Help? B'port clone, cant get spindle out

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So, I'm sort of getting started with my rebuild/refurb/clean/whatever of my B'port clone mill. Other plans aside for now, I tried to pull the spindle to confirm what bearings I have so I can order replacements. I pulled the cap, and started tapping the spindle, it moves out about 1/2 or 3/4 inch then seems to hit something and won't move any farther. I can push it back in to the quill by hand and soft tapping brings it out again. I've tried doing it in both vortical and horizontal and get the same issue. I'm afraid to force it, but I cant figure out what could be holding it. I'm looking for ideas. Pics for illustration of how far it comes out:20220429_175550[1].jpg20220429_175624[1].jpg
20220429_175724[1].jpg

Just to be clear; I removed the socket head screw on the quill holding the nose cap, then unscrewed the cap itself (this was left hand threads which seemed odd), then tapped on the spindle with a punch and rubber mallet. It advances out as far as you see here in pics and seems to hit something, a ledge, a screw, something that immediately stops it.
 
If it's built like a BP, I can't think of anything that would be stopping it. I am by no means any kind of an expert. I just completed a rebuild of my BP a couple months back. Had it nearly completely apart. The only thing holding the spindle in the quill, besides the press fit on the bearings, is the nose guard.

I had mine apart when I took out the spindle, but I just held the quill down to the bench and hit it with a dead blow. Probably the wrong way to do it, but like I said, no expert, just a hobbyist.

Here's a video I made of the disassembly. The spindle removal starts at 11:12. Hope this helps.

 
Did you take the screw out at the top end that holds the oil felt on? Or maybe one that just overhangs the sheet-metal shield?
 
Did you take the screw out at the top end that holds the oil felt on? Or maybe one that just overhangs the sheet-metal shield?
That screw goes into the quill, not sure how that could interfere with removing the spindle.

Yuchol from Woods Creek Workshop replaced the spindle on his PM machine. He replaced it in situ as well. It's how I got the idea of pressing my spindle back in place.

 
That screw goes into the quill, not sure how that could interfere with removing the spindle.

Yea good point.

I couldn’t get my reverse trip ball lever out so couldn’t remove my quill, and didn’t realize until later so could get the spindle out separately. I haven’t yet done so but want to check the nut is tight as I seem to have some play.
 
I can't imagine anything 'catching' and stopping the spindle from coming out. However, it is a Taiwan clone, so I guess anything is possible. Still, part of me wants to just hammer the spindle out. I've been trying to keep that monster under control for years.
 
If it were me, I wouldn't just hammer it out. But I might take the top end off and do a partial disassembly of the quill housing. Get the quill out and then you might have a better look at what it might be. If you can't see anything, go from there.
 
I saw one where bolt that attaches the travel stop on the quill is to long and sticks in just enough you cannot get the top bearing past it until removed. Then it removed easy enough.

Out of curiosity, do you remember the maker? Was it a clone? Not that it matters, just curious.

I think this is very likely what it is, it makes sense, in fact its the only thing I could imagine that would be there. But, it really fouls up my plans. My mill is sitting to the side, but basically in the middle of my shop. My plan was to remove the head, then the ram, then the knee, and take the bare body out for a good wash with purple power. Then start filling the paint dents and finally a good (ish) painting. Then move the body to the location where the mill will live. Then same process with knee, then ram, then head. The head is going to be last so I don't have it apart for months and then try to remember where it all is and how to get it back together.

Guess I'll have to wait and order bearings when I get to that point.
 
You could pull just that screw out as long as you can get the reverse trip ball lever out. Have to remove the depth-stop screw to get to the bolt in question. I think?
 
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