Looking to get a 3D printer soon.

I had to delay the shipment from Prusa for a little bit, but we are now back on schedule. Was out of town, visiting my youngest daughter who just received a diamond ring. Was a great weekend.

DHL tells me the printer will be delivered this Thursday. Can't wait! I got the kit, so will have to assemble it. Should be a fun couple of days.
 
Our daughter was married this weekend. Buying an entire fleet of printers would have been less costly. :)

But it was a great weekend as well.

I've resumed work on a Railcore kit that stalled 3 years ago. It is larger and faster than the Prusa MK3 but it makes me appreciate how quiet, compact and light (and simple to assemble) the Prusa is. And going from 220mm to 300mm really makes the printer larger.

Was just thinking about tools to make the assembly job go easier. A flat surface helps to align the frame. I use a Marble round from and old end table, my surface plate is too small. Ball end metric hex wrenches in the smaller sizes. A 7mm socket wrench for the hot nozzle tightening, and something to grab the heater block to protect the thin walled heat break. I ended up getting a nozzle torque wrench from Slice Engineering. Over or under torquing the nozzle is not something one wants to do. 90%+ isopropyl alcohol. A roll of blue shop towels, less linty than paper towels. A couple of spare nozzles and a spare heat break and some tools to clean them like 0.40mm needles. A silicone heater block sock or two. A few rolls of PLA in various colors for making fun items. A roll of PETG and TPU for experimenting for higher temperature and flexible materials. A hardened steel nozzle if any abrasive material printing is planned. They will provide a glue stick but I prefer Aquanet unscented extra hold for extra build plate adhesion and to protect the surface against over-adhesion from PETG and TPU. A spare spring steel build plate. As I recall you have some or most of this already, but this may be useful for others reading along.

A useful optional item is a Raspberry Pi for Octoprint (free software). Most any will do but an old Pi3 is adequate, or one of the smaller memory (1-2 GB) Pi4's is fine and those are occasionally available at regular list price from dealers, or perhaps recover one from an old Pi project. You can set it up to start a print from your computer with a click in the slicer, no dealing with moving an SD card back and forth and scrolling through lists of files on the LCD display. The Pi connects to the printer with a USB cable and puts it on the network. You can optionally add an inexpensive Pi or USB camera and check up on printing progress from your computer or phone.
 
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I have had my 3D printer for about 7 years now. I honestly don't get the octoprint train of thought.

Dumping my file on a SD card and walking across to the printer is really not all that painful. Plus when the print starts I like to be there to watch it and make any micro adjustments to the first layer (through the the baby steps menu). So I am going to be standing infront of it anyway. And print times are so long that the 15s you save by direct printing means nothing on a 4 hour long print.

From my experience rather take the money you would spend on a pi and spend that on a 24v heating bed. Or on a 24v power supply and hook that up to your 12v heating bed. That was a really worthwhile upgrade for me!

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Pi4's is fine and those are occasionally available at regular list price from dealers
Raspberry Pi's are essentially not available. One of my friends just bought RPi 3 for $130, which was the cheapest one he could find. I purchased an Orange Pi 3 LTS for $45 a few weeks ago that I will be utilizing in a Voron build that I am going to start.

Dumping my file on a SD card and walking across to the printer is really not all that painful. Plus when the print starts I like to be there to watch it and make any micro adjustments to the first layer (through the the baby steps menu). So I am going to be standing infront of it anyway. And print times are so long that the 15s you save by direct printing means nothing on a 4 hour long print.

I have had my Prusa for 5 years and the SD card slot is worn out. The bigger draw for the RPi and Octoprint add-on is the ability to monitor a print remotely. To be able to stop a print remotely if it starts to fail is a big deal, especially when it is a large print and there is a risk of completely covering your hot end with melted plastic.
 
I have a spare RPI3 that's already been flashed to octoprint. Over the years I had bought a few RPI's as they came out, so I have a couple of them not in dedicated use. All were bought at ordinary, pre-panic pricing so I can't complain. Found an old USB webcam that was laying around and got it to work without any trouble.

Connectors have a finite life. They are rated for so many cycles. Typically they are not easy to replace or are hard to find with the same form factor. I don't mind using an otherwise unused older RPI3 to prolong the life of my printer. If I didn't have any spare PI'S I'd look for an alternative, even an ESP32 controller. They seem to be available, or maybe a Pico W. But either would be a project just in itself, unless you can find someone else's git project, where it was all figured out.
 
