- Joined
- Mar 10, 2015
- Messages
- 248
Looks great. Hard to get set up and take the first cut when you think about the value of the workpiece.
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My first real milling project - comments? - 1911 slide mod.
- Thread starter jmx66
- Start date
400 rpm.
Very slow hand feed while I stared at the DRO as it ticked down to zero.
Thanks Rick.
I'm confused by your recommendation of HSS and 2 flute for hard stainless.
I thought carbide 6+ flute was the way to go?
I was taking a few thousandths per pass and going slow so I didn't overshoot my stop point.
When your end point has to be exact, to the thousandth, how do you feed fast (short of a CNC conversion
)
I'm confused by your recommendation of HSS and 2 flute for hard stainless.
I thought carbide 6+ flute was the way to go?
I was taking a few thousandths per pass and going slow so I didn't overshoot my stop point.
When your end point has to be exact, to the thousandth, how do you feed fast (short of a CNC conversion
)the bigger the chip, the heat is removed in the chip. 6 flutes creates a lot of rubbing heat on slow feeds.
use a hard stop to mill to rather than trying to feed to number.
most mills are equipped with a adjustable hard stop or rig one.
use a hard stop to mill to rather than trying to feed to number.
most mills are equipped with a adjustable hard stop or rig one.
front of table shoud have t slot. in middle will be a stop finger(unless removed for dro) sliding button in t slot. adj to limit table travel. RTM should explain/show.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0ahUKEwjqp9mBqejUAhWd2YMKHfOaA6YQFggoMAA&url=http://www.truetex.com/bridgeport-manual.pdf&usg=AFQjCNHvP2Jk_bpu5-v7ssg4PGLg9S2WHg&cad=rja
page 20 on pdf Look for dead stops
SuperMax PDF Page 56 pdf
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...01.pdf&usg=AFQjCNEjkaF2zMNu8L7zJCcntobL9HiubQ
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0ahUKEwjqp9mBqejUAhWd2YMKHfOaA6YQFggoMAA&url=http://www.truetex.com/bridgeport-manual.pdf&usg=AFQjCNHvP2Jk_bpu5-v7ssg4PGLg9S2WHg&cad=rja
page 20 on pdf Look for dead stops
SuperMax PDF Page 56 pdf
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...01.pdf&usg=AFQjCNEjkaF2zMNu8L7zJCcntobL9HiubQ
Last edited:
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2013
- Messages
- 4,064
I had a older version PM25 mill which was basically your mill with a different paint job.
I agree with the above post in that I'd have never attempted a 5/8" end mill in that machine. I did a lot of machining using my PM25, but I considered 3/8" or maybe a 1/2" (depending on the material and what cut I am attempting) to be the largest end mill I would use. Larger end mills just cause too much machine flex.
Having said that, I also look at machining as the 'bulk material removal stage', to be followed up by files, sandpaper, and beadblasting or polishing as final steps to get the desired end result. On a machine this size, you are going to get flex. There's just no way of getting around it. What matters is how you deal with it to achieve your goal.
You want a real challenge? I built my first competition 1911 on a Sherline table top lathe and mill. Even made a compensator out of titanium on those machines, although that is NOT something I'd recommend tackling as a first project. What a pain in my...err...you-know-what.
Point is, you can make pretty much anything work. It's just some things are going to be harder/take more work than others on these smaller machines. Oh, and nice job on the slide.
I agree with the above post in that I'd have never attempted a 5/8" end mill in that machine. I did a lot of machining using my PM25, but I considered 3/8" or maybe a 1/2" (depending on the material and what cut I am attempting) to be the largest end mill I would use. Larger end mills just cause too much machine flex.
Having said that, I also look at machining as the 'bulk material removal stage', to be followed up by files, sandpaper, and beadblasting or polishing as final steps to get the desired end result. On a machine this size, you are going to get flex. There's just no way of getting around it. What matters is how you deal with it to achieve your goal.
You want a real challenge? I built my first competition 1911 on a Sherline table top lathe and mill.
Even made a compensator out of titanium on those machines, although that is NOT something I'd recommend tackling as a first project. What a pain in my...err...you-know-what. Point is, you can make pretty much anything work. It's just some things are going to be harder/take more work than others on these smaller machines. Oh, and nice job on the slide.
Got it. Makes sense. Unfortunately I sacrificed my hard stop rail to hold a DRO. I should move it to the back...
Thanks WR.I had a older version PM25 mill which was basically your mill with a different paint job.
I agree with the above post in that I'd have never attempted a 5/8" end mill in that machine. I did a lot of machining using my PM25, but I considered 3/8" or maybe a 1/2" (depending on the material and what cut I am attempting) to be the largest end mill I would use. Larger end mills just cause too much machine flex.
Having said that, I also look at machining as the 'bulk material removal stage', to be followed up by files, sandpaper, and beadblasting or polishing as final steps to get the desired end result. On a machine this size, you are going to get flex. There's just no way of getting around it. What matters is how you deal with it to achieve your goal.
You want a real challenge? I built my first competition 1911 on a Sherline table top lathe and mill.
Point is, you can make pretty much anything work. It's just some things are going to be harder/take more work than others on these smaller machines. Oh, and nice job on the slide.
It hadn't occurred to me that the 5/8" end mill was too big for this machine. Learning all the time.
I'm happy with the end result but it DID require hours of hand finishing. Would be nice to get a better finish right off the mill.