Making New SB Heavy 10 L front Bearing

[StepSide 88]

CE3458 form 909-E pg 16 Item #82 no part number.
I saw one on e... and thought I'd ask for spec's but I need to get a larger mic. My 1" won't do.
Looking for photos for comparisons is even challenging but my reasoning has progressed to 'they are the same.'
They changed the bearing housing as the easiest part to change at the drop of a hat... Or bombs.
They show 3 different spindles so I'm thinking you could upgrade to the 4D1 or Taper key size00 from the base model.
If I'm understanding the layout of the part book correctly.
The main Head stock base model shows everything, the D1 & 00 pages just show the spindle and parts.

So the next question is how does one fit a different spindle to CI bearings? And if doable, is now the time to upgrade too a D1?

 

[StepSide 88]

Found that heavy 10 R & L Spindles are interchangeable.
Ordered an L off e...
Bigger better and badder .

 

[benmychree]

View attachment 234532

From what I saw of the 'epoxy putty' tests and other Info this is exactly the type of application they developed that stuff for, repairing shafts running in a bearing.
I just found out about it yesterday so more investigations are coming.
It turns up on PM searches and goes back years in use from what I've seen so far.

Mine as is won't fly far unless someone can convince me those are all just oil pockets...

The cure for what I see in the picture, which looks awful, would be to have the spindle cylindrically ground undersize and subsequent hard chrome and finish grinding to size; I did the job on a 1920s 10" South Bend lathe years ago and made a new split bearing for the chuck end and was able to re use the back end bearing after the chrome job on both ends. The spindles in these early machines seem to be quite soft and wear excessively; the job make a good lathe of it.
To make the split bearing, I turned 660 bearing bronze to rough dimension, split it with a slitting saw in the mill, then soft soldered the halves together and bored them to size, then put them on a mandrel and finished the OD dimensions. One departure from original that I did was to turn a recess around the fit in the headstock to match the oil hole and then milled a slot through the bottom half of the bearing and inserted a felt wick into it; the recess served as an oil reservoir and the felt metered and filtered the oil; this worked well.

 

[StepSide 88]

Cool.
But it's not a split bearing lathe.
I haven't seen where anybody has done anything like that for a Cast Iron bearing so I went for replacing the spindle with one from epay. The selling party misrepresented the item... so it's not an L but rather an R but it will work just fine.

 

[woodtickgreg]

Only thing with an R is a smaller bore diameter if I remember correctly.

 

[StepSide 88]

Only thing with an R is a smaller bore diameter if I remember correctly.

Thats what I understood too.
Just exactly how that worked still messes with my mind cause I don't see how that possibly could. The L bore would seemingly make the bearing surface to large...
But its not a L so I'm not going to sweat it.

 

[bobl]

Gents,

After a couple of weeks of fruitless searching, and finding only used and questionable
bronze bearings for my Heavy 10, and since SB/Grizzly is out of them,
I am going to have to make my own.

I plan to start with some 600 series bronze sleeve bearings, and then bore them in a
support sleeve in the 4-jaw. Then I will have to hone them on the Sunnen machine to
final dimension. Then on a long expanding collett, turn the OD to size.
Finally I will have to split the bearing (done in the chuck sleeve from the first step)
and then mill the dovetail for the key. Oil holes will be installed with an end mill.

Concentricity, ID dimension, and parallelism are the issues here.

Any suggestions? Experience? The bearings are cylindrical, not cam ground like a piston ring.


If there is any interest, i will photo document the project and the results.

Facing some interesting work,

Phil L

Post me to


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[bobl]

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I'm interested do you need to hone can you not grind with stool post grinder


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[woodtickgreg]

I'm interested do you need to hone can you not grind with stool post grinder


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I honed mine because they had some galling and scoring that I did not like, then I sanded them with 600 grit and oil, and then buffed them for a polish. I can give it a spin by hand with the belt disengaged and it will spin about 2 turns. It dialed right in when I set the clearance with a lift test and doesn't even get warm after long turning sessions. You have to think of these bearings like the main crankshaft bearings in a car engine, they function basically the same. You want them as smooth and uniform as can be for less friction and so the parts are separated by the film of oil. Did I go to far polishing mine? I don't think so, it works flawlessly.