• This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn more.
  • PLEASE: Read the FORUM RULES BEFORE registering!

ER-40 D1-5 Mount

mksj

Active User
H-M Supporter-Premium
#2
There is no direct mount D1-5 ER-40 chuck that I am aware of. The easiest way is to get the flat back ER-40 and attach it with a back plate. You can also get less run out.
 

jaychris

Active User
H-M Supporter-Premium
#4
The Tormach appears to be a good candidate. Any other suggestions?
Did you ever find a solution? The ER40 chucks that I've found are all setup to mount to a D1-4. The ER40 chuck on my older D1-4 lathe might have been my favorite and most used chuck.
 

ddickey

H-M Supporter - Premium Content
H-M Supporter-Premium
#5
No. I botched two back plates. I bought the Tormach. It had a 1mm. register w/100mm. diameter which fits right over the holes for the camlocks. I did get it mounted but the TIR was unacceptable. It sits on my shelf. I did buy a MT3 ER40 collet that I use with a drawbar.
In the future I plan on buying one with a larger register. I looked at the ones that Arc Eurotrade sells but they have no idea what the accuracy might be.
 

jaychris

Active User
H-M Supporter-Premium
#6
Well, I'm planning to buy one of the thick South Bend backplates from Grizzly (to avoid hitting the camlocks) and see if I can't machine the register more easily. I can't find any other options, unfortunately.
 

ddickey

H-M Supporter - Premium Content
H-M Supporter-Premium
#7
I was thinking about trying my hand at making my own back plate. I still have the material but I don't think I could do it accurately enough.
I'll probably go with the grizzly option also.
 

mksj

Active User
H-M Supporter-Premium
#8
You can re-cut the register on the chuck, either hold the chuck in a 4J or clamp some 1" rod in the chuck and hold that with your 4J. This should center the chuck relative to the collet. Should not be any significant deflection if you are not taking deep cuts. I was also considering something similar and planned to use the extra thick SB back plate. I am considering cutting the register deeper on the ER chuck and making some form of set-tru adjustable tapping for 4 small Allen set screws. When cutting cast iron in this setting, I have found that very sharp CCGT or WNGT inserts cut very nicely, I have used these on several back plates.
 

jaychris

Active User
H-M Supporter-Premium
#9
You can re-cut the register on the chuck, either hold the chuck in a 4J or clamp some 1" rod in the chuck and hold that with your 4J. This should center the chuck relative to the collet. Should not be any significant deflection if you are not taking deep cuts. I was also considering something similar and planned to use the extra thick SB back plate. I am considering cutting the register deeper on the ER chuck and making some form of set-tru adjustable tapping for 4 small Allen set screws. When cutting cast iron in this setting, I have found that very sharp CCGT or WNGT inserts cut very nicely, I have used these on several back plates.
somehow I never considered re-cutting the register on the chuck over cutting a new register on a back plate. <face palm>
 

TakeDeadAim

H-M Supporter - Premium Content
H-M Supporter-Premium
#10
Making a back plate is not that hard. Rough the diameter on the lathe, go to the mill and put in the holes for the lock pins and screws. Mount the plate on the lathe. Make sure and mark the spindle and plate so you put it back on the same way. Now cut the OD of the plate and registration area. No way if it's cut in the lathe spindle it won't be concentric.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

ddickey

H-M Supporter - Premium Content
H-M Supporter-Premium
#11
The problematic area that I see would be after cutting the spindle bore and taper out, transferring the plate to the mill to drill and tap for the camlocks.
 

TakeDeadAim

H-M Supporter - Premium Content
H-M Supporter-Premium
#12
If you face the front of the plate parallel to the back you can put it front face down on the mill center up on the taper and drill and tap your holes for your pins and the retaining screws. Then mount it back on the lathe and finish the front. As long as you mount it the same way each time your ER chuck will run as concentric as it is made to its mounting counterbore


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

ddickey

H-M Supporter - Premium Content
H-M Supporter-Premium
#13
Finally mated the back plate I made to the ER40 Collet Chuck.
First thing I did was make the recess deeper on the ER chuck using the 4J. Originally I was going to use a precision bar held in an ER collet in the spindle and attach the collet chuck to that. Two problems with the idea was that I only have one collet per size and the collet that fits in the spindle needs a draw bar. Since my ground piece was to long so that wouldn't work. Looking back I could of just turned a piece of stock down. I don't think it needed to be a precision rod, as long as I turned it down I think that is what would matter. Anyway, didn't think of that at the time.
Now I faced the back plate with the correct register. The chuck fit on really nice and tight, had to tap it on with a dead blow.
At this point something went wrong I believe. I had to take the back plate off to drill and tap for the chuck, removing all the camlocks. I made a witness mark previous to this so the back plate went on the same way.
Got everything back together and run out was unacceptable .005" - .009" depending on how I mounted the back plate.
Took off the chuck and checked the face of the back plate, same thing.
I took a clean up cut across the back plate and also took some off the register diameter.
Mounted the chuck but had to tap out the run out. I got it down to ~ .0004". I'm satisfied with that. thumbnail_IMG_20170804_193747389_HDR.jpg thumbnail_IMG_20170806_243920818.jpg