Help Needed - SB Heavy 10 - Brass Tubes for Spindle Bearing Wicks

[opsoff1]

Looking for some expert advice / pictures / diagrams...anything.
Quick synopsis: Unknown previous owner / "rebuilder" clearly installed the spindle bearings incorrectly and did not line up the brass tubes in the headstock with the holes in the bronze bearings. The brass tubes were pushed down flush. I was able to pull them up to the correct height without them rotating. At the correct height - they block the transfer holes from the oil cups. It appears that they were at some point rotated and almost completely blocked these holes.
Fast forward and I was able to extract them completely out. The bottom is cut at a 45deg angle - the long side was what blocked the oil passage.
So - what are the actual correct brass tubes supposed to look like and how are they oriented?
I have new brass tubing inbound tomorrow.
I don't know if these are original or some hack fix that someone cobbled together.

Any help - picture, diagram, drawing, link etc - anything would help.
The correct nomenclature is "Oiler Tube PT522R1" (2 reqd)

TIA

 

[JBTEK]

I don't know if this will be any help to you, but here's the only photo I have of this area, when reassembling. When I refurbed my heavy 10 I did not touch the brass tubes. They seemed to be pressed in place, the bearings had been properly lubed and were in good shape, so I left those pieces alone; just cleaned. I did replace the wick-spring assemblies.

 

[SLK001]

So - what are the actual correct brass tubes supposed to look like and how are they oriented?

Those two look original. Maybe someone filed enough material from them so that they fit flush. They are there as simply a guide for the oiling wicks. The angle cut is only so that the tubes don't block oil from wetting the wicks. I don't know if the tubes actually bottom out in the oil sump. A properly installed tube would be proud of the bearing mount by ~ 0.080" or so. Orientation should have the holes in the tubes facing front and the backwards slope (or longer side) to the side of the sump. The hole is for the insertion of a stiff wire (through the hole where the top pipe plug is) to hold down the wicks during assembly. You could still install the spindle with the wicks up, using the spindle itself to push them down, but the wire method is "less dramatic".

I don't know how a H10 bronze bearing could be installed incorrectly. I believe that there were some pre-war H10s with bronze bearings. I don't know if the bearing config of any pre-war H10 (if they exist at all) was different from the post-war bronze bearing setup. In a post-war bronze setup, the expanders can only go in one place, hence the bearings can only go in one place. Alignment would be automatic.

 

[opsoff1]

Does the long side of the angle cut orient towards the rear of the headstock? Mine were rotated so that the long side was facing the front and basically blocked the oil passage from the oil cups.
What I was trying to say was that I believed the bearings were installed in a way that pushed the tubes down. Reading back what I wrote - sounds unclear.
Based on the length - they definitely don't bottom out. I'll be making new ones today. Having removed them - this will give me an opportunity to REALLY clean the oil passages. BTW - this a war machine (1945) and has the bronze bearings.
Appreciate the input SLK.

TIA

 

[SLK001]

BTW - this a war machine (1945) and has the bronze bearings.

A 1945 H10 would have had cast iron bearings. Your lathe might be a "frankenlathe", with the headstock from a later lathe. As for the angle, it really doesn't matter, as they are just to allow the oil to enter the wick freely. I still don't see how you could install the bearings in a way which pushes the tubes down. How can someone be that far off alignment? They would have had to install the spindle with a hammer.

 

[opsoff1]

If the previous owner didn't line up the tubes with the hole in the bearing the weight alone could pushed them down. I was able to pop mine up with a little hook. I could push them down again with heavy thumb pressure. Getting them completely out was a different story.
The headstock PN matches the original invoice and was ordered in early 1945. So.....???

 

[opsoff1]

New tubes made - test fit & ready to install. I'll drill the oil return holes when they are in as well as the hole to hold down the spring wicks once they are in the headstock. I probably could have left the old ones in - but with all the work I've done (going on 10 months) - why take a short cut now. The added bonus was the ability to get all the oil passages completely clean - there was some old gunk down inside.
Thank you to all that chimed in.