- Joined
- Aug 29, 2013
- Messages
- 1,050
Might I ask where?
-
Welcome back Guest! Did you know you can mentor other members here at H-M? If not, please check out our Relaunch of Hobby Machinist Mentoring Program!
[How do I?] Help With Building A Stand For Lathe
- Thread starter craftedmagazine
- Start date
Might I ask where?
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2013
- Messages
- 1,190
A knockdown bench is really not a bad idea. However, it should be built well. My son has just moved from Colorado to Montana for a new job. He had to leave his workbench, which was too big to store. Either that or leave his Sheldon 10" lathe (NO WAY!
). I guess in a couple of months, I'll help him build a new one.
![disgust[1].png](https://www.hobby-machinist.com/data/attachments/87/87012-80a3a3285c96ebab3db58329e5b71d6c.jpg "disgust[1].png")
). I guess in a couple of months, I'll help him build a new one.
- Joined
- May 17, 2016
- Messages
- 13
Here you go!
The lathe came with a chip tray that will go under the lathe. It's really nicely designed, raised lip around the entire edge to keep oil in check.
If it is still time why not put a drain fitting in the pan so the oil can drain continuously into a container? That's one of the first things that were done on my lathe. Way oil and cutting oil can accumulate quickly and is messy.
- Joined
- May 17, 2016
- Messages
- 13
Built the stand today. Seems solid as a brick outhouse. Buying an Harbor Freight crane tomorrow to get the lathe onto the stand, wish me luck.
Modified my plans a bit based on a few screw ups I had during the build. Also added a backing board for more lateral stiffness since I had some on hand from a previous project.
Modified my plans a bit based on a few screw ups I had during the build. Also added a backing board for more lateral stiffness since I had some on hand from a previous project.
Last edited by a moderator:
- Joined
- May 17, 2016
- Messages
- 13
Here's the build video:
Here's the accompanying article with a cutlist, cutting diagram, and SketchUp file if any of you want to build one similar.
http://craftedmagazine.com/build-metal-lathe-stand/
Here's the accompanying article with a cutlist, cutting diagram, and SketchUp file if any of you want to build one similar.
http://craftedmagazine.com/build-metal-lathe-stand/
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2015
- Messages
- 894
That looks great! One nitpick: "Select pine" is not hardwood trim. 
"Solid wood trim" would be more appropriate wording.
Are you up for a little constructive feedback about your finishing trouble? How about a ton of info I just felt like writing up on the subject?
Lacquer finish would not be my first choice for a project where there will be a variety of chemicals used. Polyurethane would be more appropriate here. It's a real tradeoff, as lacquer dries relatively quickly, at least to the point of applying additional coats, while oil-based poly takes ages to cure, so the finishing process really takes a while. A lot of people go with water based poly for that reason (Polycrylic is the most common name), but it lacks the warm color of the oil based variety and it has a greater tendency to raise the wood grain due to the water content. Lacquer is favored for projects which may need to be refinished later, such as an end table or other heavy use item, because applying additional coats years later results in the solvent carrier of the new lacquer dissolving the top most layer of the old lacquer, then drying & curing together for a seamless finish (if done right). Poly cures permanently (and quite durably; it's a plastic film), so future coats cannot be blended with the old ones. You can't sand it carefully to feather out a flaw in one layer, for instance. Anyway, the fact that the lacquer can be re-dissolved makes it non-ideal as a finish for a bench in a metal workshop.
The sandpaper finish you experienced was most likely the result of A) spraying from too far away, so the finish partially dries before landing, and you can't get a proper "wet out" which would greatly improve the finish of each coat; and B) not sanding between coats. I use about 320-400 grit between coats, VERY LIGHTLY just to remove the uneven surface without removing the bulk of the coat, and 1000 grit on the final coat. Those tiny bits of dried finish as well as bits of dust in the air combine to make a rough surface that has to be knocked down. You may have slightly raised the wood grain as well, though not as much as a water based finish would have.
"Sanding sealer" and "stain conditioner" products are typically a dilute lacquer which soaks into the wood grain and raising it slightly. After applying it you sand it back down lightly (220-320 grit works IMHO), but the lacquer remaining in the fibers prevents later coats from raising the grain, and prevents stain from soaking in. The stain then sits on top of the surface for a more even color but at the expense of any depth. Either product can be quite effective at improving the quality of your finish. Shellac would also be an excellent option for that "primer" coat. It's also an excellent final coat, as it is both compatible with and resistant to oils and water (but dissolves readily in alcohol). Just make sure you use de-waxed shellac if you want to try it as an underlying layer.
Finally after that last coat that gets sanded around 1000 grit (or even higher if you have it), you can buff it with rubbing then polishing compounds, and finally with paste wax, for a "French finish". Many gorgeous finishes you've seen may have had some of that "sandpaper" quality when first sprayed. I actually do that with my poly finishes as well, though with poly once you sand it with anything, no matter how fine, it can be very difficult to get a true gloss with any amount of buffing/polishing afterward. Semi-gloss is a good goal there.
HVLP will most likely help, as you will have finer control of the spray, but it won't do anything about those other factors without a well-designed and well-constructed dust-free negative pressure spray booth. And then you have to consider the tremendously combustible nature of nitrocellulose lacquer.
