- Joined
- Mar 31, 2015
- Messages
- 318
I had a stuck chuck and tried all of the brute force methods. This method worked well for me.
See post #19.
See post #19.
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G0752 Chuck stuck good and hard!
- Thread starter Perplexed
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2013
- Messages
- 984
Make an expanding plug for the back of the spindle so you can positively anchor it!
+1 on making something to really grab the chuck!
Once you have both of the above, make sure your back stop is solid, and whack your chuck tool. It might work...
Then stick some dry ice in the spindle hole; use rags to locate it. Alternatively, regular ice could work, but it will drool ;-)
Nuke the outside of the threaded area of the chuck, ideally while rolling back and forth; make a heat shield to control heat/paint damage. A torch is really the right tool. You are NOT shooting for glowing!!! Just well above boiling water.
Make sure your back stop is solid, and whack your chuck tool.
If it doesnt let go, apply penetrating oil and come back tomorrow.
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
+1 on making something to really grab the chuck!
Once you have both of the above, make sure your back stop is solid, and whack your chuck tool. It might work...
Then stick some dry ice in the spindle hole; use rags to locate it. Alternatively, regular ice could work, but it will drool ;-)
Nuke the outside of the threaded area of the chuck, ideally while rolling back and forth; make a heat shield to control heat/paint damage. A torch is really the right tool. You are NOT shooting for glowing!!! Just well above boiling water.
Make sure your back stop is solid, and whack your chuck tool.
If it doesnt let go, apply penetrating oil and come back tomorrow.
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Thanks for the advice, folks. I tried the “weight on a stick” method with a 3‘ breaker bar and approximately 50 lbs of weight, and I left it that way for about two weeks (had woodworking projects to keep me busy). No dice, the chuck didn’t move at all. I considered the method in Post #19 of that other thread, but the gearing on my lathe doesn’t allow for free-wheeling of the chuck. I can turn it by hand, but the gears impart a light braking action. The chuck can’t just spin so there’s not much inertia accumulating in between each of the jaws, if that makes sense. I wonder though if it’s possible to remove the one gear on the spindle inside the gearbox so the chuck can spin freely. I’ll have to look into that.
Much appreciated!
Much appreciated!
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2017
- Messages
- 2,138
'Way back in the dark ages when I was just starting with industrial electrical work, I ran a lot of rigid conduit. I mean a LOT, as I was one of the younger guys in the shop and could contort to fit the old(ca1896) mill building. Mostly 3/4 inch rigid which equates to 3/4 inch schedule 40 galvanized water pipe. I got so strong in my hands I could assemble a conduit run by hand that needed a pipe wrench to undo. That was a long time ago, but the memories are still there.
Which brings me to the problem at hand. There were instances of 3/4 rigid laid directly on a concrete floor where it could be run over by forklifts and the like. A trick I soon learned was to attempt to tighten the joint before loosening it.. Not much, just enough to get it to "creak" or squeel once. On old galvanized pipe, fasteners, most any super tight connection, it did help. Even the longest pipe wrenches would find things easier. It was an old school millwright that showed me the trick.
I don't say it will solve your problem, but it would be worth a shot. If it didn't work, you only wasted a couple of minutes.
.
Which brings me to the problem at hand. There were instances of 3/4 rigid laid directly on a concrete floor where it could be run over by forklifts and the like. A trick I soon learned was to attempt to tighten the joint before loosening it.. Not much, just enough to get it to "creak" or squeel once. On old galvanized pipe, fasteners, most any super tight connection, it did help. Even the longest pipe wrenches would find things easier. It was an old school millwright that showed me the trick.
I don't say it will solve your problem, but it would be worth a shot. If it didn't work, you only wasted a couple of minutes.
.
In addition to Bill's idea above....
You might consider using "Impact" vs "Constant" Torque. I learned early on, working for a shop that restored and maintained very expensive vintage cars, the fastest way to break wheel studs or other bolts was to apply more and greater constant torque.
Impact wrenches work on the principle of "Impulse", High Energy (the impact) for a short duration. That shock allows the wheel nut or bolt to turn while keeping the stud/bolt within it's elastic range. The pause in between impacts allows the stud or bolt to spring back from it's elastic limit before the next impact. This is what keeps impact wrenches from breaking things, when grabbing a breaker bar and or cheater bar and just applying more and greater constant force (torque) would.
If you can lock the spindle, you might want to try this method of placing bar perpendicular to the chuck and giving it a rap with a dead blow hammer. That's how I loosen the screw on chucks for my lathe.
You might consider using "Impact" vs "Constant" Torque. I learned early on, working for a shop that restored and maintained very expensive vintage cars, the fastest way to break wheel studs or other bolts was to apply more and greater constant torque.
Impact wrenches work on the principle of "Impulse", High Energy (the impact) for a short duration. That shock allows the wheel nut or bolt to turn while keeping the stud/bolt within it's elastic range. The pause in between impacts allows the stud or bolt to spring back from it's elastic limit before the next impact. This is what keeps impact wrenches from breaking things, when grabbing a breaker bar and or cheater bar and just applying more and greater constant force (torque) would.
If you can lock the spindle, you might want to try this method of placing bar perpendicular to the chuck and giving it a rap with a dead blow hammer. That's how I loosen the screw on chucks for my lathe.
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- Sep 1, 2018
- Messages
- 648
I’ve had good results putting hex stock in chuck and using impact wrench. Might take few bumps.
That's a good idea!
Yes, good idea - but I still need to immobilize the spindle first, as it doesn’t have a lock feature. So my research now is how to effect that immobilization; after that, loosening up the chuck should be a piece of cake. The block of HDPE in the gears does stop the spindle from turning, but there’s still a bit of play, and the block is prone to falling out with just a slight release of pressure. I’m looking for total and reliable lock
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2017
- Messages
- 311
I've never seen a chuck this tight before.
Silly as it might seem, have you considered the fact that it might have a lefthand spindle thread?
I know it would be a freak of nature to have one as the spindle would be exactly the same as the g0602 model, and i know mine is right hand thread.
I would resort to heat and some form of penetrene as the only way of getting it off, in conjunction with a loaded torque bar.
Silly as it might seem, have you considered the fact that it might have a lefthand spindle thread?
I know it would be a freak of nature to have one as the spindle would be exactly the same as the g0602 model, and i know mine is right hand thread.
I would resort to heat and some form of penetrene as the only way of getting it off, in conjunction with a loaded torque bar.
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