Filling holes in vise parts with epoxy

ARC-170

ARC-170

Jeff L.
H-M Lifetime Diamond Member
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Oct 17, 2018
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I have a Kurt vise that has a few divots in it from 40 or more years of use. I do not want to pay a welder to fill them since they are not structural, just cosmetic. I thought I would use JB Weld epoxy. Anyone see any issues with this? The color won't match exactly, but it will be close.

DSC00343.JPG
Three flaws are shown. The one on the left is on the jaw and I won't repair this one since it's going to undergo clamping forces. The middle one on the same piece will be repaired, as will the one on the right on the movable jaw. There is also a hole that is out of the frame on the right piece that I will fill.

BTW, vise jaws are $77 each and the movable jaw is $490. I've had cast iron welded and its about $40 per weld. Then I would have to grind down the welds with a surface grinder.
 
ARC-170 said:
I have a Kurt vise that has a few divots in it from 40 or more years of use. I do not want to pay a welder to fill them since they are not structural, just cosmetic. I thought I would use JB Weld epoxy. Anyone see any issues with this? The color won't match exactly, but it will be close.

View attachment 344529
Three flaws are shown. The one on the left is on the jaw and I won't repair this one since it's going to undergo clamping forces. The middle one on the same piece will be repaired, as will the one on the right on the movable jaw. There is also a hole that is out of the frame on the right piece that I will fill.

BTW, vise jaws are $77 each and the movable jaw is $490. I've had cast iron welded and its about $40 per weld. Then I would have to grind down the welds with a surface grinder.
Click to expand...
I think you should leave it jb weld will make it look bad and welding could cause distortion so leave it be and a machinist who has never scared a vise is a lair I would leave it be.
 
I have seen pictures of it done here somewhere.
I believe powdered metal was put into the epoxy during mixing and the colour match was really good.

I'll post back with a link if I find the thread.....

-brino
 
Let it be.

They are reminders to be careful.

If you must, and you have bench grinder then by it should be grinding dust that is whatever you have ground upon.

A magnet will pick up ferrous and washing with acetone before mixing onto epoxy.

Use good stuff, mix well with the grinding and apply.

On the mill table it is useful, not so much on a vice.

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If you have a sandblaster, mask around the areas where you want to put the JB Weld, and give them a light "tooth." This will help the JB adhere. I've made numerous assemblies with JB on sandblasted (VERY fine alumina grit, using a mini sandblaster) surfaces. It's almost good enough to be called a "poor man's weld job." And unlike welding, it works with dissimilar materials, such as aluminum to copper.
 
Go for it- JB weld to the rescue! Use some heat to cure it, it will be stronger. Put a light bulb nearby for 3-4 hours. About 120 degrees F
I've made numerous repairs with JB- it's handy stuff. You can also experiment with adding metal shavings for even more hardness
-Mark
 
I have a drill press that came out of a high school shop class. It features a smile of shame (actually more of a Glasgow smile) that I'd really rather have as a flat surface, so one of these days I'll fill it and mill it using J-B. I don't see anything wrong with it.
 
Use the original JB, not the quick set. Mike
 
I got a free Kurt with lots of drill marks everywhere. I JB Welded it and stoned it all flat, It seems to be fine, though all the divots were surrounded by real metal - no open corners or edges.


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