I have an Oregon chain saw sharpener (picture below). I've read on arborist type forums that factory and hand sharpened chains last the longest, but once sharpened with a machine, the chain will dull more quickly. Having used this grinder, I've noticed that the heat generated sometimes turns the tips of a tooth blue, indicating that I'm ruining the hardness of the tooth.
A note about sharpening. I try to take off as little metal as possible, but especially with older chains that have been hand filed, the tooth length can vary. It is sometimes necessary to take off more metal from some teeth than others, despite my efforts to remove the least metal possible. Restoring the tooth profile with the grinder also can require removing somewhat more metal than a chain in good condition. The chain's teeth are not very thick - there is not a lot of metal to dissipate heat in any one tooth so it is also possible that using this type of grinder will soften all the teeth that are not bathed in cooling cutting fluid.
I've tried squirting WD40 onto the tooth as the grinding wheel hits it in an effort to keep the temp down, but this is unsatisfactory. I've thought about a flooded lubricant system, in which a small pump bathes the tooth being sharpened in cutting fluid - like some guys have set up for their mills.
What kind of basin can I use to collect and channel the cutting fluid into a reservoir so that it can be recirculated by a small pump? I have to be able to bolt the chain saw sharpener down for stability, and I don't want leaks around bolt holes. Note that the sharpener has a small footprint and must be bolted down. I have it mounted on an old grinder stand. I'll have to mount it on either a block or otherwise elevate it above the floor of the basin. The big red knob under the chain guide/vise loosens the vise to change the grinding angle for the other half of the teeth on the chain.
Is this even a good idea or am I nuts to consider this?
A note about sharpening. I try to take off as little metal as possible, but especially with older chains that have been hand filed, the tooth length can vary. It is sometimes necessary to take off more metal from some teeth than others, despite my efforts to remove the least metal possible. Restoring the tooth profile with the grinder also can require removing somewhat more metal than a chain in good condition. The chain's teeth are not very thick - there is not a lot of metal to dissipate heat in any one tooth so it is also possible that using this type of grinder will soften all the teeth that are not bathed in cooling cutting fluid.
I've tried squirting WD40 onto the tooth as the grinding wheel hits it in an effort to keep the temp down, but this is unsatisfactory. I've thought about a flooded lubricant system, in which a small pump bathes the tooth being sharpened in cutting fluid - like some guys have set up for their mills.
What kind of basin can I use to collect and channel the cutting fluid into a reservoir so that it can be recirculated by a small pump? I have to be able to bolt the chain saw sharpener down for stability, and I don't want leaks around bolt holes. Note that the sharpener has a small footprint and must be bolted down. I have it mounted on an old grinder stand. I'll have to mount it on either a block or otherwise elevate it above the floor of the basin. The big red knob under the chain guide/vise loosens the vise to change the grinding angle for the other half of the teeth on the chain.
Is this even a good idea or am I nuts to consider this?