Drill press chip vacuum

BWSmith

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Been working on a bunch of trad bows lately which sees me at a DP(drill press) making tooling and drilling. And we a have some nice ones. This is a late 40's power downfeed W/T 1200. Love this old press. The Heinrich quick vise was a freeby.... anyway that's not the point.

The point of the thread is this std 2 1/2" shop vac,hose holder. This holder is kinda like,magic. The pics should show it's main features but I'll try to explain just in case.

The hose clamp itself is an unmodified 2 1/2" old fashioned muffler clamp. The inner part of this clamp fits the ribs on the hose perfectly! So well that the nuts on the U bolt really aren't tightened. You set them so that,with a tug.... you can pull/push the hose letting it sorta "click" into position.

Next,uber convenience is yup,that cam locking part is off a kids bicycle seat post. Stupid easy to unlock,which opens the sleeve around column, and now the whole affair moves,up...down,and around.

Because there's only one side of the U bolt holding.... it's easy to set that axis,or angle.

Basic shop vac floor sweeper with round notch to clear tooling.

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Thought someone might need a quick project for their DP. I don't use it every time,but if there's more than onsey/twosey it gets used. Good luck with your project.
 
Nice.

My experience has been that production shops (or at least shops involved with repetitive and recurring tasks) often spawn the most innovative and effective accessories. They’re often deadly simple, can be a bit rough, but it only takes a second of looking at a picture to realize how effective they would be. Months of professional designing could never come up with a comparable product! I have the most simple and dirt-cheapest deflector on a belt sander that has been there for years and every time I think it’s time to improve on it I back down, knowing full well that any “improvement” would kill it outright. I suspect your collection hood is the same, and I bet it works as effectively as I imagine. :encourage:

-frank
 
I‘m impressed when anybody makes anything viable in regards to vac’s and their proprietary hose sizes! I can never buy what I need for some specific application. They force me to bodge stuff every time. In a thread here on HM somebody posted this special clamp that I don’t remember what it was called now :( But it kinda worked, but the router bit/die grinder combo I was using was still throwing wood chips depending on which direction I was cutting in until I got a dawning. I made this PVC mod and finally got the mess down to almost nothing. The vac hose hooks into the PVC elbow
 

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C-Bag,this may not be the "final word" on DC connection engineering but,it's DANG close,haha.

Think,2 pieces the same size,or there's an issue doing a "slip fit", OR.... you're looking for super clean/smooth internals trying to max out airflow keeping velocity up.

First piece gets rolled so that you have to compress it to get it inside.... it'll spring out. That's the inner sleeve. The outer is the same concept,on reverse. You make it so that there's clearance between the flanges. Tightening the screws/bolts really locks things together. I use this on almost every connection.

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I‘m impressed when anybody makes anything viable in regards to vac’s and their proprietary hose sizes! I can never buy what I need for some specific application. They force me to bodge stuff every time. In a thread here on HM somebody posted this special clamp that I don’t remember what it was called now :( But it kinda worked, but the router bit/die grinder combo I was using was still throwing wood chips depending on which direction I was cutting in until I got a dawning. I made this PVC mod and finally got the mess down to almost nothing. The vac hose hooks into the PVC elbow
 
A slight variant on the inner sleeve;

Takes some patience but,you can actually cut the inner sleeve to the exact diameter. The "trick" is to cut it ever so slightly,"long". Meaning,you make it a overlapping coil first. Then install,with a hooked scribe,mark where the lap is. Now,instead of cutting the "mark".... add @1/8" +- .

It'll take some pressure on the inside,along with holding your tongue just right(kinda like mounting a tire) you can get this inner sleeve to,POP into place. Still utilizes the outer,band sleeve. Hope that made sense.
 
A slight variant on the inner sleeve;

Takes some patience but,you can actually cut the inner sleeve to the exact diameter. The "trick" is to cut it ever so slightly,"long". Meaning,you make it a overlapping coil first. Then install,with a hooked scribe,mark where the lap is. Now,instead of cutting the "mark".... add @1/8" +- .

It'll take some pressure on the inside,along with holding your tongue just right(kinda like mounting a tire) you can get this inner sleeve to,POP into place. Still utilizes the outer,band sleeve. Hope that made sense.
Makes total sense. I’ve yet to start in using the roll former on my 3n1 and I only remember once using a roll long ago.

That’s a pretty small roll for your typical pexto isn’t it?

I have this tendency from long years of working in places that was not even as equipped as my silly little shop. So its just habit of doing workarounds and I forget I have a way of fabbing a better solution. Yours is the better solution. I will be finding out whether the roll on the 3n1 functional or not and hopefully be able to use it to move on to better solutions.
 
In other words,

very cool... this machine makes me very impressed with its structure as well as its use.

Thanks to Google Translate.
 
Haddy. Hah y'awl doin?

Roughly translated, "Gee, we sure are glad you decided to join H-M. Welcome."
 
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