Insert Tooling

Damn Yankee

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Nov 30, 2022
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105
Hi All,

I've never used anything but HSS. Watching some videos focused on inside and outside threading, it seemed to me the inserts did a much better job at threading. So, off I went to research purchasing tools for threading.

Wow, I opened a Pandora's Box. So many compositions, angles, and some nomenclature I did not know. Does anyone know of a definitive (or nearly so) book with illustrations that can help me ease into this new world I found?

Though it looks overwhelming, I expect I am making more of it than I should and it may not be superior to HSS except in certain circumstances where I might not venture. But if nothing else, it gives me a new aspect of this addicting hobby (profession for most) to learn!

Thanks,
John
 
Insert use? A lot depends on what lathe you may have, how heavy/rigid it is, inserts are not cheap and easily chipped/broken. Even with my (quite) heavy lathe, for threading I use only HSS tools, mostly Aloris threading tools. For internal threading I use Bokum tools, also use their boring tools.
 
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I don't really think you'll find anything 'better' than HSS - just more convenient. I see H-M member DavidPBest's book recommended frequently. Full disclosure: I use some Shars inserts (mostly 'lay down', but I have the 'edge on' type for use where lay-down doesn't work) for some of my external threading - just for convenience. I have some internal threading inserts, but it seems I always end up grinding something special because they don't fit for one reason or another.

GsT
 
I tend to disagree, but it depends on the size of the lathe and the tooling you are using. I have been using laydown carbide inserts for years, I use Iscar/Carmex holders and inserts, and get great finish and have yet to break the tip of an insert while threading for many years. I have done 100's of threads and still am on my original laydown insert for both internal and external threading holders. Prior to that, I used TPMC/TNMC carbide inserts and they were horrible, I barely could do one thread w/o them breaking. The brand of holder/carbide insert makes a very big difference in both durability and cutting performance, and if you want you can buy HSS type inserts for threading. I believe David Best also uses the Kennametal Top Notch threading and grooving holders/threading inserts. If you are looking for lay-down threading holders and inserts inserts, you can go buy directly from Carmex (they are a brand of Iscar) or something like Zoro with a 20% off discount which they send out regularly if you sign up for their emails:
Carmex threading holders:
SER 0625 H16
SER 0750 K16
SIR 0625 P16
SIR 0750 P16

Partial thread 8-48 TPI inserts, BMA coating is a good all around type that works in a wide range of metals I would get two inserts ehich should last a long time):
16 ER AG60 BMA
16 IR AG60 BMA


High-Speed Steel Inserts for Indexable Threading Tools

All this threading was done w/o any finishing of the threads and pretty much maxed out the internal depth that I could thread.
Threading with Laydown inserts.jpg
 
Thanks for the replies.

The lathe is a Grizzly G4003G which I do not know is up to carbide or not. I will look for David's view on it as well.

Still learning...

John
 
Thanks for the replies.

The lathe is a Grizzly G4003G which I do not know is up to carbide or not. I will look for David's view on it as well.

Still learning...

John
I can't say, never had any experience with one, but Chinese machines are not known for beef.
 
Inserts are my preferred tool for the lathe, even on the mini lathe. I use HSS only for some special applications.

In general, I use the speed m/min (RPM) as recommended for the insert 90 .. 300 m/min. A feed rate of 0.1 mm /rev and a cutting depth of 0.2 mm (finishing conditions). These settings work on POM, brass, aluminium and steel for the mini lathe and my bigger lathe. When turning small diameters (3 mm or less), I reduce the feed to 0.05 mm/min and the cutting depth to 0.05 mm.
On my (non rigid hobby) lathes, small inserts (CCMT060204, DCMT070204, TCMT110204) perform better than large inserts. I can't utilize a professional grade insert so I use cheap € 4,-- to € 10,-- (box of 10) inserts designed for finishing mostly VT15TF types.
I am going to try inserts with a 0.2 mm nose radius (CCGT060202 & DCGT060202) because I expect the chip breaking will be better under my turning conditions.
 
The '4003 is a competent lathe. It will work with HSS or good inserts. It's heavy enough, and powerful enough for just about anything short of thread forming inserts (those that have multiple grooves and cut a top and bottom profile - rarely used in the home shop.

