Headstock Bearing Lubrication Question

[PGB1]

Hello All!
I have a South Bend 34-BQ 13-Inch from 1922. When I got it (in pieces) many years ago, I called South Bend & spoke with a technician about selecting proper oil. She told me to use Mobil Velocite Number 10 Heavy Medium Spindle Oil ISO VG22. But, I either didn't ask or forgot how much to feed the bearings.

I believe the bearings are bronze. The bearings are two-piece and the top half has holes & grooves in it to let oil move around the shaft. There's a photo attached where you can see part of one bearing.

Long ago, I installed McCoy type oilers above each headstock bearing. (Originally they had bolts in the holes.)
I've got the oilers adjusted to deliver one drop every 30 seconds. I did some bench testing & found that I am delivering 1-1/2 ml per hour (About 0.051 fluid oz or 1/3 teaspoon per hour).
During use, oil does leave the bearings and flows down the casting, so at least I know the oil is getting to the bearings & hopefully the shaft.

I have felt the bearing caps during use & they stay relatively cool. My maximum available spindle speed is 1064 rpm, but I very rarely use that speed. (For general work, I often end up using 420 or 271 rpm.)

Do you all think I am delivering enough oil to protect the bearings?
Conversely, am I giving it too much oil?

Thanks For Sharing Your Knowledge!
Paul

 

[dlane]

Can't tell from the little pic but my SB 10L has a oil sump with oil cups u keep full , it is felt wicks that supply oil to the bearings.

 

[DoogieB]

Sounds good to me. It ain't a Swiss watch after all.

As Dlane mentioned, the newer SB's use a wick to supply oil to the bearings and much of the oil overflow from the bearings returns to the oil sump so it's difficult to compare. I usually just top-off the Gits oilers on my 10K but it doesn't really use that much spindle oil at all.

If the bearings are cool you should be fine.

 

[Silverbullet]

I would just say more oil in the bearing is better than less !! oil absorb and cat litter is a easy clean up around any spill or overflow .

 

[rock_breaker]

DoogieB + 1. My Clausing has tapered bearings with a reservoir but I get oil going down the casting under the head shaft. So Silverbullet has indicated my philosophy.
Ray

 

[Pete Wass]

The old South Bends have the top oilers. I don't know if they have wicks but would doubt it. Regarding the amount of oil; the South Bend lathes use a total loss system, regardless of which type they are. In your case, I think I would adjust until you minimize the amount of oil being expelled. You should see some but too much is not necessary, if that is at all clear. I guess, do what you feel is comfortable but you are on the right track with feeling for heat. The wick and sump South Bends do warm up when they are running normally, just warm.

Pete

 

[PGB1]

Thanks All For Helping Out!
I apologize for the small photo dimensions. I can't figure out how to bigify it. New picutres also came in small. (Something to figure out when I quit turning all the steel I can find around here!)

I'll run with More Is Better & keep the bearings warm, not hot.

For wicks, when I assembled the headstock, I put in some dense felt pieces in the holes where the oilers mount. When I did that, I had filtering in mind (in case a particle somehow got into the oil), but the felt pieces do touch the top of the holes in the bearings. All of the oil cups for the other bearings & screws also have wicks. (And I pressed in little cups with lids. The holes were open when I bought this tool.)

I don't have a sump for the headstock bearing oil, so the excess runs out. But, there's not much in the way of clean up to do.
The spindle end oil runs into the chip tray, so that's no problem at all. When I built the tray, I put in a screened fitting for draining oil & coolant.
For the bearing at the other end of the headstock, I have a small stainless tray with rosin paper inside to soak up the oil. One of my brothers is a Haz-Mat guy and has access to earth-safe disposal, so that's really nice.

I'll try oil absorb or cat litter that you mentioned, Silverbullet. That will be an even easier clean up. Thanks for the great idea.
When I spill oil on the pavement (or my truck spills for me), I use mortar. It sucks up the oil & removes the discoloration quite well.
But, for the lathe, I like Silverbullet's idea better. (Why have any gritty, abrasive mortar anywhere near my lathe?)

Thanks Again For Helping Out Everybody!
Enjoy This Day,
Paul