Lathe Head Alignment

rdean

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I had a suspicion that the spindle on my 12 X 36 was not exactly parallel to the bed ways so I used this method to check. I found it was over 0.020 out at 24 " from the chuck. By adding some shims to the base I was able to get it within 0.003 at 24" or 0.000125 per inch.
I think that is close enough.

Any else use this method or your thoughts?
PDF below.

Ray
 

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If your happy with the end results of .003" in 24", I'd be happy too! In fact I'd be tickled if I could get my almost worn out lathe to cut within that in 24".

His method is simple, just a little math involved but it works! Most of us get hung up on needing a test bar that is perfectly straight within .0002" in 12" all over! That's almost impossible in most of our shops.
 
Thanks Ken for your reply and I should have done a search here before asking the question as there seems to be several posts on the subject. This test is mainly for leveling the lathe or aligning the center line of the spindle with the bed ways. When turning between centers a test bar of some kind is still required to adjust the tail stock.
I will be checking the lathe with a precision level in the near future to verify.
Thanks
 
My Grizzly 602 has a provision for head alignment. The head is fastened to the bed with four cap screws in oversized holes and there are two set screws bearing on the rear cap screws for controlled bias. The lathe is fairly well set for alignment of the spindle to the ways; less than .001" over 12"but it cuts a convex face. There is no adjustment for cross feed alignment. The only remedy would be to align the headstock perpendicular to the cross feed ways via the above mentioned adjustment. Once that was done, the base would have to be shimmed to correct any non-parallelness of the ways to the spindle axis.
 
RJ,

What you are saying is half way correct.

Once you get the headstock aligned correctly with the bed and cutting correctly, OD, ID turning that is, then as you said start working on fixing the concave condition. This is where it becomes a pain in the a$$ to do, and it is not not easy to do and fix. I can't say that I can do it without difficulties, and I have most of the tools needed to fix it!
And the way to fix this is by going in and re-scraping the saddle to correct the 90 degree alignment. You have to decide by careful measurements if you re-scrape the bearings or shears that contact the bed ways or the dovetails on the cross slide ways to correct and remedy the problem. If your saddle is heavily worn, may be better off going in and re-machining the way surfaces or shears, as the guys across the pond call them, to correct the alignment issues. But doing that opens up pandora's box, creating new problems that have to be addressed, too. Ken
 
RJ,

What you are saying is half way correct.

Once you get the headstock aligned correctly with the bed and cutting correctly, OD, ID turning that is, then as you said start working on fixing the concave condition. This is where it becomes a pain in the a$$ to do, and it is not not easy to do and fix. I can't say that I can do it without difficulties, and I have most of the tools needed to fix it!
And the way to fix this is by going in and re-scraping the saddle to correct the 90 degree alignment. You have to decide by careful measurements if you re-scrape the bearings or shears that contact the bed ways or the dovetails on the cross slide ways to correct and remedy the problem. If your saddle is heavily worn, may be better off going in and re-machining the way surfaces or shears, as the guys across the pond call them, to correct the alignment issues. But doing that opens up pandora's box, creating new problems that have to be addressed, too. Ken

A bit of context here. The lathe is two years old and has less than fifty hours on it. The 602 has a two bolt mounting system and when I set it up, I mounted it to a piece of 7" channel welded into a custom bench and clamped it tightly. I noticed that I had a significant taper and perhaps erroneously adjusted the headstock to correct it.
What I may have done was cant the headstock to correct a twist in the ways but two wrongs don't make a right.

The original taper decreased moving away from the headstock. Twisting the head counterclockwise corrected the taper issue but, if it were originally correctly oriented relative to the ways and crossfeed, it would now cut a convex face.
I would have to assume that when the lathe was aligned in the factory, that the headstock was more or less correctly aligned to the ways . By wrongly readjusting it to correct a twist that I most likely made in the ways, I messed up the relationship to the cross feed ways. I verified that taper was .0008/12" with the tight tailstock mounting and loosened the mount and remeasured. I was now -.002"/12" and I would have to rotate the headstock clockwise to correct which supports the assumption that I had adjusted the headstock in error in the first place.
I haven't done the readjustment yet because of the difficulty at getting at the headstock bolts and I want to properly check the lathe level and so need to acquire a machinist's level.
So my plan of attack is to 1. loosen the mounting bolts to remove as much external bias as possible; 2. check the overall level of the unbiased machine, correcting any serious issues; 3. adjust the headstock alignment to perpendicular to the cross feed ways (this can be checked by marking a spot on the face plate, mounting and indicator on the cross feed table, and measuring the runout from a position near the front to one near the back); 4. check for taper, using RDM method, shimming the far end base to correct, if necessary. I would then go back and recheck the cross feed for proper alignment and repeat, if necessary.

If this doesn't correct the misalignment of the cross feed to the spindle, then reworking of the cross feed ways would be a solution but I prefer not to take that route without exploring other options first as it is laborious and irreversible.
 
LMS has Starrett level vials for about 20. It's not a full level but works good in a V-block held in place by a magnet. I also have an 0602. The last couple days I have been trying to get my chucks ground straight with no luck. After banging my head on the wall, I decided to check the spindle alignment. I did this a couple ways. First I used my co-ax indicator mounted in the tail stock chuck, which I know is in nearly perfect alignment with the ways, as I hand scraped it into submission. By putting the co-ax feeler in my spindle and checking the difference. This was done by advancing it one inch on all for sides; top, bottom, back and front. I did not try to compair the differences, but you probably can. All I did was determine which way it was out. Every turn I zeroed my indicator and wrote down the numbers. If you dont have a co-ax, you could probably rig something out of some round stock with a pivot hinge and use a regular dial indicator on it to collect a reading.

The other method I used was by putting a reamer in the 4 jaw and running my indicator down the side several inches. Marking with a felt tip where my indicator was resting and rotating the setup to the top and checking for the same numbers. Then I rechucked the reamer in a different position and repeated, and then repeated again. When you do this several times and get the same amount out from side to top the pattern shows the fault.

You can also level the lathe with a plumb bob, and hell it sounds like you are already set to cut one. All jokes aside since I am a tyro I can't post links yet, but if you type this into Youtube it will show you how. ( Metal Lathe 101, Tip #1: Leveling your lathe) Best of luck, my Grizzly is a POS, and I am not allowed to share my opinion of the company, but lets just say I am on the verge of filing a fraud complaint against them as I have over 200 hours working on Grizzly lathes and not turning stock kind of work either.
 
Oh I should have mentioned, my drip pan doesn't touch the table I had to put boards under it because some genius made it so the edges stick down farther than the bottom of the tray. I don't know how yours is set up, but if there is any point where the pan touches the table you should check and make sure you are not mounting on air. I think it was a purposeful design by Grizzly or their supplier to cause premature wear. It's just like the money making grit I found in my spindle bearings.
 
or 0.000125 per inch.
I think that is close enough.



Ray

That is impressive. I suspect that no one outside of the optics industry does better, you may want to sell your skills there, or the thin film coating industry where they will be happy to use your skills at sub .001" operations.

Good luck
 
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