How to manual machine shallow (sideways) R8 tray

[eraserhd]

I have shallow drawers under my mini mill, so I want to lay my collets sideways and I want to make nice little trays. I also have an 7x14 mini lathe.

I’m not sure how to manually machine the cutout since the bottom isn’t flat and the collets even have a taper. If it weren’t for the taper, I could mill the body with a bowl cutter (is that what they are called).

Most of my _workable_ ideas so far have been to hand carve a positive, make a negative, and cast with paper fiber or sawdust and glue which I have plenty of. But are there any tricks for manually machining this instead of getting out the chisels — positive or negative?

Ok, maybe turn a wood or aluminum blank collet and embed it in epoxy for a negative?

 

[Just for fun]

Good question, the easy way out would be to invest in a 3D printer.....

 

[eraserhd]

Good question, the easy way out would be to invest in a 3D printer.....

I actually have one, and oh how I’ve invested in it (since 2015). I don’t want the trays to be plastic, but I could try and make a mold this way. I’ve never done that.

 

[matthewsx]

Sounds like a perfect use for PLA

 

[extropic]

What I think you need is two ball end mills (not bowl cutters).
One for the R8 body = 15/16 + a little
One for the head diameter = 1.25 + a little
Forget about trying to form-fit the tapers.
Cut the 15/16 (perpendicular to the lay of the collets) at full depth the full length of the tray, to provide finger access to pick-up each collet.
I would make the base 4.25 wide and add a sheet metal cap at the taper end (or both ends) to keep the collets from sliding out.

 

[extropic]

If you're going to cut plastic, the router bits might be OK.
If metal, use ball end mills.

 

[RaisedByWolves]

I have shallow drawers under my mini mill, so I want to lay my collets sideways and I want to make nice little trays. I also have an 7x14 mini lathe.

I’m not sure how to manually machine the cutout since the bottom isn’t flat and the collets even have a taper. If it weren’t for the taper, I could mill the body with a bowl cutter (is that what they are called).

Most of my _workable_ ideas so far have been to hand carve a positive, make a negative, and cast with paper fiber or sawdust and glue which I have plenty of. But are there any tricks for manually machining this instead of getting out the chisels — positive or negative?

Ok, maybe turn a wood or aluminum blank collet and embed it in epoxy for a negative?

Simple answer would be to make a rectangular box to fit one less than the amount of collets you have and stagger them up/down to fit.

Lay them out head to toe and measure, then make the box to suit those dimensions.

 

[RJSakowski]

No need for curved cutouts. Cut a 1" wide+ x 3.1" long x .5" deep slot in your tray. Cut a 1.25" wide x 1.1" long x .625" deep slot off one end. This will securely hold your R8 collets. Modify the end cutout accordingly for end mill holders.

 

[Reddinr]

Also, instead of trying for form-fit, for the minor diameter end of the taper you could glue in a small block to support that end.

 

[Jim F]

I would make a simple grid of scrap thin wood.