How Do I Get The Darn Bearing Race Out?

Here are a few more pics just in case someone follows me with the same problem. Don't know why the pics are on their side. The R8 spindle is carried in a sleeve with a bearing at the top and one at the bottom. Here it is just out of the mill head.

IMG_3426.JPG

Pulling the spindle requires loosening the preload nuts - those suckers were TIGHT - I supported the spindle in my lathe with a center in the tailstock so I could focus on the nuts.
IMG_3427.JPG

I think this device is called a bearing separator - the opposite side of the two plates are beveled to a fairly sharp edge. As you can see from the 1st pic above there was not enough room to get any sort of puller between the spindle and sleeve. Here it has already come most of the way out.


IMG_3429.JPG

Once the spindle was out it was easy to pop out the bearings. The larger race had space below it - I was able to get in there with puller jaws and get it part way up - then they refused to grab any more. (I don't own one of those nifty pullers with a cup that screws down over the puller jaw and forces/holds them outwards. That would have been really helpful.) Anyway, now I had an even bigger gap under the race. I cut two pieces of 1/4" thick aluminum, long enough to drop down through the largest diameter and then slide outward until they looked like this. Invert it (again over a ring sized to support the sleeve and give the race somewhere to go) and knocked the race out the rest of the way from above.

IMG_3442.JPG
It was the other end that was more difficult. Here you can see a little heat got to the sleeve in the process but it is still nice and round and cleaned up nicely.
IMG_3444.JPG
 
Here are a few more pics just in case someone follows me with the same problem. Don't know why the pics are on their side. The R8 spindle is carried in a sleeve with a bearing at the top and one at the bottom. Here it is just out of the mill head.

View attachment 130749

Pulling the spindle requires loosening the preload nuts - those suckers were TIGHT - I supported the spindle in my lathe with a center in the tailstock so I could focus on the nuts.
View attachment 130750

I think this device is called a bearing separator - the opposite side of the two plates are beveled to a fairly sharp edge. As you can see from the 1st pic above there was not enough room to get any sort of puller between the spindle and sleeve. Here it has already come most of the way out.


View attachment 130751

Once the spindle was out it was easy to pop out the bearings. The larger race had space below it - I was able to get in there with puller jaws and get it part way up - then they refused to grab any more. (I don't own one of those nifty pullers with a cup that screws down over the puller jaw and forces/holds them outwards. That would have been really helpful.) Anyway, now I had an even bigger gap under the race. I cut two pieces of 1/4" thick aluminum, long enough to drop down through the largest diameter and then slide outward until they looked like this. Invert it (again over a ring sized to support the sleeve and give the race somewhere to go) and knocked the race out the rest of the way from above.

View attachment 130752
It was the other end that was more difficult. Here you can see a little heat got to the sleeve in the process but it is still nice and round and cleaned up nicely.
View attachment 130753

good info
fixit
 
Thanks for posting, I didn't know about the welding trick to get a race out.
Mike
 
Good job! The welding of the bead around the race always works. Do that on a lot of triple tree bearing races on motorcycles. In rare occasions, I've used a Dremel to cut the race just about through and then use a chisel to pop it.

The list that Ulma Doctor has is right on.
 
I had never heard that trick either, but will store it away for future application. :D
 
Thanks again......
P.S. - My spindle doesn't have taper bearings, even though the manual says it does. Just straight ball bearings. It is rated for 5000 RPM though.....

View attachment 130746
Glad that it worked out for you. the bearings are probably angular race bearings which are designed to be used in opposing pairs which are pre-loaded during assembly.

They will likely have markings on the sides that fit together, if you install one backwards nothing good will result from that.
 
You might've also been able to take a dremel type tool, and with a thin cutoff wheel (Dremel's EZ lock system with fiberglass reinforced cutoff wheels are very good) and cut an angled groove in the edge of the race, then it should basically pop free
 
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