Go easy on me. First lathe "Project"

RandyM, I am definitely going to make another one. It didn't quite fit my wife's thumb. I was so focused on trying not to screw up too badly that I made the OD to the measurements I took of her thumb not the ID

On the bright side, you're out a lot less material screwing up a thimble than most other projects. One of my first projects was a 14" shaft for a band saw.
 
Make the wife happy, you will get more "toys" to play with in your shop!

Nice job for the first time! If I tried that with all the years of machining I've done, I'm not too sure I can make one in the first try.

Ken
 
Have the "client" come out and test fit before next step.

Insert finger here...allows you to custom fit like a Taylor and maybe earn bonus points that can be used later when trying to explain why you need something...

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Have the "client" come out and test fit before next step.
Insert finger here...allows you to custom fit like a Taylor and maybe earn bonus points that can be used later when trying to explain why you need something...

man, that's some smart thinking there tq60! ;)
 
A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.
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I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.
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Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544

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Not sure what type of knurling tool you are using but a SB9 will benefit from a scissor type knurl

Cheers Phil
 
Nice! I repeat what the others have said - practice, practice, practice. I took a machine shop evening adult-ed class at the local tech high school many years ago. After a lull of about 30 years, I was recently given a c.1966 Atlas 12" lathe with all the trimmings and am reacquainting myself with machining. Yes, there are many tremendously helpful videos out there - they're a godsend - but there's no substitute for an in-person expert mentor. Sadly, the tech school closed its machine shop some time ago. (Don't get me started on that ...) Luckily, we have a machine shop my department at the university where I work and it's staffed by a superb machinist/teacher whom I can always count on for advice. Check with your local tech school - if there is one - and even if they don't have a shop, they might have some suggestions about how you can connect with someone in the area who can guide you.
 
With a light lathe one reduces the speed to slow and pressure to light and let it work over time.

We had to do same with our L&S 16 which is a beast but we were knurling a part that was a 3/8 thick aluminum disc with a 5/16 recess on one side holding it by that with only about 1/16 reach on the inside so the tool would clear the jaws.

Took a very long time to get done due to light pressure but it got done.

Light lathes have same limit in that is addressed by limiting the power or rigidity of operations to that of the machine or setup.

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