Logan bearings

Re: Logan Bearingsd

Thanks Blue Chip.
My Ward/Logan 10" has a New Departure #77506 bearing in the left side of the headstock spindle. I think it has gone dry. There are no spacers or compression washers to provide load on this side. The bearing is 1 1/2 inch inner diameter and a single ball race. The part number on the bearing is the same as in the Logan parts list. So I assume it is a special made for Logan or at least part # stamped for Logan.
New Departure merged with Hyatt in the 80's and are now a division of GM. I would guess that the same bearing is made by several Mfgr's and marketed under various numbers.
For me, I am going to try to shoot some grease or oil into the bearing by drilling a small hole on the race shield. I have nothing to loose and the spindle seems tight and smooth. If I can't get a good finish on my work then I will tear down the headstock and replace the bearings.
Much of my noise at high speed was caused by misalignment of the motor/counter-shaft assembly. The belt outside was rubbing on the assembly's casting. The motor V belt was also slipping as a result.
But when I spin the spindle by hand with no load I can hear the bearings and it sounds like they are dry?
I was going to add a photo but do not know how to.
 
Thanks for the info; Blue Chips. My problem is several fold. The drive assembly belt set up instructions are wrong in the Logan manual. They have the small motor pulley with large jack-shaft pulley reversed with the large motor and smaller jack-shaft pulleys. I was running the spindle at 1200 RPM and not 375 which I wanted. The belt must be the wrong one as there is just not enough adjustment by moving the base of the jack-shaft assembly away from the spindle to get the belt to stop rubbing on the frame. My Logan manual says this lathe, a 10" with legs, uses a 39" belt. The belt I got is 46 1/2" long. 39", as measured with a made up rope belt is far too short, unless the tension adjustment has been fouled up. It looks like this is what the case is as the adjustment turnbuckle has been welded.
Meanwhile, I placed a felt spacer soaked with turbine bearing oil, in the space behind the dust cap next to the bearing. I'll see how this works out until I get the drive assembly problem worked out.

Thanks for the bearing info. It looks like I'll be needing it.

Aub
 
Thanks for all the bearing info, which will be useful when I decide what, if anything, to do about the slightly noisy bearings in my 955. I ordered a manual and belt from Scott recently and am happy with what I got. My old belt was 55" and I never would have dared buy the 53 1/2" belt on Scott's list but it turned out to be exactly right when I ran the adjusting nut all the way in. As a bonus, the detent now works, that holds the jackshaft up when moving the belt on the pulleys.
 
I bought everything from Scott. They are proud of their stuff for sure. He was always there for me through out the 32 years of ownership. I figured I would help support them to stay in business. Look at how much support he is still giving to all who have a Logan that was originally sold so many many years ago. I know it hurts with EBay and all. I paid nearly $1000 for my collet closer form Scott 15 years ago and now I see them on EBay going for a couple of hundred. OUCH!
Keep up the good support Scott.
 
So... has anybody found an after market bearing for the chuck side? If so I need this number. Thanks!
 
You could try soaking the bearings in pine-sol and regreasing them before going to the expense of replacing them. I've done this with bearings that I thought were beyond saving with great results. I've tried all the usual solvents without much success. The pine-sol was recommended on Scott's site. It just melts the old grease so it can be rinsed out with a stream of hot water. The only downside is that I had to take the seals off to get them thoroughly clean. I used mobil electric motor grease to repack them. They suggest filling them 1/3 full. I went about 1/2 full and didn't notice them heating up. The front bearing is covered on both ends when the spindle is in the machine, so I wasn't concerned about chips getting to the bearing. The rear bearing on some models also has shields that press into the bore on both sides to keep the chips away from the bearing. The rear bearing isn't anything special anyway and could be replaced inexpensively. Good luck.
 
My bearings in my 820 sounded horrible, and would not "roll" very easy.
I got a strainer, and turkey baister from Walmart and used on old 1 gallon plastic container. And bought one gallon of Kerosene.
Filled the baister , laid the bearing in the strainer and applied the kerosene thru the bearing, did this for quite a while.
After about 25 minutes of doing this, the bearing moved freely and was nearly spotless.
Bought a cheap bearing greaser from Harbor Freight and blew the kero out, used alcohol to remove all the Kero I could and re-greased the bearing.

Perfect.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top