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Drill Dr
- Thread starter mirage100
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2014
- Messages
- 3,185
I'm not aware of any forum, but there is a FAQ section on the Drill Doctor website:
One of the questions answered there is about negative relief on the drill.
Here's a link to a tutorial that might help:
bestdrillbit.com
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www.drilldoctor.com
One of the questions answered there is about negative relief on the drill.
Here's a link to a tutorial that might help:
Drill Bit Sharpening Reference
Dull bits won't cut clean, overheating can cause fractures and material breakage. You can sharpen ones by hand, and our article will help you to make it right.
bestdrillbit.com
Last edited:
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2018
- Messages
- 6,602
Drill Dr. really only has two user inputs: Clocking and protrusion. They are quick, easy, and effective little grinders. I'd consider taking another a dive through the manual.
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2011
- Messages
- 246
Thanks I have. I might have been tightening the chuck to much. I might have not been turning the drill bit enough times. I think the stone is wore out. Got some on order. We will see. Thanks for all the info and help.
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2018
- Messages
- 6,602
If the stone has a groove worn in it, that could definitely do it. In terms of simplicity and convenience, the Drill Dr. has it. I hope you get it working, sharp bits are nice!
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2013
- Messages
- 3,212
I have a 750 drill doctor I bought a few years ago and I have used it but not a lot. One thing I kind of questioned right off the bat was that grind seems pretty rough to me. I know they provide two different grades of wheel and the manual says that this model does not ship with the coarse one but it still seems like it should be smoother. Maybe I’m being too fussy?
Here’s a photo of a 17/64 bit that has been resharpened. Does that look about right to you, Pontiac?
-frank
Here’s a photo of a 17/64 bit that has been resharpened. Does that look about right to you, Pontiac?
-frank
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2018
- Messages
- 6,602
Nope, Frank, it sure doesn't! It looks like the "dressing" on the wheel is bad or the wheel is not secured to the spindle. I've heard from a few folks who have the DD 750 that have said they are crap, and I'm always taken aback by that, because by DD has been such a little champ for over 25 years. I think my model predates model numbers. It looks like a 750 or 500, but has no model number.
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2014
- Messages
- 3,185
That does look a bit rough. Drill Doctor says all machines come standard with the fine wheel (180 grit).. However when used on larger drills or badly damaged drills it will wear quickly. They recommend the coarse wheel (100 grit) for anything over 1/2" or damaged drills. The wheel in my 750 is going on 20 years old, has sharpened well in excess of 1,000 drills, split hundreds of points and still leaves a far smoother finish. I think it's time for a new wheel in your machine. They're about $20.00 each from Drill Doctor.
As for the model number mine has a decal with the model number on the black plastic wheel cover. If I recall correctly the 500 model has a clear cover over the wheel and no decal. Looking at the manual the only noticeable difference between the two is that the 500 only comes with a single chuck for 1/8" to 1/2" drills. The 750 has a second chuck for 1/2" to 3/4" drills. They both use the same wheel, chucks, alignment tube, and sharpening tube.
As for the model number mine has a decal with the model number on the black plastic wheel cover. If I recall correctly the 500 model has a clear cover over the wheel and no decal. Looking at the manual the only noticeable difference between the two is that the 500 only comes with a single chuck for 1/8" to 1/2" drills. The 750 has a second chuck for 1/2" to 3/4" drills. They both use the same wheel, chucks, alignment tube, and sharpening tube.
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- Joined
- May 27, 2016
- Messages
- 3,480
I just knew @pontiac428 was going to say what he did.
There are various styles of sharpening drills, and drill jig aid sharpening machines that require any sort of rotation movement with tilt use the smooth face style (conical sharpening). There is also the "two-facet" style where each flute gets a straight flat cutting edge, and then a separate facet further back, to cut back the rest of the drill bit at an angle, so that that part does not rub over the steel the front edge just cut.
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The face should be smooth, with no bumps. There needs to be the little straight bit that goes across the point, between the cutting edges. The angle is supposed to be 59°, but can be 60° at a pinch. Stick a couple of hex nuts together with superglue if you need a quick 'n dirty gauge.
I have been sharpening these drill bits by hand, in a hurry, not very carefully, on a grinder with some sideways wheel vibration, and "could do better". I start at the cutting edge, and then do a "sweep", partly rotating, and partly dropping the end of the drill to "back off" the face behind the edge, a' la "conical", though it is not really a true cone.
