I learned a new trick today

JimDawson

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I am turning some 4150 and needed to grind a chip breaker into the cheap HF POS brazed carbide bit. I was heading for the carbide grinder and noticed I had a few Dremel 545 diamond wheels in the top of my tool box that I had bought for another project. I thought, hmmmm:thinking:. I grabbed the Dremel, chucked it up, and tried it, it cut carbide like butter. I was able to grind a nice chip breaker in the tool and do a bit of other shaping on the bit also. This is one of those things I never thought of before.

Just thought I would pass it along.


About $18 at Home Depot or buy online for less.

maqsl2_sLCJFwiykfT8-ggQ.jpg From Dremel's description: ''The 545 Diamond Wheel is completely coated with fine diamond particles for working with hard materials. Designed to be long lasting and not lose its shape or break, it provides smooth, fine cuts. Great for cutting, sawing and carving of hard materials, such as marble, concrete, brick, porcelain, ceramics, hard epoxy and soft and hard wood''

r19820v15.jpg
 
I am turning some 4150 and needed to grind a chip breaker into the cheap HF POS brazed carbide bit.


Excellent idea. I've used 4" tile grinding/cutting blades on the outside of my grinder wheel. But it's only good for flats and such.

How about a photo for us chip breaker neophites?

Eric
 
Use light pressure with diamonds. DO NOT USE THEM ON HSS. Carbide is fine. The diamonds will migrate carbon into HSS,and get worn out.

I do have a 200 RPM diamond tool grinder-NOTE:200 RPM. It is fine at that very low speed for HSS. High speed will soon ruin them on steel though. Disobey this at your own expense!!
 
Use light pressure with diamonds. DO NOT USE THEM ON HSS. Carbide is fine. The diamonds will migrate carbon into HSS,and get worn out.

I do have a 200 RPM diamond tool grinder-NOTE:200 RPM. It is fine at that very low speed for HSS. High speed will soon ruin them on steel though. Disobey this at your own expense!!

Thanks for the heads up. Another tidbit for my miniature mind!
 
Tile saw blades are also diamond, and they will cut carbide.
 
I love to see a pic or your work on the brazed tool as well. I've tried some chipbreaker grooves, but not sure how well it worked. I'd love to see what yours looks like. Thanks for the tip.
 
Here are the best pictures I could get. This is a standard AR-6-RH brazed carbide 1/2 inch tool from HF. 12399953707201680467965.jpe

I also had to grind some off of the back to get clearance for the center, I did this on the bench grinder.

The tool is a bit beat up from about an hour of machining, but it was still cutting just fine.

I hope this gives you the general idea. It took a couple of grinds to get the chip breaker to work the way I wanted it to, but it now curls the chip back into the work ahead of the cut, thus breaking the chip off.

cb1.jpg


A top view. I don't know that the 3 black spots are in the side of the tool, I can't see them with the naked eye. Must be a lens flair or something.

cb2.jpg

The front view. That double dip was not intentional, it should be a smooth flow, but my hand slipped. The ridge in the back is from the back rake I ground in, seen better in the next picture.

cb3.jpg


The cutting edge as seen from the work's perspective.
cb5.jpg



Here is in picture in action. Note the little curly chips on the tool bit, this is what is coming off of the tool.

cb7.jpg


Same material and conditions using a tool without a chip breaker, note the rats nest is starting.

cb8.jpg


The little widget I made with the tool, I can't tell you what it's for or I'd have to shoot ya. :lmao: This started out life as a piece of 1 1/4 stock, so I had a lot of material to remove.

The pins are 1/8 inch dowel pins.

cb6.jpg
 
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I need to experiment with this some. I've never ground any chip breakers in my tools, opting instead to pick up tossed "rats nests" pieces all over the shop. Would be a lot easier to clean-up the equipment, as well. I've been reading an old book called "Theory of metal cutting", which discusses chip breakers, but the majority of the theory is on the engineering aspects of how a tool cuts metal. Sounds dull (no pun intended), but it's actually pretty interesting.

Thanks for sharing,

Eric
 
I'm impressed with your pictures. And glad you posted them. That is not at all what I had envisioned. I'm going to have to try some experimenting as well. Just need to get a couple of these other projects out of the way. Thanks so much for putting up the great set of pictures!

Barry
 
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