Hydrashift Crossfeed Parts

Plum Creek

Plum Creek

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H-M Supporter Gold Member
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Nov 9, 2013
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I have been working on a variety of other projects so my hydra shift 15 has been languishing in the corner unloved.

I never could get it to cut properly, and it had issues. The crossfeed was difficult to turn and it had half turn of endplay. Disassembly revealed a bent screw and that all the components between the nut and the end of the screw are missing.
Looking at the parts book, It's not immediately obvious how the missing collar, bushing and bearing are supposed to be held in place. Just to complicate it a bit further, the machine came with parts of the taper but not all of it.
I would appreciate any advise, pics or help of any kind.
hh
 
JM
Thanks for the pics. I'm not seeing the bearing, bushing or collar, in your pics. From your upper pic, It looks like I only have the top 3 pcs of the taper.
IMG_2688.jpg IMG_2691.jpg IMG_2690.jpg
 
My "guess" is that you have a standard leadscrew that isn't made for use with the taper attachment, which would not require those parts.
 
You might be right, I didn't think of that! I will compare the numbers tomorrow.
 
Yeup, the part number is for the non taper screw. Thanks!
That is a nice job of restoration on your lathe!
 
Anyone have recommendations on how best to restore/straighten or replace the cross feed screw?
I don't have live centers to mount the shaft on, but the cross feed screw seems to resemble a cam more than a straight shaft. It has 3 high spots that I can see without an indicator. Its also been heated previously in the unthreaded portion.
The threaded portion are 9/16 LH-8, and from the gear back to the handle its 1/2".
The threads and the nut are in reasonable shape considering the beating they must have had.
I will get a better pic in the next day or so.
IMG_2746.JPG
 
After watching a few Keith Fenner videos on shaft straightening, I mapped out the high spots and their orientation. I used a ball mill to cut beds into scrap 1" stock and stuck it in the press. Over the course of a week or so, I managed to coax it down to .010. I hope that will suffice.
Made a trip to the hardware store to buy new tapered pins only to discover that the handle is drilled off center and the shaft is not.
 
Nice job, I think that will work good for you! The brass "T-nut" is adjustable to take up wear, which works great, but you have to be careful to make sure not to overdo it, as you thread is probably worn more in the center/front of the shaft, which would make it hard to turn when in the area of good thread.
Jack
 
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