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Electric motor connection

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grsabourin

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#1
Hi,

I was needed to change the motor of my conventional lath. Original motor was a 220V, single phase 3/4 HP reversible. The new one is not really different. It is a 220V, single phase 1 HP reversible. The connection diagram is different for the new motor.

This the motor wiring diagram and my switch configuration. I would like to wire the switch to be able to reverse the motor.

Is someone may told me how to wire the switch and the motor

Thank you

 
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grsabourin

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#5
I take a closer look to JPigg55 proposition. One question is coming up. Is the color coding is standard between companies? The diagram seems really different as what is written on the sticker of my motor.
 

Linghunt

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#6
If was confusing to me at 1st, had not seen that type doc before.

Do you want a copy of the hand sketch of wiring as if you were using a 3PDT switch? I was thinking of a panel mounted switch initially. Like an Allen Bradley 800T series type. Lots of them on Ebay. You can add extra blocks for what you need.

Did you look up the Dayton switch?

http://pospert.org/dayton-gear-motor-wiring-diagram/
 

grsabourin

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#7
Are you saying that I do not have the right switch type for what I would like to do? I already have a drum switch that it was fitting with my old motor
 

Linghunt

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#8
I figured you would want it for reference. Note, I might have error in there, but think I got it.



I didn't know if you wanted different options. Use what you got on hand and save money.
 

grsabourin

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#9
Yes ideally I would like to reuse my current drum switch. Thank you for your drawing. I understand it. I just need to figure out how to do it with my drum switch
 

markba633csi

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#10
grsabourin: There are many variations regarding motor wire color codes. Can you provide the name of the manufacturer of your motor?
Do you want to connect it for 230v or 115v?
Mark S.
 

JPigg55

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#12
Sorry, it was late and I just sent a picture. No, colors are not standardized.
For 220v single phase hook-up, connect as follows:
Incoming lead L1 connect directly to the Blue wire (not on switch).
Connect the rest as listed:
White to 'A'
Red to 'B'
Incoming line 2 to 'C' (L2 to 'C')
Orange to 'D'
Black to 'E'
Yellow to 'F'

Wiring.jpg

If your motor doesn't rotate in the proper direction for your switch position, just swap the Red & Black leads (Black to 'B' and Red to 'E').
The White and Orange leads can be reversed as well if you like. It doesn't matter for these two.
 

grsabourin

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#13
I just try the solution of JPigg55. Immediately when connect the motor (with switch off). The motor make noise but never turn. Never try to play with the switch. Why you are connecting orange and white wires. They are not connected on my motor diagram
 

markba633csi

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#14
Orange and white are connected for the 230v case according to the diagram you posted above
 

JPigg55

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#15
I just try the solution of JPigg55. Immediately when connect the motor (with switch off). The motor make noise but never turn. Never try to play with the switch. Why you are connecting orange and white wires. They are not connected on my motor diagram
Sorry about that, sounds like it's trying to energize motor on the blue lead only.
Make sure the Brown lead is taped/capped not connected to anything.
I'm assuming your switch has an OFF position that no contacts are made up in this position.
I also assumed you posted the wiring diagram for the new motor and not the old one.
By the diagram you posted, White, Orange , and Red should be connected for CCW rotation with Yellow and Black connected to one of the incoming power leads.
The White, Orange, and Black should be connected for CW rotation with Yellow and Red connected to one of the incoming power leads.
If your switch and motor drawings are correct, this wiring scheme should work.
 

JPigg55

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#16
PS
With a 220v hook-up, there is no Common/Ground wire as in a 110v connection.
I'm somewhat surprised the motor diagram doesn't show any ground fault wire.
A picture of the actual motor terminals might help.
 

tq60

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#17
Careful...common is not same as ground.

Green safety ground often is not drawn on the wiring diagram or if it is in a corner someplace indicating a connection to ground.

The common or neutral is not needed for 240 vac applications and it does connect to ground at the main entrance panel

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk
 

JPigg55

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#18
Careful...common is not same as ground.

Green safety ground often is not drawn on the wiring diagram or if it is in a corner someplace indicating a connection to ground.

The common or neutral is not needed for 240 vac applications and it does connect to ground at the main entrance panel

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk
Good advice.
 

grsabourin

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#19
I confirm that nothing is connecting to the brown wire. Also the diagram above (initial message) is the wiring diagram of the new motor. I was asking the question about orange and white wires because on the diagram above it says insulate. I understand not connected. Am I right?
 

markba633csi

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#20
It means connected together and taped or otherwise insulated to prevent touching ground or other wires
Mark
ps can you post a picture of the drum switch you are using? We need to see what style it is and if it has a center off position
 

JPigg55

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#23
From the look in the picture, you have a 4-wire (White, Black, Red, and Green) cable. I can also see a White wire on the back side of the switch, but can't see what or how it's connected.
Is this 4 wire cable coming from your power source or is it one you used to connect from your switch to your motor ???
If used to connect switch to motor, will need to see how you connected wires to motor as well.It also looks like you have two unisulated wires connected to your switch. Unisulated wires are a bad idea as they can easily short out.
Just a guess, but it these wires look to be 12 or possibly even 10 gauge wires. While you can use them, 14 gauge would probably be a better option, if possible, as they will fit better inside the swith housing and be less likely to short out later on.
 

grsabourin

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#24
The picture is not very good to show other stuff then type of drum switch. The color coding of the wires is not good because I recycle the cable of the old motor. I will try to take better picture in the next days including also the connection box of the motor. I have contacted USMotor and they give me the wiring diagram of the motor. It may possibly add interesting information
 

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markba633csi

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#25
Those wires look like they could be pressing on the contacts when the cover is installed. I agree with Pigg they should be thinner gauge, 12 at the most.
I suspect you need to recheck your connections since Pigg's instructions are correct and should work. You have everything you need including the motor diagram
from your first post.
Mark S.
 

grsabourin

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#27
I have studied closely the diagram proposed by JPig55. This diagram is really good. thank you for that. I have changed all my wires for 14 gage wires and follow the diagram. I was still having similar issue with no off on the switch and motor with no power. I have tested again my switch and some contacts was surprising. I have found that the ground wire was touching one switch contact. I was the issue. I have removed this wrong contact and know all is good and work perfectly. Thank you all for all your help.
 

JPigg55

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#29
Glad it worked out for you.
I had similar issue when I had to replace the motor on my mill.
I had to direct connect one of the power lead wires around my switch as you did with yours.
Not an issue unless, like you had, a short develops to ground on another lead providing a path for current.
To prevent this I have a dedicated circuit breaker for my mill that I turn off when I'm not in my shop. That way there won't be a problem if a short develops when I'm not there.
I'd advise you do something similar. Best case would be a tripped breaker or fried motor. Worst case....a fire taking out your entire shop or worse.
 
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