Lining newly built machinist chest. options? would like felt...but....corrosion and bottom thickness?

[f350ca]

I used craft felt from a fabric store, assume it's synthetic by the price. Looking at the photos I see it's just shy of 7 years old. No indication of corrosion but the shop is heated. Used 1/2 baltic birch for the drawers and I think 1/8 plywood for the bottoms but they're tiny in comparison to what your after.
With that size of drawers I'd recommend ball bearing slides. Even then with that width to depth ratio they may want to bind if pulled from one side.


Greg

 

[Larry$]

I am using Baltic birch plywood ( offshore, rather than the real thing).If

We used to use a lot of Baltic birch plywood. It came from either Finland or Russia. I suspect the Russian stuff is no longer available. There is a domestic supplier of something similar. (Appleply?) All the thin plays make BB stronger as does the use of a hardwood. You should let the bottoms into a groove. 8mm Baltic birch is quite strong, 12mm is probably overkill. Using box joints for the sides/front back connections is strong and once setup on a table saw easy to make repetitive joints. Be sure to check square as you clamp the drawer boxes. With the drawer upside down put a bead of hot melt around the joint between the box & bottom. Hold the bottom down so the hot melt fills any void. Semi- decent Chinese ball bearing full extension, side mount drawer guides are available pretty cheap. Similar to what the metal roll-around tool cabinets use. Make a simple jig to mount them. Make a simple support jig to locate the case members while you screw them on. Accuracy is important to get a nicely working drawer. Leaving an additional 1/32" of case opening is easier than needing to shave down the drawer sides. If for some reason you end up with a bit too wide of opening just shim the guides out. I prefer hardwood drawer boxes to plywood because the groove for the drawer bottoms will be weak in plywood. Original Titebond wood glue for drawer joint assembly. Finish the drawers so they don't absorb grease & oil, just for esthetics. Never use the drawer front as the stop! A table saw is all that is needed. Do not use stapled joints! Pilot drilled for assembly screws as an easier out. Those screws have very aggressive, sharp threads with an auger tip and countersinking nibs under the head. Robertson (Sq. Drive) heads are best. Use an impact driver, NOT a drill. Ouch, a dissertation!

There are companies that specialize in making drawers if you don't feel like doing it. You can get them KD to save on shipping.

 

[maple syrup]

I used craft felt from a fabric store, assume it's synthetic by the price. Looking at the photos I see it's just shy of 7 years old. No indication of corrosion but the shop is heated. Used 1/2 baltic birch for the drawers and I think 1/8 plywood for the bottoms but they're tiny in comparison to what your after.
With that size of drawers I'd recommend ball bearing slides. Even then with that width to depth ratio they may want to bind if pulled from one side.
View attachment 473329

Greg

We used to use a lot of Baltic birch plywood. It came from either Finland or Russia. I suspect the Russian stuff is no longer available. There is a domestic supplier of something similar. (Appleply?) All the thin plays make BB stronger as does the use of a hardwood. You should let the bottoms into a groove. 8mm Baltic birch is quite strong, 12mm is probably overkill. Using box joints for the sides/front back connections is strong and once setup on a table saw easy to make repetitive joints. Be sure to check square as you clamp the drawer boxes. With the drawer upside down put a bead of hot melt around the joint between the box & bottom. Hold the bottom down so the hot melt fills any void. Semi- decent Chinese ball bearing full extension, side mount drawer guides are available pretty cheap. Similar to what the metal roll-around tool cabinets use. Make a simple jig to mount them. Make a simple support jig to locate the case members while you screw them on. Accuracy is important to get a nicely working drawer. Leaving an additional 1/32" of case opening is easier than needing to shave down the drawer sides. If for some reason you end up with a bit too wide of opening just shim the guides out. I prefer hardwood drawer boxes to plywood because the groove for the drawer bottoms will be weak in plywood. Original Titebond wood glue for drawer joint assembly. Finish the drawers so they don't absorb grease & oil, just for esthetics. Never use the drawer front as the stop! A table saw is all that is needed. Do not use stapled joints! Pilot drilled for assembly screws as an easier out. Those screws have very aggressive, sharp threads with an auger tip and countersinking nibs under the head. Robertson (Sq. Drive) heads are best. Use an impact driver, NOT a drill. Ouch, a dissertation!

There are companies that specialize in making drawers if you don't feel like doing it. You can get them KD to save on shipping.

I already bought some soft close-door slides. I like the idea of hot glue for temporary hold. one question about the bottom, the bottoms will be Baltic birch as well, the plan was 3/8" (9mm). I will create the rebate as you and many have suggested. i have a question about that. just in case my baize poses an issue and I need to replace it, might just be better off replacing the bottoms. my shop is not heated, so it's a bit more of a risk. I had to wash both baize pool table sheets in the washing machine and dried it, I may have changed the structure of the material. I was wondering if screws could be used on the bottom rather than glue. 3/4" (18mm BB) frame

 

[Larry$]

was wondering if screws could be used on the bottom rather than glue. 3/4" (18mm BB) frame

I don't recommend the use of screws into the edges of plywood!
If you want an applied bottom you should use Euro type drawer guides. They hook under the bottom and directly support the contents. They don't look all that strong BUT I had them in my old house. We had a large drawer my wife used for canned goods for years and they held up. They are cheap, roll smoothly and feature a simple self close operation.