Graham Meeks auto thread cutting clutch for South Bend

Another project to put on the list.
 
I have finished making all the parts for the threading clutch. Having trouble getting it to shift in and out of gear not sure what is binding up yet
 
Jason
Did you oil every thing with a fine oil. Does all the parts move freely on the mating parts and maybe check the clearance? I have done that so many times I can not count, maybe let it sit and go for a ride or anything to get your mind off of it, then come back with a fresh set of eyes on it.
Good luck, I want to make one so bad it hurts. Just too many things to finish.
Nelson
 
All these post and not one single pic,:encourage: should be pics of making each part then testing the fit etc.
 
Agree Pics of things would be nice, Trying to figure out if I want to try and make something like that.
 
Yes your right i just have to look at it again but it will be late this weekend before i can. Thank you for your suport
 
Hi COMachinist,
Thank you for this generous posting. I have an early South Bend 9" Model A (has a locking cap screw, not a plunger handle on the tumbler/reverse assembly. Would your design be applicable to my machine? Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
COMachinist said:
If any one is interested in making one for your South Bend lathe I can post the drawings for the Dog/Threading Clutch. You can see how it work here. I'm not sure but I think the Monarch tool room lathe work like this. Just let me know if you want them posted.
Thanks
CH
Click to expand...
Hi CO, me again,
I studied the drawings and, of course, have a bunch of questions now. My lathe has 18 DP gears from the spindle to the QC gear box. Evidently the SB 9" Model A workshop lathe used 16, 18 and 20 DP gears (18 being the most common) at various points in its long production. Changing the counter bore diameters and center distances will be easy enough.
**Can you tell me what the two 10-32 tapped holes in the operators' end of the main body block are for?
** Also, there is a .3125" hole in the back side with two aligned holes in the outboard side. Is this for a forward-neutral-revers detent? IF so, should the matching #43 holes in the detent plate be on an arc rather than a straight line?
Thanks in advance,
FC
 
F. C.eff said:
Hi CO, me again,
I studied the drawings and, of course, have a bunch of questions now. My lathe has 18 DP gears from the spindle to the QC gear box. Evidently the SB 9" Model A workshop lathe used 16, 18 and 20 DP gears (18 being the most common) at various points in its long production. Changing the counter bore diameters and center distances will be easy enough.
**Can you tell me what the two 10-32 tapped holes in the operators' end of the main body block are for?
** Also, there is a .3125" hole in the back side with two aligned holes in the outboard side. Is this for a forward-neutral-revers detent? IF so, should the matching #43 holes in the detent plate be on an arc rather than a straight line?
Thanks in advance,
FC
Click to expand...
I just measured the gears on my lathe.............The spindle, idler gears and internal stud gear are 20 DP on my lathe. The outer stud gear and change gears between the tumbler reverse gear assemble and the QC gear box are 18 DP. Who knew? Maybe everyone but me. ;-(
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top