G4003G gets Aloris QCTP, tooling, and Bison 6 jaw SetTru chuck upgrade!

[Boswell]

I installed the DroPros Magnetic scales to my G4003 a couple of months ago and it is easily one of the best things I have added to my shop. I have the same head that Coolridge shows and have not been bothered by the "extra" buttons.

+1 for the tool height setting gizmo.

 

[coolidge]

I too like the machine specific buttons, although mine will likely stay in Continental/diameter mode most of the time. I will also get the higher resolution glass scale for X (?) specifically for that mode.

Coolidge: Are you done upgrading this thing yet? :lmao:

Negative Ghost rider, on deck is a new stand, drop coolant, VFD,...perhaps CNC.

 

[tmarks11]

my most favorite, they have the radius/diameter button.

I don't care if the DRO has that button... so long it is in diameter mode!

 

[coolidge]

I also upgraded the G4003G chip disposal transport this past week. :whistle:

 

[darkzero]

I will also get the higher resolution glass scale for X (?) specifically for that mode.

Yup, I also have the 1µm (.0001" res) for the X axis. For the Z axis & on my mill, I'm perfectly fine with the 5µm (.0002" res) scales. Although I can live without the 1µm scale & not like I try to hold that level of tolerance, I like it a lot especially when in diametral mode.

I too like the machine specific buttons, although mine will likely stay in Continental/diameter mode most of the time.

I don't care if the DRO has that button... so long it is in diameter mode!

I do, I actually use the rad/dia button quite often. Most universal/mill DROs don't have the rad/dia button, just the lathe specific DROs. The preference can be set in the settings though & most people just set it for dia mode. The ES-12 on my mill does have the rad/dia button but the button is not useful on a mill.

I use the dia mode differently than most. When I'm turning down a dia, I skim the OD/ID, then I take a measurement of the OD/ID & input that value into the DRO. Then I turn to the dia I need rather than how you would do it conventionally as if using dials.

I switch to rad mode whenever I need to keep track of DOC. I use this mode for threading, grooving, & chamfering. Comes in very handy when I'm making multiples of the same part.

Although it's not a big deal I also choose the DRO that I did cause it bothers me having the Z axis labeled Y. My lathe DRO also has the tool offset function on a separate readout without having to enter a menu to get to it. That's what the 2 digit readout below is. I still need to set up more of my tools but it's a feature that is also quite handy. Since I had the choice of choosing lathe specific, might as well.

 

[tmarks11]

Although it's not a big deal I also choose the DRO that I did cause it bothers me having the Z axis labeled Y.

++++1.

I am going to have to take a look at the model you bought.

 

[wrmiller]

++++1.

I am going to have to take a look at the model you bought.

The DroPros 2L is also marked X and Z, in case you're interested.

 

[eaw99517]

Coolidge I've basically got the same set up as you do, but with a Fuerda 8" 6 jaw. I ran into some issues with parting steel rods, especially mild steel on my 4003G. A lot of chatter and the tool tended to dig in and snap the blade. Tried different RPM's, parting blades and holders without much success. I decided to try a slightly wider Cobalt HSS parting tool. Bad choice. Instead of snapping the blade, it broke my compound. I did some research and it seems that it is not recommended to part mild steel with some lathes. I replaced my compound assy. with one from a Clausing 5900 series 12 X 36 lathe. It's a little more beefy and has more material around the dove tails but is slightly wider, which is no problem. It reduced the chatter somewhat but I still use extreme caution when parting steel. Aluminum is no problem.

On another note, I use a 16 X 120 Axelson lathe at work and it is a beast! It weighs in the neighborhood of around 6,500 lbs. I can part any material with any width blade and it doesn't even whimper. Smooth as glass. Based on this I suspect that under certain conditions, you need to use caution when parting with the 4003G. If you look through TUBLCAIN's video's on YouTube, he mentions that if he has to cut a mild steel rod on his 12 X 36 Atlas or Clausing lathe, he uses a hacksaw LOL! He doesn't even attempt to part it off.

I've also done one additional modification and replaced my single phase motor with a 2HP 3-Phase unit with a VFD. Significant improvement in the surface finish of the material. I used to get kind of a barber pole pattern sometimes. Couldn't feel it, but it was clearly visible. Again, tried different feeds and speeds. All it did was change the pitch of the pattern. Replaced the motor and added the VFD, now no more pattern and surface finish is excellent. I don't know if there was a problem with my original motor, but I'm happy with what I've got now.

 

[coolidge]

EAW that's great info and confirms what my brother was telling me, its just the nature of mild steel so I'm going to stop trying to fix a problem that can't be fixed. Dang you broke your compound duly noted.

 

[tmarks11]

I have not had any problems parting steel on my lathe. On paper, my G0709 sounds bigger than the G4003G, but they are the same dimensions where it counts (same bed width, similar cross slide/compound).

my advise is to ditch the HSS parting blade. It is too flexible, and can cause problems even on relatively enormous machines. Get a good indexible carbide parting blade. I prefer the kind that has a clamp with a locking screw (I have seen too many pictures of damaged parting tool holders that use a slide in insert).

this is what I use:
http://www.iscar.com/eCatalog/Family.aspx?fnum=557&mapp=TG&app=51&GFSTYP=M

The advantage of this tool is it is much more rigid, and the cutting tip is wider than the rest of the blade, so the workpiece won't grab it.

Use a small triangle to make sure the blade is exactly perpendicular to the workpiece, and feed by hand. Disadvantage is it is limited to 1.4" diameter.

If you have to use HSS, than drip some tapping oil into the cut periodically to keep the worpiece from grabbing the blade. You could also grind some positive rack into the top of the blade.

I couldn't imagine giving-up on the ability to part on a lathe... It is such a fundamental part of any job.