G3102 G3103 Powerfeed

Just spoke with Grizzly trying to get a manual for the T23893. Was informed that it is being discontinued and to use the H8371. That one has a manual but it is also twice the price. ($456 vs. $245)

Right now i figure Grizzly and all the other Chinese knock-offs are using the same motors with similar design. Most are for the Bridgeport and the main difference is the torque.

Anyways. More info.

I look forward to what more you can add Dman and i will get measurements of my unit tomorrow.

Matthew
 
That's not good but not necessarily bad. It will require a little more work but it can be done so don't get discouraged as I'm sure you can do it . Have you tried the 6x26 group to see how they have modified theirs and get some ideas. Look in the photo section/ files.
This is the one I put on my g0730. Enco Model 404-3045 $299.95 -20% +free shipping = 239.96
 
Tom.

I am a member of 6x26 and have searched there. Not alot or at least nothing that pointed me to enough info to know what i am getting into. I do not mind the work. I went a long way to adapt a QCGB to my logan lathe so bring it on. (but i still like to know where i am heading) My beggest fear in this one is having to remove the lead screw and turn it down. Really would rather not do that.

Anyways....
 
I think that Maybe what you will have to do..... Most of the Powerfeeds i have seen are for a 5/8" shaft. looks like yours is larger.

so you would have to turn it down then .... cut a slot for the key. Not sure what is entailed to pull that out but it would save yah some money. Or spend the $$$ on the one from grizzly that is supossed to fit.

I don't think there is any reason to pull it apart any further...... That brass gear... where it buts to the dial.. i cut around 3/4" off ... it was longer than my older one..

i just wacked it off in the band saw then faced it in the lathe. I also had to bore it out around .008 cause it wouldn't slide over my shaft. Either way...

20151119_180737_zps6c5j93rs.jpg

20151119_180809_zpsomgwcyrw.jpg

20151119_180942_zpssnxw2q1g.jpg
 
I am probably wrong.....

but the pics don't show it well enough.... Is that a sleeve on your shaft or is it solid??? I'm sure you have thought of this. but JIC
 
Thanks for the clear pictures, Dman.

Looks like with my G0678 it shouldn't be too hard to add a power feed. Seems like they made it easier on the newer models.

mill_8.jpg

It's difficult to see in the picture, but there are two holes that mount the sleeve which should also work to mount the power feed.

Using tomh's Enco link, I can get a power feed even cheaper than Grizzly with the current 25%+free shipping deal although I'll probably just wait awhile anyway.
 
Thanks Dman. It sure looks like what i have is different. Will take a look tonight and report tomorrow. I really would like to believe there is a sleeve on there.....

Your last picture shows some sort of aluminum colored piece in direct contact with your shaft. Is that part of the power feed? The 5/8" piece that has to fit over the shaft or something else?

I am guessing it would be the groove looking area on the picture posted by DoogieB

I think the following is correct. Please confirm.
- The Power Feed needle bearing just sits on the shaft and would free spin if no other parts were installed.
- The Power Feed motor torque roll is countered by the screws into the stage.
- The brass gear is what drives the lead screw via a separate key in the shaft than the handles key.
- The brass gear has a thread and nut that is just to keep the dial in place to be able to re-set the dial if you needed to zero it out.
- The handle mounts to the original end of the shaft on its original key. The power feed does not change any of that relationship.

If i got that right then how does the brass hear get its axial load to stay engaged to the power feed? The handle?

Also if i have that right the shaft needs to be long enough to accommodate all of this stuff meaning that i need to know the stack length just to know if i could even turn down the shaft.

BTW. I stuck a larger picture of my unit is post #6 above.

Matthew
 
ok so mine is the same as Doogie .... (it got to me and i just had to go look LOL couldn't remember).


Now i used a combination of parts that was existing (remember i had one it just broke) and what came with the kit.

I remember trying to use everything new... but i think the spacer over the inside of the shaft (race that needle bearings roll on) i ended up using the original. it just made it best for shimming.

so as you can see from these pics the shaft is larger at the needle bearing a race / sleave is slide over that section and thats what the needle bearings ride on.

as you can see i elongated the holes cause the bolt pattern was off like a half hole.....


Maybe you don't have to turn down your shaft???? maybe just bore out the brass gear and broach a key slot?...

thats if you shaft is around that .789 or so????



20151119_210522_zpsdv8rjblo.jpg


20151119_210754_zpsejihu32f.jpg

20151119_210718_zpsoaylrmbj.jpg


20151119_210640_zpstanq0xgk.jpg


20151119_210654_zpso3fax9wy.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top