Grinder Problem

tmenyc

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I have a Dewalt 756, a 6" bench grinder with 1/2" arbor, . When I got it I put in two AO wheels, Norton 36 grit and 80 grit, 1" hole, 3/4" wide wheels with plastic bushings. I put it on a Wen pedestal, and mounted the pedestal on a piece of 1/2" plywood. The drill itself is mounted on 1/2" ply to raise it a bit and to give me more space around it. I did not, as has been suggested, fill the pedestal with sand or rocks, but hold it still with my foot when it's running.
The drill's vibration level is pretty high, and it has twice shaken off a bolt holding the grinder rest in place. When I shut it down, the vibration develops a pounding harmonic.
Today a friend, who has serious skills in just about everything except machining came over to help me install a shelf over the lathe and to replace the lathe's nearly shot drum switch with a newer one I got hold of. We got the shelf up, but when I had to grind down a couple of the screws he needed, he immediately said that the grinder is making far too much noise, far too much vibration. My thought was that it was not on a bench and the pedestal was too light; he was certain that was not the problem. At first we thought the shaft might have been bent. We pulled both wheels; there is no vibration with the wheels off, it hums, smooth and perfectly straight. We reinstalled the wheels, wrenched them in tight, and the vibration did not go away. And, it still looks as if it's not running completely round. His view is that the plastic bushings have too much play and the runout is causing the vibration. I searched online for a replacement wheel but everything I saw has the same plastic bushings. Should I have gotten a grinding wheel with a 1/2" hole to match the arbor? It seems to me that they sell thousands of them with the bushings, they can't all be bad ideas. Do I have bad bushings? The wrong wheels? What am I missing here?

Many thanks, as always,
Tim
 
if you were so inclined, you could turn your own bushings, to fit the wheel.

excessive arbor/shaft/wheel clearance is a recipe for disaster.

be sure to true up (dress) the wheel after you mount it with a tool like this-

298518
 
thanks; I dress it regularly. Is excessive clearance a common issue? Is the wheel hole diameter just not close enough? I see that MSC sells a range of AO 6" wheels, all with 1" holes and bushings, either with or extra purchase. Is this just a bad wheel?
 
It is also possible to shim small gaps between bushings and the holes in the wheels to take out the slop. Try to pick something of consistent thickness that will fill the gap in just one complete rotation, without any overlap. Even cardboard or paper can work, but not ideal. Plastic sheet or metal sheet work well. If there is still vibration after getting everything running concentrically, then you will need to balance (or replace) the wheel or wheels that cause it. Get back to this thread if you continue to have problems.
 
Mikey,
That's probably the best solution..
Bob -- To see if this is a quick fix, I measured shim, down to .002, cut a piece of it to fit and got it together. There is still a tiny bit of play between two of the smaller bushings, a touch under .001. How tight must they be? Not sure I could get delrin to be more exact than this.
 
Bob -- To see if this is a quick fix, I measured shim, down to .002, cut a piece of it to fit and got it together. There is still a tiny bit of play between two of the smaller bushings, a touch under .001. How tight must they be? Not sure I could get delrin to be more exact than this.
Try it and see. It may be close enough. Then again, many cheap wheels have very poor distribution of weight, and about the only thing you can do with them is to have a precision balancer and remove small amounts of material in some areas to make them better balanced. Good wheels usually bolt on to a decent grinder and run well right from the beginning and all the way through their lives.
 
Is Norton not thought to be a good wheel? If not, what is?
Tim
 
You might try running one wheel at a time to determine if one is possibly ok and then you would know which one needs balancing.
It's also a possibility that "clocking" the two wheels could eliminate imbalance between the two wheels, if neither runs smooth by itself.
Put a felt tip mark on each wheel at the same clock position when installed, run and see how bad the imbalance is, then move one wheel 1/4 turn and rerun noting imbalance, continue till you find the spot where it runs smooth. Might not improve but then again it might.
 
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