Mt2 - Tang Or No Tang?

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Banjo5

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Hi folks:

Happy New Year!

Would like feedback on two questions-

I'm looking to buy a keyless chuck to fit the tailstock of my Atlas 10F. I found one on e-bay, http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-32-5-8-3J...K-JT3-2MT-TANGED-TANG-ARBOR-MT2-/131609744055 , but it has a tang on the insert. I've always wondered why some inserts have a tang and some don't, and are they interchangeable? I'm guessing the purpose of the tang is to keep the insert from spinning, but which do I need - tang or no tang for my Atlas?

Second - I'm just beginning to shop for this tool. Is this one from all industrial tool supply reasonably decent quality, or is it junk? How is all industrial to deal with? I don't need a lot of extreme precision right now, but I'd rather spend the money to get good value, and something I can grow into if I need more precision to hopefully build models later. I can't see my budget going for one like an Albrecht for hobbying.

Thanks,
BANJO5
 
...as for tang vs. no-tang:

the tang is also useful to eject the arbour. On a drill press, you'd use a taper into a little window to eject it.

On my lathe tailstock I have had to machine some little plugs for the back end of some arbours in order for them to be ejected when the ram is retracted.
I try to make them a tight fit, some I lock-tite in place.

Be careful about putting one in without a plan for removal, they do tend to lock in easily.

-brino

Edit: here's a reference to removing one from a drill press, the tang is just visible thru the little spindle window.
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/article/3425/How_to_Remove_and_Reinstall_a_Drill_Press_Chuck.html
 
Last edited:
thanks BRINO.

After seeing your reply, I remembered that my drill press has a tang taper, and it looks like MT2(CRAFTSMAN, 1HP). I've got it out with the taper bar, and will try it in my ATLAS.

BANJO5
 
I have cut my tangs off my Morse taper adapters in order to get more travel from the tailstock feed. If you cut yours off, you should be careful not to cut too much as the adapter will not eject before the tailstock lead screw reaches the end of its travel. I would look at the quill position when the arbor is ejected and at how much further you retract the tailstock quill. That will tell you how much to cut off. If you do cut off too much, you can always drill and insert a button in the end of the adapter to build up the length. A drop of super glue or LocTite will be sufficient to hold the button in place.
 
you'll have more trouble ejecting short taper MT2 tooling than the long taper or tanged tooling for that matter.
when i'm using the short MT2,
like Brino & RJ, i'll add a small cylinder of brass, aluminum, or mild steel behind the tool to facilitate easy ejection- but i haven't attached an extension with glue, it free floats
 
I use the mt3 drill chuck that came with my mill for drilling in the lathe, it had an m12 drawbar thread and no tang, i use a bit too of all thread with a rough ground domed end to make it eject (after removing it the first time it got stuck) makes the ejection adjustable too. I have had the tangless drill chuck spin from time to time which is always annoying.

Stuart
 
Thanks everyone for the replies.

I tried my MT2 (with a tang) from drill press in the lathe, and it does fit. So I have something to use until I can get another one shipped. I see the tang pushing the taper out earlier than non-tang tapers, as you've all said.

BANJO 5
 
I could only find MT2 arbours with tangs and as RJSakowski said they do reduce your tailstock travel. My solution was to cut it off then drill and tap the rear of the arbour and put a grub screw in there. You can then adjust the grub screw so that your tail stock ejects the arbour exactly where you want it.

Sent from my SM-N920C using Tapatalk
 
The atlas tailstock isn't set up for a tang. You can use a tang arbor but you lose some travel. I have a couple arbors That had tangs an I cut the tang off for more travel. My drill press also has an 2mt taper and uses the tang.
 
Just a word of warning. If you cut off the tang off of a standard 2MT tanged drill chuck arbor almost flush with the small end of the taper, it should eject with the scale on the tailstock ram just under 1/2". And don't make the mistake of slapping the chuck into your drill press spindle. If you do, you will most probably spend 15 to 30 minutes trying to balance something like a 1/4" hex nut on the end of the arbor and trying to get the fid in and tight against both the nut and top of the quill slot without knocking the nut out the far side of the slot where it disappear under something on the floor.
 
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