Cut my first barrel tenon threads today.

TonyBen

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An old machinist friend of mine once said: "If you want to be a successful gun builder, don't turn down any work."

I've been working on expanding my customer base to those outside of the M14 and M1 Garand world and I've been working on other skills that appeal to the long range bolt crowd. One of those skills is being able to custom install a contoured barrel blank onto a bolt action rifle.

One of my customers has asked me to install two Proof Research barrels onto Remington CSR barrel extensions. He knows I've never done this before and is willing to wait while I train myself to do this kind of work.

Over the last year, I've bought all kinds of tooling, including carbide turning/facing tools and bits as well as carbide boring bars and inserts and external/internal carbide threading and grooving tools. I spent a lot of time getting my lathe in order a couple of weeks ago in preparation for this work. Here's the thread I posted on my results.
https://www.hobby-machinist.co...hews-pm1236t.110289/

At the end of the day, I was able to get my lathe aligned to within 0.0004" over the span of a 15 inch cut. So over the span of 15 inches, my lathe will cut a steel bar to within less than half a thousandth of taper. I got some advice from Frank at Bartlein barrels and he said my setup was more than adequate to do everything I can on that lathe.

He was gracious enough to send me some out of spec barrel blanks to practice barrel threading on. After three attempts to cut threads, I finally got it! My first attempt was foiled by a stupid mistake. Instead of cutting 16 TPI, I set to my lathe to cut 18 TPI. The threads were beautiful, but the wrong pitch! I practiced my second attempt on a cutoff M14 heavy barrel section and made a couple of goofs with my cross slide drifting off target and an error engaging the half-nut which bothched some of the threads. I was still able to produce a thread which allowed the extension to easily thread on, but the threads are way too small and there's a lot of slop.

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After making those goofs, I formulated a plan and cut off the section of the Bartlein barrel with the wrong thread pitch and started over. At 1 AM last night I had nearly got it. I still wasn't able to thread the barrel extension on because the threads weren't cut deep enough yet.

In this picture was a take-off CSR barrel, the Bartlein barrel that I was working on and the cutoff barrel section from the M14.
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I realigned the barrel into the lathe this afternoon and managed to pick up the threads with the thread cutting insert. I gauged the threads with a 3-wire thread gauge set and cut until they matched the thread diameter of the take-off barrel. I was now able to thread the insert on about a turn before it bound up, so I chased the threads a few times and was finally able to thread the extension on by hand all the way.

Here are the threads after the final cut and cleanup...
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Barrel extension fully screwed on hand tight...
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The bolt head had enough clearance to insert and rotate locked
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Training barrel and take-off barrel.
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Anyway, the next step will be muzzle threading to 5/8-24.

Thanks for looking!

Tony.
 
Good job! Excellent results for tries 1-3!

When you do the "real thing" I recommend leaving the barrel in the lathe until it's done. If you remove and replace the barrel you could easily double your runout, and it's nearly impossible to pick up a thread perfectly. (You probably know this.) Lastly, I'd try to reduce that thread relief.

GsT
 
Good job! Excellent results for tries 1-3!

When you do the "real thing" I recommend leaving the barrel in the lathe until it's done. If you remove and replace the barrel you could easily double your runout, and it's nearly impossible to pick up a thread perfectly. (You probably know this.) Lastly, I'd try to reduce that thread relief.

GsT
Thank you! And I agree. In the future, I don't plan on removing anything until it's all done.

As for the thread relief, I only did this on this test barrel to give me a little more room for error when disengaging the half-nut. I felt like I needed the room while my hands got used to running the levers. There was a time where I meant to disengage the half nut and ended up taking my hand off the lever and I grabbed the on/off lever instead! On the parkerized barrel nub, you can see on the left side where my thread cutter started cutting a taper onto the shoulder as the lathe slowed to a stop. I also learned to start way out from the thread start in case I mis-time the nut engagement. There were a few times where I engaged the nut just a tad too early and cut into some of the first threads, and some instances where I disengaged the nut just a tad too early, cutting into the last thread.

