Magnetic Chuck Table

Just to add a bit... most magnetic chucks have plates that slide up and down on one end and one side. You lightly grind the side plate so it is true to the travel, and place the work against it it make sure it is straight. You slide the end plate up enough to hold the work, but not stick above the surface to be machined. This serves as an absolute stop. If you need to, stack other objects up to the end plate and then place the work against them. Another thing to keep in mind is that thin parts do not hold well to begin with. The work is held best when it is as least as thick as the magnetic field, which is approximately the size of the gap between poles. So a chuck with finer poles spacing is far better for thin things. Dennis
 
repeatability could be a plus as a flick of the handle releases the part.
the swarf sticking might be a pain in the axe .
would there be an advantage to using magnets on top of the table as stop blocks and would north-south poles need to be aligned ?
thanks for the replies so far, they have been helpfull.
Dan
 
oldboy1950 said:
would there be an advantage to using magnets on top of the table as stop blocks and would north-south poles need to be aligned ?
Click to expand...

Maybe, I've never tried it. And yes they would need to be aligned. I really don't think it would give you a choice, they would align when you turned on the magnet rather violently I would guess. Now I'm gonna have to try that.;) Hold my beer and watch this:grin:
 
I held the beer and tried it. At least the part was small and didn't put a very big dent in the wall.
Only beer lost was what ran down my leg.
Thanks ron
 
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