Help sleeveing a drive shaft Flange

R

racprops

Registered
Registered
Joined
Nov 9, 2023
Messages
16
Plan was to machine the shaft to fit with some slip into a 6009-2RS Bearing.

The ID of this bearing is: By my digital caliber is 44.69Mm or 1.762

By manufacture: 45MM or 1.771654

My mistake was using a turning tool that uses triangle cutting blades held in place by a single screw.

It worked loose and took a deeper cut that I wanted, thus my flange was machined too small.

My idea of a repair is to put a sleeve onto the flanges shaft.

I need advice on what type of steel tubing, where can I find 45MM OD tubing, suggested wall thickness, and best press fitting for this sleeve to be pressed onto the original Flange.

Rich

Here is the flanged before turning mistake and what it is going on.
 

Attachments

  • A rear flange.jpg
    A rear flange.jpg
    227.3 KB · Views: 41
  • Nearly complete.jpg
    Nearly complete.jpg
    1,008.7 KB · Views: 39
Build up the shaft with weld, then turn it back down to size. You know, "Measure it once, cut it once, weld it back together, then measure and cut again!"
 
You need to check your measurement of the ID again, the bore should be 45-44.988mm on that bearing. Calipers are a poor choice for measurements like this, do you have telescoping gages and micrometers?

Sleeving it will reduce the strength of the shaft, so welding it to build it back up snd remachining as SLK mentioned, or having it plated and ground to size would be preferable.
 
I would look for another shaft- trying to sleeve something that's part of a drive train is going to be marginal
Unless you can build it up with weld and machine it down (which may warp the shaft)
 
If you cannot purchase a new one, then I would suggest flame spray and machine to size. I believe that weld build-up would warp the internal splines. Is there not a lip seal where the shaft installs? Not understanding how a double sealed bearing is going to seal against a moving output shaft. My .02
 
Industrial plating might be the best here, used to have it done to diesel cranks all the time. They would grind, plate and grind back to original dimension.
 
How much too small are you?

A good engine shop could weld it up, then grind to size.

They do this on crankshafts all the time.

Should not be that expensive.

Or, if you have a mig welder you could weld it yourself.

Best to locate a replacement, wrecking yard or ??

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
Of course simply going and getting a new shaft that is all good will be your 100% solution. I’m guessing that you have/are looking into that option, but want to consider other options might be available. Certainly any “repairs” will be less than 100%, but several of the options will still be very good. The options presented above are all good.

Chrome plating is good, the application temperature is low so there is little risk of distortion, they will need to undercut the shaft a bit (slight strength reduction) and the chrome will be fully captured by the bearing (no possibility of it flaking off) - applying the chrome is probably not something the average person could do at home.

There are quite a few shaft metallizing methods, all have there plus/minus: chrome, copper, aero nickel, plasma spray, laser clad, HVOF and many others (seems there is a new procedure coming out every year). Looks like there are lots of shops in Phoenix.

Weldup is very good, it can be done as a home job (not really for a newbie if the part matters very much), there will be distortion, which will need to be managed.

Sleeving it is really quite straightforward (very doable for a home machinist). As a repair method, sleeving is very common. There will be a bit of strength reduction (the sleeve doesn’t contribute to the strength), the sleeve wall needs to be at least 0.025” thick when finished (0.050” thick wall would be better). I would be surprised if the component was designed so close to the allowable stress for that material that reducing the effective diameter a bit would make a difference. For the sleeve, simply use bar stock(i.e. 2”) and take the OD to ~1.80” for the installation, and bore it to about 1.70”. As others have pointed out, you need to get your measurement precision sorted out. The sleeve needs to be 0.0015“ - 0.0017” interference fit to the shaft (the calipers are not the tool for the job). Measure the sleeve bore accurately and skim the shaft to 0.0015” over that number (too bad the shaft isn’t stepped), can you just sleeve where the bearing and seal are located (and undercut the rest)? Make yourself a nice installation driver (you have to be totally ready, ready) the installation time for a small sleeve is only a couple seconds (if you fail then cut it off). Heat the sleeve to about 350F (cool the shaft - liquid N2 works really well, CO2 and alcohol is pretty good, even your home freezer is better than nothing) - cooling the shaft gives a little more clearance, but it also gives you a little more working time. Set your telescopic gauge to the target size of the expanded sleeve (shaft size plus about 0.001”) and check the sleeve before placing it - it won’t hurt the telescopic gauge, only takes about a second to confirm the sleeve is larger than target (the actual size doesn’t matter, so long as it is a bit larger than needed).

Let us know how you make out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top