Is there any use for a Morse Taper adapter that goes in an end mill holder?

[erikmannie]

I bought an Israeli 1-1/2” end mill holder. After I bought it, I noticed how very few 1-1/2” shank cutting tools are available for it (with the exception of indexable end mills as those are commonly available with a 1-1/2” straight shank).

I picked up a USA made & 2 Made in India adapters that are MT (numbers 2,3 and 4) inside & 1-1/2” straight shank outside. These are also sometimes called adapter sleeves.

The only MT cutting tools that I have are taper shank drills, and these tend to have quite a long projection in relation to their diameter. What is more, the aforementioned adapter sleeves project out of the end mill holder by up to almost 2”. I haven’t tried the MT2 adapter sleeve in the EMH yet; hopefully the EMH will contain the whole adapter.

A consensus of forum members have pointed out that this long combined projection of end mill holder, adapter sleeve stickout & the drill may well pose a risk to the operator and/or machine.

What other MT cutters or other tools might one ever use on a knee style milling machine that don’t raise safety concerns?

 

[erikmannie]

I won’t use the standard length taper shank drills out of a concern for safety, but here is a picture of a MT2 stub drill. I don’t find this to be a particularly stubby drill, but apparently it is by taper shank drill standards:



I have also reached the point where I have run out of room & money for tools. I bought a set of 1/2”-1” taper shank drills (in 1/32” increments) for my lathes back when I could afford to do so. These are heroes on the lathe.

I just really wonder what anybody would ever use a “straight shank outside and MT inside” adapter sleeve for! I’ll bet that it is only for cutting tools that go straight down (e.g. counterbore, reamer). It would obviously be a bad idea to plan for a horizontal force (e.g. shell mill, end mill).

 

[matthewsx]

I think you've reached the point of diminishing returns. MT taper drills for the lathe, or if you get a drill press that'll take em'

The mill just needs a big enough drill bit to get the boring head started, you'll have much better control and when you need accuracy that's what your mill is for.

John

 

[gard]

You can still buy new or used MT collets in MT2 and MT3 so if you could rig up a drawbar that would be an option for holding end mills or other round stuff. I think the older bridgeports had MT3 arbors, my clausing mill has MT2

 

[mmcmdl]

I use a R8 to MT2 for my smallish Wohlhaupter head in the mill but there is no extra stick out with it . Why no mention of S&D drills or even insert drills which are more suitable for a mill ?

I've often turned a straight diameter on taper shank drills so that it could be used in a taper mount or collet before . The best of both worlds .

 

[Cadillac]

Mt drills are mostly used on a lathe or a drill press. As you know you loose a lot of real estate. I would also look at your manual their is a limit on the diameter your machine has torque for. Those mt sockets you have I thought were for grinding the drill bit on a tool grinder. They allow you to chuck a mt drill without a mt socket. At least that’s what I use mine for.
Unless you need the length of the tool I would use stubby round shank with a flat drills in the larger 3/4”+ range.

 

[erikmannie]

Thank you for the helpful responses.

One idea I thought of for these adapter sleeves:

Put a dead center in the adapter sleeve in order to get an existing hole almost perfectly centered. The application would be if you want to chamfer (or bore or machine an internal groove, etc.) an existing hole after the work piece has been taken out of the vise.

Once you have the hole perfectly centered, lock down the x-and y- axes and zero the DRO (or dials on the handwheels).

 

[mmcmdl]

Put a dead center in the adapter sleeve in order to get an existing hole almost perfectly centered. The application would be if you want to chamfer (or bore or machine an internal groove, etc.) an existing hole after the work piece has been taken out of the vise.

Once you have the hole perfectly centered, lock down the x-and y- axes and zero the DRO (or dials on the handwheels).

You could , but there are easier methods to do this . Quickest way is to use an edge finder on a bore . Touch off 2 opposing X edges and center . Repeat on Y and rinse .

 

[Jimsehr]

I bought an Israeli 1-1/2” end mill holder. After I bought it, I noticed how very few 1-1/2” shank cutting tools are available for it (with the exception of indexable end mills as those are commonly available with a 1-1/2” straight shank).

I picked up a USA made & 2 Made in India adapters that are MT (numbers 2,3 and 4) inside & 1-1/2” straight shank outside. These are also sometimes called adapter sleeves.

The only MT cutting tools that I have are taper shank drills, and these tend to have quite a long projection in relation to their diameter. What is more, the aforementioned adapter sleeves project out of the end mill holder by up to almost 2”. I haven’t tried the MT2 adapter sleeve in the EMH yet; hopefully the EMH will contain the whole adapter.

A consensus of forum members have pointed out that this long combined projection of end mill holder, adapter sleeve stickout & the drill may well pose a risk to the operator and/or machine.

What other MT cutters or other tools might one ever use on a knee style milling machine that don’t raise safety concerns?

1 1/2 straight shank outside holder with 2,3,4 mt inside sound like turret lathe tooling to me. Old school turret tooling sometimes called drill sockets.

 

[benmychree]

1 1/2 straight shank outside holder with 2,3,4 mt inside sound like turret lathe tooling to me. Old school turret tooling sometimes called drill sockets.

I agree with Jim, Turret lathes are about the only place that those sockets are used, I had two turret lathes, a #2 Bardons & Oliver, and a #4 Warner and Swasey, and used such sockets to hold drills and reamers. They would have little use on a Bridgeport style machine due to (at least) the long overhang. ! 1/2" cutting tools would have no place on such a machine.