Mt2 - Tang Or No Tang?

Ulma Doctor said:
but i haven't attached an extension with glue, it free floats
Click to expand...

Originally I only had them free-float......but after the second or third time of forgetting it and not being able to eject them easily they got lock-tite!
Your mileage will vary with your ability to remember this little detail.
-brino
 
This thread isn't too old, so I thought I'd post something about the tailstock and a morse taper tang. I've owned a Craftsman "Commercial" 12"x36" metal lathe for over 30 years. It's been a great addition to the shop and has paid for itself many times over. At least that's what I tell my wife. My only complaint, other than I'd like to have something with a little more mass, is the occasional spinning of the arbor in the tailstock when boring. I have a selection of drills with morse taper shanks that I like to use, plus the drill chuck, but unfortunately the tailstock does not have a lock for the tang. I've decided that it's time to do something about it. It's apart, I've marked the location of the tang, etc., and now I'm trying to decide how to accomplish this. I think I have two options. One would be to drill and put a pin next to the tang. The other is to drill and tap each side for set screws. I think I like the pin option better, but thought I'd post this to hear if anyone else has come up with a better method to lock the tang, or has done one of these.
Thanks!
 
If your 2MT drill arbor is turning in the tailstock ram when drilling on the lathe then there is debris or burrs on the male taper or inside the female taper. It may be time for a thorough cleaning and honing the inside of the female taper and similar treatment to the male taper. Once cleaned, honed, and cleaned again be certain there is no oil in or on the tapers. Put the arbor in and seat it with a deft rap with a brass mallet or block of wood and small hammer. Just be sure the chuck jaws are fully retracted into the body of the chuck before hitting it. Once properly seated and pressure is applied while drilling that taper should not turn. That's the nature of the taper - the greater the drilling pressure the greater the resistance against turning.

Spiral_Chips
 
I know the tailstock taper isn't as perfect as it should be. I usually try to clean all tapers, collets, etc., before inserting. I can feel imperfections in the tailstock taper that have always been there. For the most part, spinning isn't an issue, but when it does I can envision more damage to the taper. I have a #2mt reamer and have considered cleaning it up. Maybe I'll do that first to see how things improve. I have yet to get the courage to drill and pin the ram, but I do like the idea of a pin in there.

thanks for the reply.
 
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OK Spiral_Chips, you talked me into cleaning up the taper before I get drastic and start drilling! I ran a reamer into the ram lightly just to smooth things out. I'll wait until the next need to drill to see how things work. It was an easy first pass. thanks
 
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