How To Mount A Drill Chuck?

[extropic]

Jon has written that your lathe has a MT3 spindle taper. Based on that info, I recommend that you buy an ER40 Collet Chuck w/ integral MT3 shank threaded for a draw bar (not w/ a tang).

Here is a link to one example; http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-M12-MT3...hash=item415dbfb2a4:m:m7ACuA3wJL7sZUJYdWx4ZZw

I don't know anything about the quality, precision or seller of the linked item and just offer it as an example of the "type" recommended.

I recommend the shank that is tapped for a drawbar so that you can make one up out of a long bolt or all-thread and rest assured that the chuck is positively retained in the spindle. To remove the chuck, loosen the drawbar a couple of turns and rap the end (nut protecting the threads) to dislodge the mating tapers.

I recommend the ER40 type because of it's larger capacity. Plan ahead. As you build your capability, through increased knowledge, experience and tooling, projects will present themselves that you haven't foreseen. Even though the project that you have in mind (Spitfire) needs 8mm max, 40mm capability will come in handy before long. If the ER40 is uncomfortably large for your model work, buy it anyway. You can also buy an ER16 stub chuck and hold it in the ER40.

ER16 short straight shank example; http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-C1-ER16...664036?hash=item4173711124:g:hhUAAOxy4fVTACYB

Your collection of collets can be built piece by piece, as projects require, or in a complete set, if budget allows.

Be aware of the precision of the tooling that you buy. If TIR (Total Indicator Reading or Total Indicated Runout, same meaning) is not specified (guaranteed) be skeptical and ask. If they don't know or don't reply, IMO they are not likely to replace an unacceptable item (what warranty?). After you get your tooling, measure TIR to verify it's as expected. Only buy hardened and ground collet chucks, arbors and collets as they will give long service under any reasonable circumstances.

Please consider starting a thread, with pics of course, about your Spitfire build. Sounds like fun.

 

[Andre]

If your drill chuck is in good shape, it can work very well as a workholding method providing it uses a threaded mount. Most good quality chucks hold around .003" or less in good shape, but that would be an estimate.

South Bend used to sell a drill chuck made to thread onto the spindle threads for center drilling the ends of shafts and small workholding. You could also hold the OD of the chuck in a 4 jaw to zero out runout.

 

[Tozguy]

A drawbar is a must for holding an MT3-ER collet system in the spindle. With ER collets the TIR spec is better with smaller sizes so compare TIR before buying a larger collet chuck than you need.

There are also MT3 collets. MT3 collets are roughly the same price as ER collets but don't require a chuck. An MT3 collet has less range than an ER collet but is deeper.
http://www.busybeetools.com/products/collet-mt3-1-4in.html

If you already have a good drill chuck and an independant chuck (4 jaw) then Andre's idea to hold one in the other should work well with the advantage of having a through hole to hold long work.

 

[John Hasler]

South Bend used to sell a drill chuck made to thread onto the spindle threads for center drilling the ends of shafts and small workholding.

A spindle chuck. My Logan came with one. It's a Jacob's 59B. 3/4" capacity, a bore that matches the spindle bore, and less than .001" runout. Makes a 3-jaw superfluous.

 

[airscale]

thank you all very much - quite a lot to take in

I have bought a collet and holder set which is 3MT and covers 0.5mm to 10mm, it was around £100 and as I saw some sets for £30 I thought it likely to be good quality. Actually I also think I could use a collet to hold a pin vise (holding the work) to go samller than that.

The kind of thing I will use it for is probably way away from what most lathe users would do, or at least a lot smaller. The example I got set upfor would be something like aircraft undercarriage legs - in the scale I work to thats about 5-8mm diameter, all the way down to trying to turn hexagonal stock into scale hose unions for engine bays etc - pretty much all in brass

this is the sort of scale, and I could have done with a lathe when I made the control column on the left..





I looked up draw bars and watched people make them on youtube but I can't seem to find where to buy them? When the collet set arrives it has a 12mm drawbar thread so I guess I can get some studding and nuts and try and make one - at least now I understand the principle of what it is and what it does - so thank you again

this is my new set-up and the drill chuck I was trying to use..



the collet set arrives on Tuesday so looking forward to that - I also saw you can hold a milling fitting in a collet so will have to try and find out more about that too

thanks again folks for your kindly welcome and helpful advice

Peter

 

[intjonmiller]

Very cool project! I really admire such detailed work. I never had the attention span or patience to even do the proper flashing cleanup on the Revell/Testors type model cars I did as a kid. I threw out the ones I found in my father's storage shed a while back because I was so embarrassed by the poor quality of the work. So this kind of work is always very impressive to me.

Usually milling on the lathe is highly impractical because of the limited work envelope (the spindle isn't much higher than the cross slide, and there is a limit to the movement of the cross slide), and because a vertically-mounted lathe milling attachment leaves a lot to be desired in the rigidity department, relative to the broad mounting surface of even a relatively small mill, but in your case it may prove perfectly adequate as your materials are perfectly machinable and the scale certainly fits the envelope. I am very curious to hear how that works out when you try it.

 

[extropic]

airscale,

When I read your OP and reference to 1/18 scale model, I had something much more course in my mind's eye.
Thanks so much for posting the pics of some of your work.

It's mindboggling to imagine all the craftsmanship to create even the partial cockpit area you've shown us.

Very inspiring work there. Thanks again.

 

[extropic]

By the way, for the small, light type of work that you've shown us, I think some milling capability on your lathe could be very useful and doable.
Clearly you're not short of patience, precision or a good helping of "common sense" in the area of metalwork.
A separate milling machine is usually the preferred option but you're the best judge of your requirements and resources.
I'm sure you'll get plenty of helpful input if you ask about milling on the lathe.

 

[12bolts]

Hi Peter

I have bought a collet and holder set which is 3MT and covers 0.5mm to 10mm,

You may find it necessary to remove the chuck key guard on your lathe to work with the collets, or by pass the switch so you can run the lathe with the guard up

all the way down to trying to turn hexagonal stock into scale hose unions for engine bays etc - pretty much all in brass

You can also get collets made for holding hex, square, and other stock, but they can be a bit $$'y

I looked up draw bars and watched people make them on youtube but I can't seem to find where to buy them? When the collet set arrives it has a 12mm drawbar thread so I guess I can get some studding and nuts and try and make one - at least now I understand the principle of what it is and what it does - so thank you again

A drawbar is simple enough to make. If you make one out of tube and drill through the centre of your 12mm threaded piece, longer stock can pass through and you dont need to cut your stock to short lengths to fit. Also for the sizes you are working on a handwheel to tighten and loosen the collets would be a worthwhile addition.

Cheers Phil