Lodge and Shipley 16"x8' Model X Lathe

[4GSR]

That looks like straight sided splines used there. If so, that'll make that gear a little easier to make from a stock gear. I started to say something about the gear teeth need to be harden. What you are seeing on that gear is probably the results from flame hardening of the gear teeth. Not saying you have to do the same, but I would recommend some kind of surface hardening of the gear teeth. The stock gears, I believe are made from a medium carbon steel, which is not bad, but it's not 4140 steel. It should respond to flame hardening or even case carburizing.

 

[Brain Coral]

Hi Ken,

You are spot on about the splines being straight sided. I hadn't noticed that until you pointed it out. Maybe I just might be able to bore and key a new gear, instead of trying to turn the original for a ring gear fit. That would take some finicky work to do it. I do have a dividing head with tail stock. I suppose that I could make a broaching plug with six grooves in it.

The last time that I bought four stock gears from Boston Gear, the teeth were hardened already. I had to use carbide to face them.

Brian

 

[4GSR]

My dad used to make a sleeve for one of his customers years ago. It was a 6 splines with straight sided keyways. He made a broach sleeve with a indexing pin that would allow him to index over exactly 60 degrees for each keyway. Took a while to broach six keyways, it did work. In your case, you could probably cut two gears at one time provided the splines are the same. Just a thought.

 

[Brain Coral]

Hello all,

I am back with a bit of an update. After spending a couple of hours, fishing for the lost teeth in the bottom of the head stock, and painstakingly gluing them back on to the bare gear, one by one, I was able to get some accurate measurements on the gears. Oddly enough, this gear was easier to measure than the other one, as it has a bunch of bent over teeth. Both gears are exactly the same, with a 10 Diametral Pitch, and 32 teeth.








So, I went down to my local bearing supplier and ordered two heat treated gears, as well as a few bearings, lock washers and lock nuts. I should have the parts in a week. The gears are coming from Martin Sproket and Gear. The difference between not having them heat treated and having them heat treated was $120.00 CAD to $160.00 CAD each.

I then explored the cluster gear, to see if it could be pressed apart, as there seemed to be a key present, and looked like a parting line.



Sure enough, it pressed off no problem. This particular gear will be a much easier fix than the other one.



Brian

 

[Brain Coral]

Well, I am back with a little update on the repair of the gears...

I picked up the parts that I had ordered from my bearing supplier. This little pile cost me over $500.00 CAD... and I'm not done yet....



I made a mandrel to hold the "toothless" gear, in order to try and turn it down, for a "ring" gear. It was very hard, with sparks flying and the carbide tip breaking down. So, I turned the angle of the toolbit and took a much deeper cut, with a slower feed rate, and was successful in getting underneath the hardest part.



After that, I took .030" DOC for each pass, at 1200 RPM and a feed rate of .008" PR and had good success, although the chips were a little stringy.



Here's the finished gear blank...



And here is the chunk of aluminium that I will make a "pot" chuck out of, to machine the new gears...



I have a 1 3/4" annular cutter on order, which I will use in the mill, to remove 90% of the bore of the new gears, before I mount them in the pot chuck and machine them to size.

Brian

 

[Brain Coral]

Hello all,

My annular cutter arrived the other day, so it looks like I have no more excuses for not getting the gear repairs completed...



I did some further checking on the sliding gear shaft, to ensure that it wasn't bent from the crash.



That's all for now...

Brian

 

[Brain Coral]

I am finally back, with an update...

I ended up making two pot chucks out of that piece of aluminium. One for the lathe, and one for the mill.

I first bandsawed off the bosses of both gears..

Then, I mounted the gears in the mill, and used the annular cutter to remove the majority of the bore, leaving approximately .250" to finish...

Now, back to the lathe, to complete the bore....

 

[Ray C]

I am finally back, with an update...

I ended up making two pot chucks out of that piece of aluminium. One for the lathe, and one for the mill.

I first bandsawed off the bosses of both gears...

View attachment 265822

Then, I mounted the gears in the mill, and used the annular cutter to remove the majority of the bore, leaving approximately .250" to finish...

View attachment 265822View attachment 265823

View attachment 265822View attachment 265823View attachment 265824

Now, back to the lathe, to complete the bore....

View attachment 265822View attachment 265823View attachment 265824View attachment 265825View attachment 265826

Brian,

Ouch... We can't see your last batch of photos. BTW: Glad you're back. I'm loving your "Big Lathe" project.

Ray

 

[Brain Coral]

Then, it was back to the mill, to face the thickness down, to avoid the large interrupted cut of the hardened teeth in my rather small lathe. I could have done this operation, while I still had it in the mill for the annular cutter operation. This milling took many passes to complete, and I was glad for power feeds and rapid traverse on the mill.

Now, back to the lathe to complete the facing cuts. I had approximately .016" to remove, to match the original gear, so I took .008" of each face, using light .002" cuts per pass. Tips of the teeth were lightly chamfered, burs stoned, bore edge chamfered, and then it was ready to press onto the boss.

I cleaned both parts carefully with brake cleaner, applied the Loctite # 609 Retaining Compound to both surfaces and pressed it home.

 

[Brain Coral]

"Brian,

Ouch... We can't see your last batch of photos. BTW: Glad you're back. I'm loving your "Big Lathe" project.

Ray "

Should be good now...