DHL tells me the printer will be delivered this Thursday. Can't wait! I got the kit, so will have to assemble it. Should be a fun couple of days.
Keep us update on your progress as you get it set up. Getting a 3-D printer is on my wish list. I'm pretty backed up with projects so it isn't happening soon, but I'm watching here for hints and ideas.
 
Whatever suits your work style is good. My experience is that the people who are fine with the SD card are those who have never had a good network interface, rarely do folks go back to SD after working with a networked printer. Does one use an SD card with their laser or inkjet printer?

My MK3 is so reliable I never baby step the first layer. Other than once after installing a new nozzle or doing alignment after mechanical work. After that it just prints every time. I do need to make sure the printer is clear and the filament loaded, then I can go fiddle with the slicer and send a print with a click, whether from the same room or from another room. I often start several prints a day, fiddling with the SD card just wastes time and energy for no useful purpose. I start prints from two different computers depending on where I'm working from. Prints take from 30 minutes to 9 hours generally for most of what I print. Once a print is started I occasionally check on progress, either with the camera or just by checking the progress info in Octoprint. Then I know whether I need to go in and remove the print and prepare for the next one. My printer is already 24V and has a heated bed that heats adequately fast, but if other upgrades are more useful clearly do those first. One should check on the printer during the first layer until it proves to be reliable, but the camera allows that to be done remotely. Most any old USB webcam will work fine. One can often buy USB laptop cameras without housings for $20 or less.

Raspberry Pi's are trickling out all the time, they make about 100,000 units per week. I have purchased several at list price in the last few months. If you have an old Pi around it is probably adequate. You can borrow a Pi from an old project and replace it later, use a new SD card and keep the old one for restoring. Big Tree Tech has a Pi replacement CM4 type board that some are using, the CB-1, and a carrier to make it like a standard Pi3. The Pi CM4 boards are more available than regular Pi's and can be used in a carrier or directly in some of the newer control boards like the Manta (for Klipper setups). Several batches of Pi boards were sold this morning at list price from a dealer in Germany. I generally wait for a US supplier and there are at 3-4 that have some boards each week or two. They sell out in 20 minutes so one has to prepare and react, but they are trickling out and the prices are only a little higher than before, usually around $40-50 for the smaller memory models which are fine for Octoprint.

Some people run Octoprint on an old computer, perhaps an old laptop that is not used anymore. It will run on most operating systems. One of the small computers will run it fine, and can drive more than one printer. Those little "mini" machines that are often used in businesses and sold cheaper than scalped Raspberry Pi's on the used market are popular. The Pi Zero 2 W at $15 is excellent, but those are not very easy to find. It's basically a Pi 3 on a half size board, so it can be put right on the printer. A $10 Pi Zero W works too but don't put a camera on that one.

Octoprint requires an operating system like Linux or Windows so not suitable for an ESP32 or a Pico. The pre-built systems including Octoprint and Linux are available for the Pi so those are far and away the easiest to install.
 
Raspberry Pi's are essentially not available.
rpilocator.com lists places that have them available on a day-by-day basis. My understanding is they sell out in a few hours. Apparently Raspberry Pi is releasing a few, round-robbin, to hobbiest channels on limited allotment, but they are prioritizing their commercial customers. So yes, essentially not available, but it is possible to get them with determination.
 
Connectors have a finite life. They are rated for so many cycles. .

Of all the reasons to switch to octoprint I think that would be the least significant . Most SD card sockets are rated for 10 000 inserts. That would mean you would get 5 000 prints out of it. At an average print of 2 hours that would mean nearly a year and a half of continuous printing. I think a lot more would fail than your SD card reader at that point.



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Of all the reasons to switch to octoprint I think that would be the least significant . Most SD card sockets are rated for 10 000 inserts. That would mean you would get 5 000 prints out of it. At an average print of 2 hours that would mean nearly a year and a half of continuous printing. I think a lot more would fail than your SD card reader at that point.



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Perhaps.

Of course, you are talking about "real authentic" SD card sockets. Guarantee you that a lot of these sockets are neither real nor authentic. Counterfeit goods typically have a lot shorter lifetimes. And counterfeit goods sneak into the supply chain all the time. Generally speaking, it is not good to rely on connecting and disconnecting connectors often. Cables and connectors are usually the "things that go bad".
 
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