general ways adjustment

You'd want to blue it and see what you have to deal with first. The blueing of sliding surfaces isn't overly complex but some imagination is needed. You are simply trying to find out exactly what is going on and making sure you address the problem and not make it worse. I'd take the compound off and inspect the gib. lay a drill rod into the dovetails (all 3 sans gib) and get a better idea of what is going on. If you have a real straight edge with 30° angle you can use it to blue.

I still don't recommend lapping or grinding because there is no good way to fix the previous grinding (wear) that causes your problem. The wear is normally caused by the sliding surfaces only being used on part of the travel for years.

If your gibs are most of the wear you can make new ones. If they are bowed don't try to straighten as they will break and the bow makes no difference. You can buy cast iron from most any of the online venders. ie http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-4253-8387-34-x-1-12-gray-cast-iron-class-40.aspx so as not to turn your cross slide into a lap.

I'm thinking the atlas has straight gibs so you can mic them down the length and it should be the same thickness down the length. Some lathes have tapered gibs which are wedge shaped and have an adjusting screw on each end to wedge them in as needed for adjustment. Tapered gibs should be a true angle.

Steve

Steve,
Excellent,
Im all over it. thanks so much Ill let you know how it turns out.
 
That is correct, the Atlas has straight gibs. The compound and top slide are straight with a 30 degree top and bottom, with little recess/ pockets for the gib screws. Usually about .125" thick but they are made semi custom for each lathe.

The saddle gib on the back is just a piece of square stock with 4 recess/pockets again for the screws. The bottom bearing plates, misnomer as they don't actually bear on anything, are flat stock again with 3 or 4 holes for the mounting bolts.

All are steel. At least they have been on all the ones I have seen to date.
Pierre

PS I never had a problem with metal scarf embedding into the brass gibs, but I was doing regular maintainence and no grinding on the lathe either. A clean lathe is a easier lathe to operate and safer too.
 
PS I never had a problem with metal scarf embedding into the brass gibs, but I was doing regular maintainence and no grinding on the lathe either. A clean lathe is a easier lathe to operate and safer too.

Hello Pierre, You certainly aren't wrong, we all do what we think best under the circumstances we have. My same points of logic could easily be turned against me by saying it would be better to use D2 to make the gibs. Any grit would stick in the ways ad lap the gibs which would be very tough. Our world is a continuing compromise as not all tools can be made of ceramic and we don't make titanium tool carts.

Steve
 
Ti tool cart! That would be a floater.

I have a Ti prybar. It is fun to tell someone to pick it up and watch them just about throw it in the air!:D

I just wish that the hot air balloon people would use Ti instead of wicker. Less dead bodies on the ground after a fire in the air.
 
I had mentioned a "real straightedge" I'd like to revisit it so that if anyone sees one they will snatch it up. I saw this one and thought "that would be handy".
OK we are having more changes and I will just post the pics as "post inline" has scurried off to another dimension..

One is a 24" straight edge on the milling table sitting in 2 dovetails.
T'other is a closeup of the 2 dovetails and their not antiquate alignment.

Steve

strtedge24F.JPG IMGP2775.JPG
 
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