mounting a dro on my small mill & a shameless offer

davidh

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I recently aquired a used rong fu 30 mill and felt helpless with out a dro like i had on my previously owned bridgeport. So after a little consideration, I bought a 36 inch long, DRO, mag strip type with the remote readout on ebay. . .. you know, the one for $59 delivered. I figured that i'd put that much in beer in just a few weeks so if it would work, great, if not, a great learning experience. I could not put the pictures in order with the story but. . . <o:p></o:p>
the dro showed up about 5 days after ordered, un-harmed and very well packaged. These are three sizes i have ordered.<o:p></o:p>
<v:shape id=Picture_x0020_3 style="HEIGHT: 258pt; VISIBILITY: visible; WIDTH: 450pt; mso-wrap-style: square" type="#_x0000_t75" o:spid="_x0000_i1030"><v:imagedata o:title="digital remote dro (600x344)" src="file:///C:\Users\%60\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image003.jpg"></v:imagedata></v:shape><o:p></o:p>

The mounting hardware furnished is just about the same as came with the glass scales I installed on my bridgy a few years ago. . . pretty dang universal, so i expected i’d be custom making whatever i needed for my application and i carried on. <o:p></o:p>

Kind of knowing what i was in for, i pulled out the small drills and taps and allen screw assortment and started in, drilling two holes in each end of the table,, about where I figured the scale should mount. Of course my measurments were not quite right so it ended up not quite where i wanted it, but this was a custom mount so i felt i would be re-doing stuff as i went along.<o:p></o:p>
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I sawed off the leg of the bracket. I only wanted the part with all the tapped holes in it for the fixed reader part.<o:p></o:p>
I located the scale or whatever its called is about ¼, maybe 3/8 inch below the top of the mill table and it was a little too long too so I sawed it off with a cutoff wheel. Perfect.<o:p></o:p>
I put it on the mag strip or scale and start measuring for the reader mount that needs to fix solid to the lower, not moving part of the table.<o:p></o:p>
Ok, this should not be a problem. There are already two holes for the bolts that hold the skirt that covers the “y” axis ways & screw. If i can make a bracket to use those holes, and still be at the right spacing at the back of the slider, that would be super. <o:p></o:p>
Well after some minor engineering and modification of the bracket that came with the unit, i had it. Great.

Now take it all apart and make the guard that covers the scale and slider and all, to protect it from swarf and stuff. <o:p></o:p>

The guard needed to be the first part installed as it is between the scale and bolted to the back side of the table.<o:p></o:p>
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Finding proper material is always the biggest part of a project for me. Im here in a place thats 30 miles from any kind of metal suppliers so i have salvaged and saved a bunch of “junk” as my wife calls it, over the years. I found a couple of options. Sheet aluminum from and old sign that was about ½ as long as i needed but i could make two and just butt them together, or a pc. Of galvanized sheetmetal from back side of a kitchen range that was in the scrap heap. I figured i would make both into guards and choose which one i would use after i see how they worked out. <o:p></o:p>
So i cut those to size with the plazma, used the box and pan brake and bent them into a un-equal legged channel about 1” between the legs. I think i measured ¾” to the first bend line, 1” farther to the next bend line and that left 1-3/4” for the vertical leg. the 3/4 leg would screw to the back of the table with 4 small screws.<o:p></o:p>
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First, i did the aluminum guard. I figured out that if i used two 6-32 allen screws in each of the short legs about 1” from each end, i could punch the holes for the screws first, then locate and punch a larger set of holes in the opposite or 1-1/4" outer flange so i could get a allen wrench to the mounting holes. After the punching i marked the first hole in the back of the mill table, drilled and tapped and installed the first fastener. with the first half of the guard mounted on one end and i could easily locate, drill and tap the second hole and continue with the other half of the guard and see how it came out. The top of the guard is still below the top of the table and the guard is the highest piece going on rear edge of the table. <o:p></o:p>
Ok, im done with the guard and its mounted, now lets install the magnetic strip or scale under the guard and see how.................................. crap, now its too close and the screws and slider try to occupy the same space. I screwed around with the brackets a bit and put flat head machine screws where the guard mounted to the table and now thats fine but now the end brackets are at the end of their slot and i need to space the magnetic strip / scale out just a bit more. <o:p></o:p>
Well, i made new end brackets, drilled and tap the holes for the fasteners, then i slotted these little rascals with my new mill a little longer than the orig ones. New longer slotted brackets fixed the interference. Whew.<o:p></o:p>
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I finished mounting everything, even the orig. plastic skirt that covers the ways. I have lost a little “y” travel but should be able to live with that. <o:p></o:p>
These little DRO’s don’t perform any fancy mathamatics, they just tell you where you are so you can get back to wherever that is, easily. my eyes are crappy, its always too dark, too close or too far away to see where anything is. this will relieve that issues.
It seems to be fine, works smoothly, and i was so impressed i contacted the import company and signed up to be a distributor for their products. . . .to buy quanitys at wholesale prices.
i have a galvanized metal guard for anyone that wants it to do the same conversion. Its 30+ inches long and will fit in a mailing tube im certain. Just pay the postage. <o:p></o:p>
I have my distributorship approved and i ordered a bunch of dro’s to share with anyone interested. You would need only a sheet metal guard made for it, which I could probably do or an easy piece for a local sheetmetal shop or it could even be made of thin plastic or the like. Possibly a couple end mounts like i made too. it depends on what and how you mount them.<o:p></o:p>
These are the prices of these remote reading units.<o:p></o:p>
12” long 23.00<o:p></o:p>
24” long 30.50 <o:p></o:p>
36” long 35.50


