[How do I?] Cut And Drill Spring Steel That Was Coiled

[Tonset]

Hello!

I'm working on a project with .500" wide by .042" thick spring steel that comes in a roll. I've been using a carbide 1/8" end mill to cut it off in 3" lengths in my mill then a carbide 1/8" drill/countersink to put a hole thru it. I'm trying to find a better faster way to make these consumable parts for my customized equipment. I use approximately 500 units per year so the millwork is getting tiresome.

For sale locally is a 4t OBI press. Looks like a hand smasher and face rearranger but was considering making it into a shear to cut the steel down. Also considering making a die and punch to make the hole as well.

I've tried bolt cutters but the steel work hardens halfway thru the cut. Anything non carbide just makes noise. Abrasive cut-off equipment over heated the steel. Any coolant applications noteworthy of trying? I currently run Bijur UB units on the lathe and h-mill so those are handy in the shop.

Another question is how do you remove the set from being coiled?

Thanks for helping out!

 

[JimDawson]

For sale locally is a 4t OBI press. Looks like a hand smasher and face rearranger but was considering making it into a shear to cut the steel down. Also considering making a die and punch to make the hole as well.

That is the correct tool for the job. Another possibility is a bench shear and punch.

You are correct, a punch press is probably one of the most dangerous tools out there, they are not at all forgiving. Two handed cycle trip and solid stops are the way to go. I have years of experience with punch presses, an have a great deal of respect for what they can do to body parts.

 

[joshua43214]

How about a turret punch press?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wiedemann-R...813001?hash=item2eea80eb49:g:jD8AAOSwZ1lWcZve
They are a lot smaller than a regular punch, but they are of more limited use.
Have you tried tin snips for cutting? They have bypass blades unlike bolt cutters and shouldn't work harden the material. They work great on the stuff that crates are strapped in, but that is probably a softer spring steel.
Either way, if it will punch it should shear.

 

[Wreck™Wreck]

A single punch press die would produce both features in a single stroke, at 10 strokes per minute for example, 500 parts would be produced in 50 minutes.
At a shop rate of $150.00 per hour, 3 hours set up, 10 hours of run time and a die cost of $1500.00.
5000 parts for $1.50 each. A 10 year supply.

If you can find a shop that will run only 5000 parts.
Edit
Forgot to mention that part of the set up is adjusting the straightener after the stock leaves the coil, for a competent shop that does much coiled stock this should take minutes.

Also a straightener is used on coiled stock, this is a series of adjustable offset rollers that bend the material with and opposite its set then adjusted until it emerges straight.

Like so
http://us.arku.com/typo3temp/pics/e359c69053.jpg

 

[JimDawson]

I know a shop that would do that. I do all of their tool & die work. Probably run that in one of the 60 ton presses at about 45 strokes/minute

Another question is how do you remove the set from being coiled?

I missed this question earlier, use a coil straightener. That is a set of 3 or more rollers that you run the material through and just kind of bend it the other way.

Like this,


A 3 roll slip roller might work also

 

[Wreck™Wreck]

I know a shop that would do that. I do all of their tool & die work. Probably run that in one of the 60 ton presses at about 45 strokes/minute

I was being conservative on the SPM,.
What would a straight cut with one 1/8" hole near one end punch die cost, for example:

 

[JimDawson]

I think you are pretty close on the die cost. $1200 to $1500. I see 6 progressions, lead in, punch, blank station, pilot, blank station, cutoff. About 8 hours of build time, plus heat treat, and another $400 or so in materials. 0.130 Dayton punch and die button, then the Dayton pilot and button, plus the D-2 for the shear, 4140 for the upper & lower die halves, some O-1 for the stripper plate and guides, and some shoulder screws and springs, and a used die set.

 

[kd4gij]

this should work.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hugold-12-h...500767?hash=item58ced9c6df:g:HwMAAOSwu4BV54Wk

 

[brino]

Hi Tonset,

Looks like you have a pile of great info above
All I can add is ....... Welcome to the site.

You can already see how helpful it is!
-brino

 

[Tonset]

Wow! What great information thank you. Thanks for the drawings too. I do have a bunch of irons in the fire at the moment so maybe I'll talk to a shop, however, I am already scheduled to look at the press so who knows what will happen. I like the ideas of the smaller units too, didn't know they existed. You folks aren't making it easy, kind of like picking out tile with my other half.

For music wire I've had luck pulling it thru some ss brake line with bends in them. The spring steel on the other hand has been more of a challenge. I made a fixture with a series of pegs that I pull it thru but it does not yield a real flat piece. My harbor freight slip roll shear combo got knocked over in the shop and have not attempted to fix it yet. Maybe I'll try a series of bearings instead of pegs and make the top ones adjustable.

Thanks for filling in the blanks!