How to adapt a 550v 3 phase machine to run on 220v in Canada.

Thanks for the help so far. I believe it's 3 phase, as you suspected.
This is the machine - 1959 Omnitrade Machinery LTD., Model H040, TOS Shaper,

And this is the info 1667831554872.png
tag -
1667831655469.png

My apologies for the mixup regarding the proper phase. I didn't see it for this machine, so I looked at the next couple machines ( it's a machine shop dispersal).
The next machine said 2 phase, Now that I looked at more, it's 550 volt 3 phase.
I would think that the option TorontoBuilder gave about replacing the motor to a 240v may work for this machine.
Thanks again for the info already given and any that may come .
It's a big help.
K
 
Assuming you are really talking three phase, a 240-600 isolation boost transformer with 600 as the secondary is what you need. They are much more common in Canada and can be found used. You need to be careful about running a step down in reverse due to grounding issues. Dave

No I was talking about a simpler auto transformer. They're must more prevalent, and cheaper by a factor of 4. I could not find a used 15 KVA isolation transformer anywhere in Canada over the course of 3 months. I could find many autotransformers
 
Thanks for the help so far. I believe it's 3 phase, as you suspected.
This is the machine - 1959 Omnitrade Machinery LTD., Model H040, TOS Shaper,

And this is the info View attachment 425904
tag -
View attachment 425905

My apologies for the mixup regarding the proper phase. I didn't see it for this machine, so I looked at the next couple machines ( it's a machine shop dispersal).
The next machine said 2 phase, Now that I looked at more, it's 550 volt 3 phase.
I would think that the option TorontoBuilder gave about replacing the motor to a 240v may work for this machine.
Thanks again for the info already given and any that may come .
It's a big help.
K
Nice. a old school shaper.
 
A lot of motors can be wired 220v or 420v and if it's locked to a single voltage you can have them rewound to a different voltage (might be worth doing anyway if it's an old motor) , also there is always motor replacement.

Stu
 
You can see the phase on the tag where it says "Mot3~
Change the motor is my advice also- I don't think rewinding is cost effective anymore
 
I have to agree with other, replace the motor with a 240V motor. Used off ebay is a possibility. The motor shown is a 1HP motor. Buying a 240V 1HP 3 phase motor, and a VFD would be my plan. I have an RPC, but still find the VFD to be worthwhile on the machines in the 3HP and less range, where it is easy to get VFD's that are rated for single phase in, 3 phase out.
 
I looked at the engine tag with fresh eyes today and realized that the phase was right there.
Ooops.
I'm thinking I will pursue it. Replacing a motor won't be unreasonably expensive. If I used the volt-amps-kw conversion properly, a 1 hp motor would work?
Me and equation math don't always get along.

Rabler - thanks for confirming the hp rating.
You answered as I was typing.
Ken
 
If I used the volt-amps-kw conversion properly, a 1 hp motor would work?
Yes. The important thing is to note that it is a 1760 RPM motor, and to try to find one with the same shaft diameter if you don't want to mess with boring out or sleeving the pulley. Frame size and mounting configuration (face or base plate) are also considerations. Some adaptation may be necessary, you can look at the existing motor mount and see how much room you have to work with.
 
You haven't said what the machines are and whether the motors are proprietary or easily replaced. I've been down the 550-600v rat hole and even built a transformer, first with two single phase units wired open delta and then adding a third because the starting inrush was so high on the old motor. Testing 600v told me I was too clumsy to want to keep it on my lathe. 240v is scary but 600v is deadly with little room for error. My control wiring was also 600v and that is a deal breaker in my world.

If the motor is proprietary and rewinding and changing starter overloads is a big project, talk to a real electrical person about the proper transformer. Personally I would not run a 550v motor on 480 unless I was sure it would not get hot. Starving voltage without reducing hz can be hard on those old motors-even if they are tough. Easy to test but if you go the transformer route in Canada you might as well go with the correct one. You want the KVA to be 2-3 times what the largest motors need. Dave
Up front, a "real electrical person" won't be much help. What you need is an old school motor man, preferably the input of a motor rewind shop. The voltage could be adjusted with an autotransformer, if the needed taps were available. The big problem with autotransformers is that the input and output are not magneticly isolated. Which can possibly lead to some interesting side effects.

I have only encountered 550 volts on a new mill install. No trouble shooting, there was a "startup" engineer from the company. He had very good English, better than a couple of fellows I worked with. But our terminology was miles apart. A jumper is not a bridge. . . A Swedish engineer, he knew his stuff but didn't know how to ask an American.

600 volts is actually considered "low voltage" by a lineman. The closest I have come to true high voltage was operating the oil switch on a 115 KV substation. And that was too close for my tastes. There is a dividing line of classes of insulation at 600 volts. In use, it is no more dangerous than 480 systems. To me, the dividing line is between 240 and 480. But that comes down to having 240 in my house. Any voltage is dangerous when conditions are amenable for injury. Standing in a pail of salt water while working on 24 volts can be deadly. Or try tasting the terminals of a 9 volt transistor battery. The way I was taught, way back in '68, was 60 mA, 0.06 Amp, will cause heart problems. I have since heard higher and lower but 60 mils is what I use.

Simply replacing the motor would be the cheapest. Rewinding small motors is horrendously expensive. It takes as much labor as rewinding a 25 horse motor. An aside is that you would likely get a dual voltage, 240/480, motor. The shaft of the OEM motor will probably be metric. A new shaft size would possibly require another pulley. Horsepower to KW rating is simple, 1 HP is ~750 watts, 0.75KW. There are some other considerations, but that will get you close.

.
 
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