I was using a Kennametal Top-Notch thread tool with a KCU25 carbide thread cutter. I was cutting at around 200 RPM and using WD-40 to lube the cutter.

I originally set my lathe to use the compound at 29.5 degrees, but I couldn't access the cross-slide locking screw to lock down the cross slide. It was blocked by the DRO encoder read head. There's only a small window where I can access my lock screw and it was out of that window. As a result, my cross-slide handle drifted a few times, causing a messy cut since I had no way to lock it down.

On the final attempt, I locked the compound and just plunged straight in with the cross slide. This prevented anything from drifting. I need to rig up a cross-slide locking mechanism for the front end of the cross slide that isn't obstructed by DRO encoders.

I know it can be done either way, but until I rig up a locking setup, I'll have to use the straight plunge versus the 29.5 compound method.

I cleaned up the threads with a wire brush, some triangle Grobet needle files and scotch-brite.

Tony.
 
You should clean and tighten the cross slide gib if it's backing off that much. Back the locking screw out more than you think before adjusting it!

I made that mistake once. I could not get the CS properly adjusted, the lock wasn't retracted fully and point loading that one spot!
 
As a point of reference, sometimes my DRO would indicate that it drifted maybe 0.002" or 0.003" during the pass. I don't know how big of a difference that makes.

Tony.
 
There's nothing wrong with plunging into a thread as long as you can maintain a good finish. I was once instructed to do just that for the final pass or two (I no longer do it that way, but it certainly works if your setup is rigid enough). Try some good brown cutting oil, I think you'll see better results than with WD-40 (WD works great on aluminum though!).

GsT
 
You can add a cross slide lock to the other side, this is what I did on my current lathe and the previous 1340GT. It is vey simple but effective. I would try a cutting oil or similar when cutting threads in steel, some people use Anchor Lube, whatever you use make sure to clean it off any exposed metal surface otherwise it will stain the steel.

Also the old saying measure/check twice, cut once applies. Now that I am older it is probably thrice instead of twice.
 
I have a 1236T and only plunge cut when threading, I don’t even have the compound on the lathe unless I am cutting a taper. If the cross slide is moving on you, the gibs are likely too loose, or it could be the leadscrew nut does not have the correct preload and is allowing the cross slide to move. Another possibility is the screw holding the leadscrew nut to the cross slide may have come loose. The dial on my lathe was moving a bit when turning, but once I got the gibs set properly, the dial doesn’t move during the cut. It takes a bit of trial and error to find something tight enough to keep it from moving, but loose enough that you are not causing undo wear.

For cutting oil with threading on steel, I use the Oatley dark threading oil from Home Depot, I think it was in the plumbing section.
 
Try some good brown cutting oil, I think you'll see better results than with WD-40 (WD works great on aluminum though!).

GsT
Is this the same stuff as the Oatley's that was mentioned in the above post, or is it something else?

Also, I'm going to try inserting my thread holder upside down so I can thread from left to right with the lathe in reverse. What speed should I use with my carbide Top Notch insert?
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Is this the same stuff as the Oatley's that was mentioned in the above post, or is it something else?

Also, I'm going to try inserting my thread holder upside down so I can thread from left to right with the lathe in reverse. What speed should I use with my carbide Top Notch insert?
qaRP10gh.jpg


No need to be running at 200rpm unless the material requires it for finish/apperance.

A good cutting oil will help with surface finish, maybe even something sulpherated or a SS cutting oil.

Turning the tooling upside down will take the stress off of you, if your tooling can reach.

One thing I can’t stress enough is to be deliberate and methodical with threading. Lots of available handles and thoughts going through your head to screw up your work.

I still screw it up, but usually my stuff is a one off where worst thing is I need to start over.

These were fun. A punch holder and stripper for a machine long out of production.


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