Dpdt switch to reverse old Craftsman motor?

Something to throw in here- I see the wiring is covered, but I have an observation. Having "converted" a couple of drill presses to utilize a reversible, but not "instant reversing" motor-

Don't rule out the much simpler two switch options. Leave the main power switch as it is, and set up a second to swap the start wires. You'll still be waiting on the motor to stop after you've flipped four switches. Two switches (in this use case) is not so much of an imposition as you would think it is. It also serves as a "reminder" in the first few (days? months? years?) that you've modified it, whereas a single switch solution is very likely to get flipped too quickly. Not that it'll hurt the motor, it won't, but it's frustrating until you've trained your muscle memory.

Having an "OFF" position in both switches is a good thing. It lets you "double safe" the machine very easily, short of actually unplugging it, if that sort of thing is entertaining to you. (Unplugging is NEVER a bad option...) Not so much for changing a drill bit, but maybe belt services, lubrication, adjustments, and such where you're simultaneously not paying attention to the routine operation, AND doing things where you really might actually "bump" into a switch...

Again, just observations and food for thought from having done it. I like two switches, but there's a lot of ways to skin this cat. That's my experience.
 
Once you get familiar with the physical switch and ID the terminals it's a piece of cake, really
It just looks tricky at first, on paper
 
The original plastic switches on my lathe fell apart after about nine years, so I rewired the machine and replace the switches with two toggles and a momentry on switch. Left side toggle is the on/off switch, right side toggle is a reversing switch, and the middle switch is a momentry on inching switch I use for threading.
Our electrical system is 240v, but I'd imagine yours is basically the same except for voltage.
 

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You must have a DC motor on your machine
 
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Just to update for anyone who may search something similar in the future… I did get it done using a 3pdt 3 position switch. on/off/on

It’s kind of a mess but it works. I didn’t realize I’d need so many dang conductors. Just the normal 3 in but 6 back out to the motor. I’m posting a picture of the switch and how I wired it for future reference for anyone else who has this motor (probably works for other idk). If anyone sees anything I coulda done differently lmk, I’d love to clean up the mess inside and leaving the box. Thanks for the help! I’m sure I’ll be back for more as I add machines to my workspace.
 

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Looks fine, that's pretty much what you have to do
You could add a couple jumpers to the switch and have only 4 wires to the motor
but I don't know if it really matters- it's working now
Be thankful you don't have a Dayton motor o_O
 
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Looks fine, that's pretty much what you have to do
You could add a couple jumpers to the switch and have only 4 wires to the motor
but I don't know if it really matters- it's working now
Be thankful you don't have a Dayton motor o_O
Just for knowledge sake which terminals could I jumper? I’m not entirely sure I could physically add more jumpers to this particular switch. It’s clearly not meant for this application. Now that I sorta have it understood I might get something a bit better once I’ve determined how useful this is.
 
Like so: (center off switch) Note: The Hot line wire could be connected to any of the "star" points and it would work just the same.
This diagram is electrically the same as what you did, just fewer wires.
The studs are tied to the neighboring spade lugs behind the terminal board.

When you get into much higher frequencies than 60 Hz wire lengths and connection points are more critical.
There are some caveats about bundling digital wires with power wires concerning crosstalk but that's a separate topic.
3pdt120vm.jpeg
 
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