Once I start, I complete the "sweep" in one move. Any hesitation leaves an extra flat facet. Of the two bits in the picture, the one to the right is done rather better. The left one has a not-so-good "curved" cutting edge. Both drills have been taking abusively harsh drilling into RSJ girders, and some electrical tray through a whole afternoon. Both are still cutting just fine, even though the sharpening is so casual and non-standard.
I am impressed with the other ways it is done in the links, and I am going to try these.
--> How to Hand Sharpen a Twist Drill
--> How to Sharpen a Drill Bit Quickly and Easily
--> Using Drill Doctor To Sharpen A Drill Bit
I get it that you want to use Drill Dr, but if you go there --> sharpen drill, you will find so many tricks and jigs, and little guides that you can make up from plywood, etc. that unless you are totally wedded to the Drill Dr. with the scored grind wheel, you might want to give some of these a try.
I would not argue with a trusty little tool that has given great results over 25 years for @pontiac428 .
Then again, how old is your DDr? I have a beat up old WorkMate that is at least 20 years old, and despite it needs a bit of de-rust and some refurb paint job, it is quality way better than the new bits of pressed tin can that pass for "WorkMate" in the DIY store.
There are various styles of sharpening drills, and drill jig aid sharpening machines that require any sort of rotation movement with tilt use the smooth face style (conical sharpening). There is also the "two-facet" style where each flute gets a straight flat cutting edge, and then a separate facet further back, to cut back the rest of the drill bit at an angle, so that that part does not rub over the steel the front edge just cut.
,
The face should be smooth, with no bumps. There needs to be the little straight bit that goes across the point, between the cutting edges. The angle is supposed to be 59°, but can be 60° at a pinch. Stick a couple of hex nuts together with superglue if you need a quick 'n dirty gauge.
I have been sharpening these drill bits by hand, in a hurry, not very carefully, on a grinder with some sideways wheel vibration, and "could do better". I start at the cutting edge, and then do a "sweep", partly rotating, and partly dropping the end of the drill to "back off" the face behind the edge, a' la "conical", though it is not really a true cone.
Once I start, I complete the "sweep" in one move. Any hesitation leaves an extra flat facet. Of the two bits in the picture, the one to the right is done rather better. The left one has a not-so-good "curved" cutting edge. Both drills have been taking abusively harsh drilling into RSJ girders, and some electrical tray through a whole afternoon. Both are still cutting just fine, even though the sharpening is so casual and non-standard.
I am impressed with the other ways it is done in the links, and I am going to try these.
--> How to Hand Sharpen a Twist Drill
--> How to Sharpen a Drill Bit Quickly and Easily
--> Using Drill Doctor To Sharpen A Drill Bit
I get it that you want to use Drill Dr, but if you go there --> sharpen drill, you will find so many tricks and jigs, and little guides that you can make up from plywood, etc. that unless you are totally wedded to the Drill Dr. with the scored grind wheel, you might want to give some of these a try.
I would not argue with a trusty little tool that has given great results over 25 years for @pontiac428 .
Then again, how old is your DDr? I have a beat up old WorkMate that is at least 20 years old, and despite it needs a bit of de-rust and some refurb paint job, it is quality way better than the new bits of pressed tin can that pass for "WorkMate" in the DIY store.
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2013
- Messages
- 3,212
Um, yeah, I have done the hand sharpening thing too but I’m not real thrilled with it. I do all my other tool bit sharpening easily enough off hand, but drill bits not. My Drill Dr 750x was purchased new from a local tool supplier in town, and I’ve used it a grand total of about four times. If anything, I was hoping the wheel would wear in a bit and the roughness would go away, but that seems unlikely.
I may spring for new wheel, there’s a chance I guess the machine shipped with the wrong wheel from the get go. Quite truthfully I don’t use it that much anyway, all of my drill bits are under 5/8” and not terribly expensive even for good ones. Thanks for the replies, guys
-frank
I may spring for new wheel, there’s a chance I guess the machine shipped with the wrong wheel from the get go. Quite truthfully I don’t use it that much anyway, all of my drill bits are under 5/8” and not terribly expensive even for good ones. Thanks for the replies, guys
-frank