Drywall Vs. Plywood For Shop Walls?

I did my other garage in 5/8" dry wall for fire safety and resale. You can always hang a piece (or pieces) of "task specific" size ply where you really feel that you need it.
 
Agree, 5/8 drywall on all ceilings and also on walls common to living space. 5/8" has 1 hour fire rating. You could use 1/2" on balance of garage. Then use plywood or waterproof fiber panel over the drywall. In my previous life, seen where this drywall has saved the house after shop or garage fire. Everyone says it will never happen to them, until it does.
 
MARVIN GARDENS said:
Hi.

I have another project in the planning stages and was hoping for some opinions from the members. My home shop consists of a little over have of a extra deep two car garage. The situation I've run into here in California's Central Valley is that it is either too cold or too hot to work in there except for the five or six seasonal days we get. It was 115 degrees in the garage today. There is no space on our lot to build another structure so the the garage is my only option.

I am planning on intstalling a insulated roll up door on the side of the garage which would lead to a coverd welding/gringing area. Our garage doors are nearly forty years old and I plan on replacing them with insulated models. The current drywall on the walls is coming down so insulation can be installed, There is do drywall on the ceiling rafters so the plan is to insulate and install insulation in the ceiling along with some canned lighting and some moveable, ceiling mounted surgical lights that I scrounged from a clinic that was being gutted. Eventually I would like to install a central air system in order to keep the inside temperature between 45 and 90 degrees. I have a roll-around swamp cooler but I don't like the effects of the moisture on my tooling plus I am very susceptible to sinus infections and end up with pounding headaches every time I use the cooler.

The electrical outlets will be run via conduit over the walls and ceiling as will the pipe for the compressed air. My question now is should I cover the walls with 5/8" drywall or just go ahead and cover the walls with plywood? The drywall would obviously be less expensive while the plywood would be less susceptible to damage and provide a better anchoring surface.

Any thoughts?

Regards.

Bob
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I have drywall on the ceilings and 1/2" OSB on the walls.Walls and ceiling are insulated.If you use OSB install with the smooth side facing you.OSB can be painted ,I left it natural.Painted the ceiling white.My electrical is Romex wire thru the studs.Air lines and drops are copper ( thick wall thickness,forgot the letter designation).Copper is surface mounted.I had 4 ceiling receptacles installed. The mill,bench, and two other drops are ceiling mounted with a twist lock on two of them.
If you want plywood for backing for cabinets,etc,you can install 4" wide strips and drywall between them.Faster and cheaper than drywall over plywood or OSB.Another way done in commercial settings is to drywall only,install kitchen metal for backing over the rock.I layout where the backing will go,cut kitchen metal to size and apply subfloor adhesive to the wall.Then the metal is applied and held in place with drywall nails or screws.Nails can be left in but screws are backed out the following day. Screw heads stick out to far .
 
My shop walls are metal and painted white. Great for cleaning and durability. I would do it again.
 
My guess is that plywood would not be code so don't give your insurance company an out by not following code if your house catches on fire. As my house was just built a couple years ago here's some more info. I needed a fire rated door between the house and garage. I could not install AC in the garage, or a external shop building for that matter, its against code. I'm guessing some energy wasting related regulation. The builder suggested adding a ductless heat pump after construction.

As my 3 car attached garage is fully insulated and sheet rocked with insulated garage doors, and is about 40% covered above by the 2nd floor of the house here's what I see temp wise. It stays warmer than the outside on cold days but I still have to run a couple of space heaters during the winter. It stays cooler on the inside on hot days until about 1pm then later in the day as its cooling down outside the garage actually retains the heat from mid day and its hotter out there than outside. I have to open up the garage doors to let the heat out.

So a full insulation job will likely improve your situation but its no miracle cure. I would go sheet rock then attach some peg board, plywood, hooks, etc. to hang stuff on top of the sheet rock. That's my 2 cents worth.
 
Is your garage attached to the house? Then I would lay plywood first then sheetrock over the ply. If the garage is separate, then you may get away with just plywood. Mark
 
Thanks so much for the responses. It certainly has given me much to think about. I honestly had not considered the fire aspect of plywood. I was told that it was not code in my area to duct the existing house a/c into the garage but a separate unit was ok. That information did not however come from a a/c contractor. I have read about the ductless systems and will also look into that. I am not expecting a cozy 72 degrees in the summer but as I age, temps above 100 degrees in the garage are just too uncomfortable to stay in there and work.

Much to think about. Again, all the comments are sincerely appreciated. If anyone has any more thoughts, please jump in.

Regards.

Bob
 
I agree with Franco on the paint scheme but I did paint my shop interior white and love the reflectance it gives. There are so many things in the room and stuff on the walls that the light is broken up and has not been a problem. I used 400w HID fixtures and have wonderful light. Now back to your question. My shop is a Butler metal building and I used metal studs to support 5/8" drywall painted with semi gloss white enamel. The wall only go 8' up towards the 14' ceiling. Then over the upper 4'of the wall I placed 1x2" strips screwed to the studs then attached 1/4" tempered Masonite pegboard that I had given two coats of verithane. Having all walls with pegboard I am rarely at a loss for a place to hang something. Go with the 1/4" pegs as the 1/8" are really wimpy. Sears was having a sale on tool cabinets so I bought some with combo drawer/shelf units. Spaced them out to make knee spaces and covered with 1 1/8" flooring material. Then to top it all off some 10ga steel was formed by a local shop that made the face, top and 6" back splash. I can stack or beat on most anything at will! Love my shop. I would send pictures but you can barely see the counters for the junk! My shop has no windows. As my uncle said "If people can see in. Your belongings will get out!" Pretty wise man.

Now get back to making SWARF!!!
 
In Santa Cruz county, Ca insulation is not allowed in garage walls and ceilings. Because a garage is not a living space. It must be in a space that abuts a living space though. That area requires 5/8 drywall. 5/8 drywall is a lot better insulator than 1/2 plus the better fire rating.
 
MARVIN GARDENS said:
Thanks so much for the responses. It certainly has given me much to think about. I honestly had not considered the fire aspect of plywood. I was told that it was not code in my area to duct the existing house a/c into the garage but a separate unit was ok. That information did not however come from a a/c contractor. I have read about the ductless systems and will also look into that. I am not expecting a cozy 72 degrees in the summer but as I age, temps above 100 degrees in the garage are just too uncomfortable to stay in there and work.

Much to think about. Again, all the comments are sincerely appreciated. If anyone has any more thoughts, please jump in.

Regards.

Bob
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As a HVAC contractor, I can attest to the fact that placing a HVAC register from the home into the garage is dangerous and very much a code violation and your insurance may give you a few words about it should anything go wrong.

Beyond that, I see no problems laying ply on the walls then using drywall on top of that- if codes allow.

Depending on what appearance you want, thick hardy (sp?) board is a good choice for fire protection.
 
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