This is plus whatever it cost me to ship them to you and i have not gotten a figure yet from the usps. I should have that the first part of next week.<o:p></o:p>
These magnetic strips / scales can be cut to length without harming them and have a 60 day warranty from my supplier. Common sense would tell you they are not something to whap with a hammer or soak in liquid. <o:p></o:p>
They are soo low priced that i think everyone should have one or more. Im going to fit a couple on my 12 in craftsman lathe too if I can. My eyes are not the best anymore so the dials on the cranks are difficult to read. I will document my progress on the lathe for future inquirys. .<o:p></o:p>
I also ordered box of digital angle cubes. They are so cool. <o:p></o:p>
<v:shape id=Picture_x0020_12 style="HEIGHT: 226.5pt; VISIBILITY: visible; WIDTH: 274.5pt; mso-wrap-style: square" type="#_x0000_t75" o:spid="_x0000_i1025"><v:imagedata o:title="digital cube" src="file:///C:\Users\%60\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image011.jpg"></v:imagedata></v:shape><o:p></o:p>
<o:p>dig1 (600x800).jpgnewmill2 (2) (600x800).jpgdig2.JPGdig3.JPGdig4 (800x600).jpgdig5 (600x800).jpgdig9 (800x600).jpgdig10 (800x600).jpgdig11 (800x600).jpgdigital remote dro (600x344).jpg digital cube.jpg</o:p>
They measure angles for comparasion checking or whatever. Someone mentioned them a few months ago so i got one for myself. I use it for setting table saw / hand saw blade angles, and when i need to figure angles for locating a pc of steel in the vice of a mill. . . .or tool grinder. <o:p></o:p>
They are only $21.30, again plus postage. I know i paid $30 plus shipping for the one i bought about a year ago.

for clarity sake, the pictures are as follows. . .

1 the mag./ strip or scale
2 my new to me, mill
3 the remote reader
4 the end of the table where I drilled and tapped to mount the scale bracket
5 the partially cut off bracket for the fixed head on the scale
6 the guard laying on my table
7 the left end of the table with guard attached
8 the split in the guard. its two halves as my material was only 16" long and I needed to total 30"
9 the readout / control, just slapped on the side of the mill. mag base on it.
10 & 11 the three dro's and the angle cube I ordered

Whew, i need a beer. . . .<o:p></o:p>
Private Email me if your interested.<o:p></o:p>

dig1 (600x800).jpg dig4 (800x600).jpg dig5 (600x800).jpg dig6 (600x800).jpg dig9 (800x600).jpg dig10 (800x600).jpg dig11 (800x600).jpg digital remote dro (600x344).jpg newmill2 (2) (600x800).jpg dig2.JPG dig3.JPG dig8.JPG digital cube.jpg
 
Looks like a good deal. Have you figured out the shipping yet (to zip 06413)?