ALL of that said, for my shop projects I just use a blend of turpentine, beeswax, and boiled linseed oil. I keep some in a quart size paint can on the shelf. The turpentine dissolves the beeswax (alternatively you can just heat the product before using it to melt the wax). I do two coats, about half an hour apart. The linseed oil soaks into the wood and cures/hardens over the following week, while the beeswax mostly stays on the surface. After a couple hours for the turpentine to evaporate and the linseed oil to completely soak in, I buff the wax. That's it. I can apply more wax (I use paste wax for any future maintenance) if it ever becomes necessary, but it rarely is and it works very well to keep things clean. Oils and water just bead up and can be wiped off without a trace. Did I mention that it's CHEAP? Great stuff. I've even used it on woodworking products I've sold, as the beeswax is a very pleasant finish with an equally pleasant aroma.
"Solid wood trim" would be more appropriate wording. Are you up for a little constructive feedback about your finishing trouble? How about a ton of info I just felt like writing up on the subject?
Lacquer finish would not be my first choice for a project where there will be a variety of chemicals used. Polyurethane would be more appropriate here. It's a real tradeoff, as lacquer dries relatively quickly, at least to the point of applying additional coats, while oil-based poly takes ages to cure, so the finishing process really takes a while. A lot of people go with water based poly for that reason (Polycrylic is the most common name), but it lacks the warm color of the oil based variety and it has a greater tendency to raise the wood grain due to the water content. Lacquer is favored for projects which may need to be refinished later, such as an end table or other heavy use item, because applying additional coats years later results in the solvent carrier of the new lacquer dissolving the top most layer of the old lacquer, then drying & curing together for a seamless finish (if done right). Poly cures permanently (and quite durably; it's a plastic film), so future coats cannot be blended with the old ones. You can't sand it carefully to feather out a flaw in one layer, for instance. Anyway, the fact that the lacquer can be re-dissolved makes it non-ideal as a finish for a bench in a metal workshop.
The sandpaper finish you experienced was most likely the result of A) spraying from too far away, so the finish partially dries before landing, and you can't get a proper "wet out" which would greatly improve the finish of each coat; and B) not sanding between coats. I use about 320-400 grit between coats, VERY LIGHTLY just to remove the uneven surface without removing the bulk of the coat, and 1000 grit on the final coat. Those tiny bits of dried finish as well as bits of dust in the air combine to make a rough surface that has to be knocked down. You may have slightly raised the wood grain as well, though not as much as a water based finish would have.
"Sanding sealer" and "stain conditioner" products are typically a dilute lacquer which soaks into the wood grain and raising it slightly. After applying it you sand it back down lightly (220-320 grit works IMHO), but the lacquer remaining in the fibers prevents later coats from raising the grain, and prevents stain from soaking in. The stain then sits on top of the surface for a more even color but at the expense of any depth. Either product can be quite effective at improving the quality of your finish. Shellac would also be an excellent option for that "primer" coat. It's also an excellent final coat, as it is both compatible with and resistant to oils and water (but dissolves readily in alcohol). Just make sure you use de-waxed shellac if you want to try it as an underlying layer.
Finally after that last coat that gets sanded around 1000 grit (or even higher if you have it), you can buff it with rubbing then polishing compounds, and finally with paste wax, for a "French finish". Many gorgeous finishes you've seen may have had some of that "sandpaper" quality when first sprayed. I actually do that with my poly finishes as well, though with poly once you sand it with anything, no matter how fine, it can be very difficult to get a true gloss with any amount of buffing/polishing afterward. Semi-gloss is a good goal there.
HVLP will most likely help, as you will have finer control of the spray, but it won't do anything about those other factors without a well-designed and well-constructed dust-free negative pressure spray booth. And then you have to consider the tremendously combustible nature of nitrocellulose lacquer.
ALL of that said, for my shop projects I just use a blend of turpentine, beeswax, and boiled linseed oil. I keep some in a quart size paint can on the shelf. The turpentine dissolves the beeswax (alternatively you can just heat the product before using it to melt the wax). I do two coats, about half an hour apart. The linseed oil soaks into the wood and cures/hardens over the following week, while the beeswax mostly stays on the surface. After a couple hours for the turpentine to evaporate and the linseed oil to completely soak in, I buff the wax. That's it. I can apply more wax (I use paste wax for any future maintenance) if it ever becomes necessary, but it rarely is and it works very well to keep things clean. Oils and water just bead up and can be wiped off without a trace. Did I mention that it's CHEAP? Great stuff. I've even used it on woodworking products I've sold, as the beeswax is a very pleasant finish with an equally pleasant aroma.
- Joined
- May 17, 2016
- Messages
- 13
Thanks for the comments guys, especially the finishing tips!
Hah, yea the video title is a bit on the confusing size.
I grew up in Atlanta and am now living in North Carolina. I've lived in FL and MA in between so my Southern accent got lost along the way. It's slowly coming back though, the more I'm around Southerners, the more I hear it in my voice.
Hah, yea the video title is a bit on the confusing size.
John,
I enjoyed the video, no humming and hawing, moves right along, great work all around. Thanks.
Makes it obvious why you chose to make the stand out of wood!
What happened to your Carolina accent?
I grew up in Atlanta and am now living in North Carolina. I've lived in FL and MA in between so my Southern accent got lost along the way. It's slowly coming back though, the more I'm around Southerners, the more I hear it in my voice.