Help with threading dial issue

[Investigator]

Logan 12" 2537 lathe.....

The threading dial leans away from the lead screw. the entire assembly of the dial sits in such a way that the top leans toward the bed of the lathe, and the bottom of the dial assembly where the gear is leans out away from the lead screw.

I have played at threading, and pushed the dial into the screw and it turns as 'normal' as far as I can tell.

Is this right or wrong? How to I address this?

 

[Bob Korves]

That is correct. Made sure the pivot bolt is tight enough to keep the dial assembly from accidentally swinging out when in use. There is little load on it, but you really don't want it to accidentally disengage while threading.

 

[Investigator]

That is correct. Made sure the pivot bolt is tight enough to keep the dial assembly from accidentally swinging out when in use. There is little load on it, but you really don't want it to accidentally disengage while threading.

When the mounting bolt is tight, it does not hold the assembly tight. I would need to add a washer to hold it snug and keep it from rotating. Is that what I need to do?

 

[Dave Paine]

Either add a washer or trim a little off the length of the bolt, sounds like your bolt is bottoming out.

You want to tweak the tightness so it can be pivoted by hand but snug enough to keep it engaged with the lead screw when you need to thread.

I only engage my thread dial when threading. Saves wear and tear on the gear in the threading dial.

 

[Tozguy]

My thread dial screw does not have a washer. Shortening the screw a bit (if it is indeed bottoming) would be plan A for me. It needs to be a solid hold so it stays engaged. Disengage the dial when not being used as Dave mentioned.

 

[Investigator]

Thanks for all the help. I was able to add a washer and can now tighten it just enough to have some tension. Started practicing threading last night with it. Thread dial works great, but there seems to be a loose nut on the controls.......Threading didn't look so good. More practice needed.

 

[magu]

A lot of machines can't seem to shake the "loose nut" problem

You'll get there.

 

[Technical Ted]

One suggestion I can offer, as long as you have everything set up properly and have a nice, sharp HSS cutting tool using a good cutting oil is to take light cuts towards the end and every few cuts, depending on the size of the thread and setup, take clean up passes where you don't move the cutting tool in farther (deeper), just let it clean up where it was on the previous cut.

Good luck and keep practicing!
Ted

 

[Investigator]

Well I'll be honest, I was 'playing around' for the most part. I knew some of the mechanics of cutting threads but not really what I was doing. I set the bit correctly, but didn't have the compound set at 29*, I was using the cross slide to feed in. I wasn't watching my depth, I was 'just cutting'. Mainly I was trying to see if I could.

Last night I watched a couple of Tublecain AKA Mr. Pete videos on threading. There was definitely an "Aha!" moment. I think next time I might actually get it right.

 

[wa5cab]

You want to tweak the tightness so it can be pivoted by hand but snug enough to keep it engaged with the lead screw when you need to thread.

I only engage my thread dial when threading. Saves wear and tear on the gear in the threading dial.

I have to comment that you are trading off wear on the gear and shaft for wear and tear on the half nuts and the risk of only getting them partially closed. My threading dial has been engaged for almost all of it's 36 years (bought the machine new in 1981) and I use it for all half nut closings.