electrical for the PM1236

[MikeWi]

For that matter, make sure you don't have any relays or contactors that use 120 already.

Thanks, I already have 110v outlets in the room, I just have to add the 220v.

Rehashing the plug topic... If you haven't already got one... Look at range plugs. They're quite often very cheap (volume sales!), and you can get a plug with a pigtail, and a socket in a combo pack for less than the cost of just an outlet sometimes. Other bonus is that the plugs usually got a 90* straight down cable to save space.

I've seen the very ones you're talking about, thanks!

 

[Dr.Fiero]

What I meant was make sure there's no 120V relays inside the control box for the machine.
Mine has a start/stop button setup that controls a set of contactors - and I'm pretty sure the solenoids are 120 powered (vs the 220 motor).

Of course, I have no idea what yours is. I'm just saying, for the sake of 1 more wire, it's easier to do it now than adjust it later.

 

[darkzero]

for the sake of 1 more wire, it's easier to do it now than adjust it later.

I agree. If I had to do it over again, I probably would have added the extra wire for my mill at least. But I'm maxed out in my power run (lathe, mill, & air compressor).

But for the PM1236, it doesn't require it. Work light & the coolant pump runs off the lathe. The worklight is 24V & I believe the pump is too but I forget on the pump, I don't use it.

 

[MikeWi]

I agree. If I had to do it over again, I probably would have added the extra wire for my mill at least. But I'm maxed out in my power run (lathe, mill, & air compressor).

But for the PM1236, it doesn't require it. Work light & the coolant pump runs off the lathe. The worklight is 24V & I believe the pump is too but I forget on the pump, I don't use it.

As long as there's a reason I don't have a problem running the 3 wire cable. I do intend to get the PM45 mill in a few months, so I'll go that way.