Dc Motor Vs Ac?

I'm not understanding why you have a 120 feed into the DC motor in the diagram?

Nor do I understand why the cb is in the return line instead of the "hot" line.

I have some knowledge of wiring, but not so much house services....I'm all aircraft and automotive wiring knowledge.

:)

Edit- oh wait. Black is the hot and white is the neutral in house wiring, isn't it? That would make more sense with the diagram...
 
great white said:
I'm not understanding why you have a 120 feed into the DC motor in the diagram?

Nor do I understand why the cb is in the return line instead of the "hot" line.

I have some knowledge of wiring, but not so much house services....I'm all aircraft and automotive wiring knowledge.

:)

Edit- oh wait. Black is the hot and white is the neutral in house wiring, isn't it? That would make more sense with the diagram...
Click to expand...
The AC is probably routed through a thermal overload in the motor.
 
use the drawing where it shows the mc 60 contol, the second one it makes more cents , and put the motor stop and start switch in the pot middle wire the (wiper) that way you don't have to change the pot setting you can start the speed setting where you set it from before
 
Kernbigo said:
use the drawing where it shows the mc 60 contol, the second one it makes more cents , and put the motor stop and start switch in the pot middle wire the (wiper) that way you don't have to change the pot setting you can start the speed setting where you set it from before
Click to expand...
No worries, I'm going to be using a cycletrol 150. Different beast than a treadmill controller.

:)
 
I'm going to chip in here in the AC/DC/variable speed discussion...

If you're running either at low speeds and heavy loads, add an external fan to cool the motor, at low RPM the motor's fan won't push much cooling air so it's easy to overheat the motor to the point where the insulation starts breaking down, result: loss of magic smoke, dead motor which shorts and blows the controller...

I worked at an importer of Chinese, DC-motor powered lathes and mills, the most common warranty claim was exactly that scenario - the Chinese don't bother putting thermal overload switches in their motors, they cost money... The importer would refuse warranty claims if he could get away with it, calling it "incorrect operation" although there were no warnings about it in the appalling "handbook".

The larger the fan the better, although even a PC cooling fan (5"?) is better than nothing - I have a Papst 10" equipment fan on my lathe's (dustbin sized) motor that cuts in below 30Hz on the VFD using one of its normally-closed relay outputs ("above supervisory frequency" is the menu choice). plus a 125 degreeC thermal switch in the VFD fwd/rev control circuit, no problems so far, even down to 5Hz, and the noise of the fan running reminds me to power everything off when I'm finished!

Dave H.
(the other one)
 
Kernbigo said:
I'am using a cycletrol 2000 now but the mc60 worked just as well
Click to expand...
Interesting.

I have second cycletrol 150.

I am back and forth on whether or not to use it on my small drill press when I install the treadmill motor in place of the single phase ac motor it currently has.

I was planning to use the treadmill controller due to its smaller size (better suited to my small bench top drill press).
 
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