What is the actual travel of the 12" and 24" scales? I presume they're battery powered?
 
I just finished 2 of the 3 axis on my Jet mill/drill that looks very similar to yours. I'm sure they're not as accurate as glass scales but for the work I do, they are just fine. Glad I saw your thread as the mounting to the back of the table looks like the way to go. I was about to mount mine to the front.


I'd like to get with you soon about a couple DRO's and an angle cube.



In case you're not aware, USPS has a large flat rate box made for board games that may hold up to 24" at an angle. May be a good way to keep shipping down for those who don't need the 36" one.
 
Re: mounting a dro on my small mill &amp; a shameless offer

Looks like a good deal. Have you figured out the shipping yet (to zip 06413)?

What is the actual travel of the 12" and 24" scales? I presume they're battery powered?

the actual travel is the advertised length. the scales themselves are about 4" longer than the advertised length and yes they are battery powered, two large discs. I did not look but im assuming that's 3 volts or less. the shipping should be about $12 or so. if its more, I will send you a bill. if its less, I will put the difference in the package. email me @ tooldoc@cheqnetdotnet

- - - Updated - - -

I just finished 2 of the 3 axis on my Jet mill/drill that looks very similar to yours. I'm sure they're not as accurate as glass scales but for the work I do, they are just fine. Glad I saw your thread as the mounting to the back of the table looks like the way to go. I was about to mount mine to the front.


I'd like to get with you soon about a couple DRO's and an angle cube.



In case you're not aware, USPS has a large flat rate box made for board games that may hold up to 24" at an angle. May be a good way to keep shipping down for those who don't need the 36" one.

email me at address in above post. thanks.
 
I am using the Igaging units on a well worn jet 16 mill/drill. They are not the cat's meow. They are slow,so you spin the cranks at a low feed and you must stop and see where you are. The accuracy rating is on par with my 4.5HP motor rating vacuum. I'm OK with the ones I have but I knew they'd be like the ones that came on my radial arm saw.

Steve
 
steve,
thanks for sharing.
I have not noticed any speed problems with the one I have on my mill. but it was advertised somewhere, about being an improved model.
I will probably attempt to destroy a short/ least-expensive one with oil or fluid or both. that may also adress some others questions / comments.
 
I bought some iGaging scales from DavidH. I modded out my Shumatech DRO 550 for them today and they are working great, You no longer use the batteries/displays - you send 3.3V to them from the DRO. Super awesome mod for little money.
 
Boy oh boy. Every time I read posts on this subject I drool. As being lost in or still in the 50s I do
know about and understand the DRO, but still totally confused. As many people its the money my case
unrealated a new boiler for house so thats big. Second what does one do for a 10 X 52?? I only wish
X & Y. So far what I research is to be proper its in or about $1900 + or - and thats out. Its really not
the backlash issues, its old eyes. It has been said ones body changes every 7 yrs, I dont know, but I
do know yesterday customer needs inch left threads for a tractor thingy. Must have gotton the 7 yr
thing, last week 20- min./ yesterday 1.5hr, I actually had to use a Scribe to count tick marks on my
compound??? And then I see Trav A Dials going for as much as a DRO If you can find one. Anyone
have an idea for my case before the jobs start comming. We had no spring here no global warming,
still in the 50s which means things arent breaking down yet. So It would be so nice to, like see a
nice TV screen DRO. I have been toying with a brass washer/ 3 pulleys with a string and 2 weights
hanging down off right side held on with magnets. The washer has a pointer. I move the table
and the washer revolves. I mark the washer (sharpie) I zero the dial then move table back -there
goes the backlash, then I went back watching my sharpie mark to the pointer and my dial went to a
perfect zero. Maybe I dont need a dro maybe just perfect this cave man trav a dial.
Im always dreaming aint I. "dreams and a pile of junk" equals light bulb.
 
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