I want to convert a Band Saw to cut Metal

[EarlH]

Has anyone converted a wood cutting bandsaw to cut metal? I have an early 50's era 10 inch Rockwell/Homecraft Banadsaw that I would like to use to cut stainless steel rifle barrels. I know that I have to run the saw much slower on metal than on wood. To that end, I have a 3 phase 1/3 hp motor and a Minarik VFD that I am planning on using. I am open to suggestions as to what speeds and blades to use. Researching bandsaw blades makes my head spin. I also need advise on welding blades. The bandsaw originally used a 71.5 inch blade. I put some new neopreme tires on the wheels that were thinner than the originals resulting in the blade being too long (ran out of adjustment). I suspect that I will need about a 70 inch blade and I don't see that size as being standard. I am open to suggestions and anxious to hear anyone's experiences doing this.

Thanks,
Earl

 

[EarlH]

What I am cutting is mostly 6mm rifle barrels. They are 416 stainless. About an inch and a quarter at one end and a little less than an inch at the other. Any advise on welding the blades? I have a gas welding set up. I sold my stick welder and hope to get a tig welder soon.

 

[tucsonlou]

Has anyone converted a wood cutting bandsaw to cut metal?.....Earl

I considered converting my Delta woodcutting bandsaw to metalcutting but decided it would be cheaper and more doable to buy a dedicated metalcutting saw.
The slow speed required an additional speed reduction of 100 to 1 or 50 to 1 to get from wood speed down to metal speed. There would be problems with motor overheating, even with an inverter type motor, and not running smoothly either IF i could find a VFD with that 50 to 1 speed reduction.
Pulley or gear reduction would avoid that but Rube Goldberg-ish. I thought about that for a long while.
Delta says that metalcutting saws are different. At least you need better guides both above and below the table. Also a woodcutting saw is not designed with coolng fluids in mind.
In general metalcutting takes awhile. Some method of automatic feed of material and stopping when done is desireable.
One last thought 1/3 HP seems pretty small.

You can see that I never did the project so this is just a list of fear thoughts that lack expertise.
Good luck,

 

[Arved]

Take a look at MIT Tech Video Machine Shop 2. Fast forward to 28:30, where the bandsaw is discussed, or 33:40 to get right to "Suitable Speeds, Feeds and Materials." They go from wood to aluminum @ 1000 fpm cutting speed without any problem, or any coolant. He adjusts the transmission from high range to low range to get 100 fpm to cut steel, also without coolant. Now, he's cutting at a snails pace, and getting a lot of chatter, but that's one of the compromises even a shop like MIT's robotics shop will live with.

Hope this helps,
- Arved
(Newbie. Very, very much a newbie)

 

[rock_breaker]

I have a Delta wood/metal cutting bandsaw that I used today to cut 4 "Z" clamps out of 1" square stock today. The metal cutting is slow; using 10 TPI blade that has been on the machine about a year (light use) did cut some 3/4" X 5" bar and a 3" shaft. 1/2 round bar probably takes a minute. Worst thing is holding the work piece on the saw while cutting. Have a plan in my head to over come the holding but it is way back on my "rountuit" list.
Have a good day!
Ray

 

[sanddan]

I added a jack shaft system to my Rigid 14" saw and it works pretty good. It is slow when cutting thick material but I haven't ever used a true metal cutting vertical saw so I can't compare the speed.

 

[Mac1]

Rather than attempting to weld the blades, get some silver solder, flux, and make a jig and silver solder them. Much easier.

 

[TommyD]

I have a cheap wood saw I was going to put a jack shaft on but never got around to it, too much of an investment on a questionable quality saw. I still check CL for a decent older metal saw.

 

[Wreck™Wreck]

The bandsaw originally used a 71.5 inch blade. I put some new neopreme tires on the wheels that were thinner than the originals resulting in the blade being too long (ran out of adjustment).

Thanks,
Earl

I have never seen a bandsaw intended for metals that employed rubber tires, I have seen people use wood cutting bandsaws primarily for aluminum and in short order they had "Aluminum Impregnated Rubber Tires" which became lumpier until they failed, this is exacerbated by flood coolant or other cutting fluids.

This does not however address your questions about stock blade lengths or making your own blades.

 

[Cadillac STS]

For what you want to do, cutting round stock repeatedly look into a horizontal metal cutting saw before going through all the trouble converting your wood band saw. It lets you clamp the metal and just let the saw cut. Will be much easier, safer and more precise.

Check Harbor Freight for their inexpensive horizontal band saw for metal. Don't forget you can sell your wood band saw on Craigslist to get part or all the cost of the inexpensive horizontal saw.