[Newbie] Motor mounting? Jackshaft?

Thanks for the stuff, and yes I have gleaned that eventually I'll need a more robust machine. Any suggestions as to what make and model? 110v is one definate requirement.
 
From lowest cost to highest:
1) Atlas/Craftsman 6" or 10" or 12"
2) South Bend 9" or 10" or 13"
3) Logan 10" or 11" or 12"
Those are all good hobby lathes
Lots of folks like the mini lathes too but the quality can vary a lot
 
Last edited:
markba633csi said:
From lowest cost to highest:
1) Atlas/Craftsman 6" or 10" or 12"
2) South Bend 9" or 10" or 13"
3) Logan 10" or 11" or 12"
Those are all good hobby lathes
Click to expand...
Logans are more expensive than SB? Is that because they are rarer? It's not based on quality is it?
 
Actually Logan and SB are about equal, but SB is a bit more common so I put it in the middle
Also, Logans have the advantage of fully roller bearing spindles so I rate them a bit higher
 
markba633csi said:
Actually Logan and SB are about equal, but SB is a bit more common so I put it in the middle
Also, Logans have the advantage of fully roller bearing spindles so I rate them a bit higher
Click to expand...
btw, roller bearing doesn't mean a better spindle. rollers are noisy (vibration) compared to a plain bearing.
But rollers won't wear as much as a plain bearing and need adjustments..
 
@Bone Head , knowing what you do and your tolerance for bs I have a specific suggestion.
Aside from budget restrictions I think you are looking for a Quick Change Gear Box.
There are plenty of threading jobs in your life. I'm sure they can be done with change gears but...
At least a 12" so you can use the centers to hang wheels (Crankshaft for the rest of you) with room to spare.
It's never so true that you can always make small parts on a bigger lathe but you can't make larger parts on a small lathe.
In any case skip the 6" no matter how "cute" . 9" with gearbox are scarce. 10's with and without gearbox. With 12" you usually have at least the option of a gearbox and power cross feed.

There's more but I think you get the idea. Set a foot print, function, and dollar budget. Be patient but ready to move instantly when the deal arrives.

The one thing we all will warn you about. Once the lathe arrives and it's presence has caused a bit of musical chairs in the shop you're only getting started. Just the tooling I have for the 6" cost far more than the lathe. Some here have kept track and estimate that the tooling may be twice what the cost of the lathe was. There is one small bit of relief here. For those of us that have mills or access to them have made a lot of our tooling. We're not going to be building chucks and collets (well, emergency collets but that's in the advanced course) but tool holders and other accessories can be made on the lathe or mill. A quick note on milling attachments for the lathe. It's a bit of a bodge as the brits say . More like a kludge or a half way measure that just doesn't get it done. I mean, they work, but in such a limited sense that I wonder why I have one. Oh, right , I didn't have a mill at the time and needed some key way slots ....
 
Not familiar with that machine but that pin next to the chuck might be a bull gear lock pin. If there's also a back gear the lock pin cannot be in the locked position with the back gear engaged or it will lock the machine. Whenever playing with a new toy turn the chuck by hand before hitting the power button just as a precaution until you learn all the particulars of that machine. Have FUN!
 
No jackshaft. The spindle speeds tend to be on the fast side, since you won't be turning large stock.
 
Thank you for the wisdom. and
kopcicle said:
@Bone Head , knowing what you do and your tolerance for bs I have a specific suggestion.
Aside from budget restrictions I think you are looking for a Quick Change Gear Box.
There are plenty of threading jobs in your life. I'm sure they can be done with change gears but...
At least a 12" so you can use the centers to hang wheels (Crankshaft for the rest of you) with room to spare.
It's never so true that you can always make small parts on a bigger lathe but you can't make larger parts on a small lathe.
In any case skip the 6" no matter how "cute" . 9" with gearbox are scarce. 10's with and without gearbox. With 12" you usually have at least the option of a gearbox and power cross feed.

There's more but I think you get the idea. Set a foot print, function, and dollar budget. Be patient but ready to move instantly when the deal arrives.

The one thing we all will warn you about. Once the lathe arrives and it's presence has caused a bit of musical chairs in the shop you're only getting started. Just the tooling I have for the 6" cost far more than the lathe. Some here have kept track and estimate that the tooling may be twice what the cost of the lathe was. There is one small bit of relief here. For those of us that have mills or access to them have made a lot of our tooling. We're not going to be building chucks and collets (well, emergency collets but that's in the advanced course) but tool holders and other accessories can be made on the lathe or mill. A quick note on milling attachments for the lathe. It's a bit of a bodge as the brits say . More like a kludge or a half way measure that just doesn't get it done. I mean, they work, but in such a limited sense that I wonder why I have one. Oh, right , I didn't have a mill at the time and needed some key way slots ....
Click to expand...
Yeah, toys need toys. I've read some about the milling attachment. If I'm going to spend to do some milling I'd go blg. Tor some reason Bridgeports pop up on C/L on a more or less yearly basis around here.
As far as expense not going to stress about it. Ever see a hearse with a luggage rack?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top