GsT
 
I tend to disagree, but it depends on the size of the lathe and the tooling you are using. I have been using laydown carbide inserts for years, I use Iscar/Carmex holders and inserts, and get great finish and have yet to break the tip of an insert while threading for many years. I have done 100's of threads and still am on my original laydown insert for both internal and external threading holders. Prior to that, I used TPMC/TNMC carbide inserts and they were horrible, I barely could do one thread w/o them breaking. The brand of holder/carbide insert makes a very big difference in both durability and cutting performance, and if you want you can buy HSS type inserts for threading. I believe David Best also uses the Kennametal Top Notch threading and grooving holders/threading inserts. If you are looking for lay-down threading holders and inserts inserts, you can go buy directly from Carmex (they are a brand of Iscar) or something like Zoro with a 20% off discount which they send out regularly if you sign up for their emails:
Carmex threading holders:
SER 0625 H16
SER 0750 K16
SIR 0625 P16
SIR 0750 P16

Partial thread 8-48 TPI inserts, BMA coating is a good all around type that works in a wide range of metals I would get two inserts ehich should last a long time):
16 ER AG60 BMA
16 IR AG60 BMA


High-Speed Steel Inserts for Indexable Threading Tools

All this threading was done w/o any finishing of the threads and pretty much maxed out the internal depth that I could thread.
View attachment 452616
Nice work....
 
Hi All,

I've never used anything but HSS. Watching some videos focused on inside and outside threading, it seemed to me the inserts did a much better job at threading.

Be unreasonably observant when looking at how convenient, easy, and effective things are that happen on YouTube..... You see what you see, but you also miss what you miss.

Insert tooling is undoubtedly more convenient. You don't have to grind the tool. How much more convenient is up to you. It's pretty fast to grind a tool, depending on the size of the HSS blank, but like anything, the more you do it, the easier and faster it gets. But the bottom line is that you still have to do it. On the other hand, the insert holder costs real money, the tool post for it costs real money, the inserts themselves cost real money.... It adds up. Do you need the convenience? My contention is that there are some things that modern tools can do which HSS ground cutters just can not. So I do keep both.

In terms of cutting threads- That is a VERY big ask for a small to medium sized lathe, as you're driving a form tool into whatever you're threading. One of the drawbacks of insert tooling is that it's not that sharp. On a smaller lathe, that means higher horsepower, more tool pressure, more deflection, more headaches. On larger commercial machines, with a gazillion horsepowers and a ton (or tons) of cast iron to keep stuff from deflecting, that same "not sharp" property can absolutely leave you a much better finish in many materials. Almost like it's been cut and burnished in one operation. Not to mention, a lot of the inserts you see in somewhat larger machines, they'll be "topping" inserts. You don't undersize the stock for a thread with these, you leave it at nominal. Then you thread until the OD of the threads (with a regular micrometer) reads correctly for the finished thread. Boom, done. That's a LOT of engagement of a form tool, a very high tool pressure load, chatter,stalls, etc on a small lathe.

I'd highly recommend that you try this, and see what happens on YOUR lathe, on YOUR preference of materials. Basically, how is it going to work for you. I'm going to also highly recommend that you do not jump in with both feet. Grab a suitable holder and threading insert (or several, you can' round or point the tip on these for different pitches the way you can with HSS, so you'll need several inserts...) Depending on "everything", you might like that insert and never go back. You might find that the insert doesn't do as well as the tools you grind. Or you might find as I did, the insert approach works kinda OKish maybe sorta.... And external threading tools are dead easy to make and keep sharpened. So HSS it is for me. On the other hand, internal threading tools? Crazy lot of grinding to be done, one incident of poor judgement can wreck an internal threading tool right at the grinder, before it ever hits the work, there's limited sharpenings available, and the length is somewhat limited in my case just due to the size of HSS that I can hold. So in that case, I prefer to live with the drawbacks of the inserts. (And the benefits too of course... I'm not negating that). So the inconvenience of grinding internal threading tools just kind of tips the scales for me.

You also may (or may not....) run into issues down the road as well, if/when you get into fancer alloys, there are a lot of materials which are simply more aggressive than what HSS is able to deal with. In that case, low power, small cuts, hot strings, and all kinds of other compromises must be dealt with, because HSS is no good if you can only cut for a minute or two on a tool before it's dead..... So, inserts are the winner there as well.


I would strongly recommend that you at least consider David Best's book. This forum can and will get you what you need to know for an insert holder or two. If you're going to run with it to any degree however, while there is no one complete infallable authority on the subject, Dave's book is very useful. Whether you go with all inserts, or just a few, his will save you enough money to cover it's self in no time flat. Mistakes in this area get expensive, fast.
 
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