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Info needed for installing/setting up pm940m
- Thread starter tim81
- Start date
- Joined
- Jun 5, 2023
- Messages
- 108
To put the R8 adapter onto the drill truck, make sure the tapers are spotless both inside the chuck and on the taper itself. Open the chuck all the way up set it down on a hard surface, hard piece of wood would do, and a light tap on the back side of the R8 to fully seat it. It doesn't take much.
Hang on to those two bolts that came with it. They fit in the t-slot so you can use that to bolt down a vice or some other clamps.
Hang on to those two bolts that came with it. They fit in the t-slot so you can use that to bolt down a vice or some other clamps.
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2022
- Messages
- 2,610
The R8 adapter that has the 2 ears is a shell mill attachment, you'll have to buy the mill end extra from tool store. the blue allen keys are metric and the red are imperial, you'll eventually need both. the chuck is a tap on, put the R8 adapter into the frige for a few hours take it out put the chuck on it and give it a few light taps and your set. The 2 bolts are T-head bolts for fastening a vise or other tooling to your table using the T-slots.
Thanks man
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2022
- Messages
- 2,610
A shell mill is a mill which works like a hole saw, they are generally large. You can get a 2" shell mill, attach it to this holder and use it as a face fill....
Nice but will it work on this size machine over cast iron or steel? Or it’s only for aluminum? I thought flycutters where used for facing
Definitely clean the ways. The first photo you showed of the crap on the top of the way is just junk and this surface is not important to operation, but should be cleaned off to keep the crud out of the ways. This surface in that photo does not make contact in the ways anyway. You can see the gap at the top of the saddle, it will be a couple of mm between the saddle and the surface that you showed as being so dirty. As far as oil is concern on this z-axis way, just put a puddle at the way corner at the top of the saddle, both sides, and it will drip down into the ways. Likewise at down z-axis gib. You can thank gravity. It will hang around a long time as you do not crank it up and down very often. The clamps on the pair Z-axis gib are poorly made in that they have small bearing surfaces against the gib. In my 940M these had bent the gib before I ever got it. If you get a big clamp and clamp the Head to the column at the ways without fear of it falling... so you can pull the gib out and take a look at it. I did this and found big dig marks in the back of the gib from these clamping screws. If the gib is too small or chewed off on the small end then the holding screw may be striking it on the side causing it to bind. If you do not have the gib locked down it will slide around and get looses when you are cranking one way and get extremely tight to appear to be binding when you are cranking it the other way. If you find that the cranking is tighter at one end of the column than the other then there is the possibility that the column ways are not cut parallel but flare out. Also, my geared head is too heavy for the ways. As the head tilts it tends to bend the column ways together when the top of the saddle is in the mid way up position. Yours may not be so heavy. Anyway, if I adjust the gib when the head is in the mid point of the z- column position I may make it too tight for the end positions. This is because of the gab between the column ways in the center as opposed to no gap at the ends. This gap is where the ball screw mount feeds through to the lead screw.
I try not do not use the screw clamps at all, but I have a CNC and the stepper motor holds the position when the power is on. When I power down I stick a wooden block under the head to keep it from falling.
If you want you could drill a hole in the side of the saddle for the Y-axis and install an oil port. If you hit the way interface with the drill bit you you will have to clean it up and smooth it out. So make sure the saddle is in a position that you can later expose by moving it over. Better still just wet down the exposed area under the bellows and move the y-axis back and forth a few times to spread it out. It is pretty exposed at the front when you move the y-axis toward the column anyway. Just oil it there. It will not hurt anything if there is too much way oil. Just a little messy and that is what milling is all about anyway. My mill has auto oilers built in and if I let it run as it was set at the factory the entire mill is dripping all of the time. It seems the oil reservoir is always always going dry!
I use Naphtha to clean my surfaces and ways. It does not take the paint off, but works well for the grease and dirty oil and even though it is what is called lighter fluid (smokers) is far less flammable that acetone. An acetone spill can mess up your painted surfaces that you want to keep.
Dave L.