Making New SB Heavy 10 L front Bearing

I got to talking with a friend showing him where the bushing would go and realized there's no room for anything close to a bushing. The bearing cap is snug against the spindle.
Caps are segmented the spindle is pitted looking.
So what type of bearing setup do I have?
 
It sounds like you have a older lathe with the headstock using cast iron bearing surfaces. Pics would help.
 
StepSide does your headstock look like this? It's the cast iron bearing version.
Supposedly it's very durable from what I've read on other forumscisbhead.jpg
 
Gents,

After a couple of weeks of fruitless searching, and finding only used and questionable
bronze bearings for my Heavy 10, and since SB/Grizzly is out of them,
I am going to have to make my own.

I plan to start with some 600 series bronze sleeve bearings, and then bore them in a
support sleeve in the 4-jaw. Then I will have to hone them on the Sunnen machine to
final dimension. Then on a long expanding collett, turn the OD to size.
Finally I will have to split the bearing (done in the chuck sleeve from the first step)
and then mill the dovetail for the key. Oil holes will be installed with an end mill.

Concentricity, ID dimension, and parallelism are the issues here.

Any suggestions? Experience? The bearings are cylindrical, not cam ground like a piston ring.


If there is any interest, i will photo document the project and the results.

Facing some interesting work,

Phil L

Kind of strange to see an old thread. I will make a suggestion that might irk some people because the books I am going to reference , but it is the principle behind the suggestion that is needed.

For those not familiar, a man named David Gingery put out a series of books about building lathes, shapers, mills, etc., using aluminum, wood patterns, and a forge. The lathe book, when doing the headstock and in order to get that center axis parallel to the bed ways, actually talks about using a temporary headstock. Now, a guy on YouTube (makercise) did the lathe build, and in parts 4, 5, and 6, he does the headstock.


For those of you cringing, the underlying principle is to cut the bronze outer diameters, get a second headstock, and use the second headstock to bore the first and keep it long and parallel to the bed ways. For accuracy, it is the best method for a specific lathe and headstock.
 
Those should be serviceable, pull the spindle and polish , maybe fine scotchbright
How many shims were in there ?
While your at it replacing the spindle oil wicks would be a good idea.
What problem is the spindle giving you.
 
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Those should be serviceable, pull the spindle and polish , maybe fine scotchbright
How many shims were in there ?
While your at it replacing the spindle oil wicks would be a good idea.
What problem is the spindle giving you.

1942 South Bend Heavy 10- Barnyard rebirth
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/1942-south-bend-heavy-10-barnyard-rebirth.58516/#post-481738
This should answer your questions.
I'm just making sure I have a reasonable destination...
Before I invest more than the soap and electricity for RE into it.
So far so good it seems.
 
Those should be serviceable, pull the spindle and polish , maybe fine scotchbright
How many shims were in there ?
While your at it replacing the spindle oil wicks would be a good idea.
What problem is the spindle giving you.
I agree, I was wondering where the shims where as well, if any. Yup, polish that spindle up and get it set to spec with a lift test. Probably outlast us all!
 
Make chips, see what happens
Soap , destination ?
 
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