Cornfuzed

mmcmdl

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What the heck ? The JD235 started up and ran GREAT ! I've had the pan on 4 times now but the linkage has me baffled . I know I didn't lose anything when dismantling this , and the diagram shows no parts . The reverse and forward pedals hook up to the hydro rear . Somehow they are connected for lifting / or opposite for the pedals . What am I missing here ? :mad: The diagram shows nothing . :burned up::cussing:The parts in question are 13 and 8 . I have everything shown but something has to keep tension on the reverse pedal linkage .

 
Part #1 (2 places) are “Spring locking Pins,” and the #8 and #13 shafts have what looks like cross holes near the end: what you need is a pair of torsional springs that slip over the shafts and hook over the levers. Unfortunately, I have no idea what the details are, but maybe this helps?
 
What the heck ? The JD235 started up and ran GREAT ! I've had the pan on 4 times now but the linkage has me baffled . I know I didn't lose anything when dismantling this , and the diagram shows no parts . The reverse and forward pedals hook up to the hydro rear . Somehow they are connected for lifting / or opposite for the pedals . What am I missing here ? :mad: The diagram shows nothing . :burned up::cussing:The parts in question are 13 and 8 . I have everything shown but something has to keep tension on the reverse pedal linkage .


If it's anything like most John deere rider's, it's cool how they made it so easy to remove the fender deck to access "everything". And at the same time, whiskey tango foxtrot? How can something so simple be such a pain in the (ear)... I can just imagine how much you want to go back in again.....

So you're saying that both pedals are functional, but have the opposite direction from what they're supposed to? Forward goes back and back goes forward?

It appears like a bog standard "two pedal" linkage. The reverse pedal serves only to push on the little bearingy roller thing on the drive pedal, and the drive pedal is the only one hooked to the "linkage". It looks like it's shaft (probablly) couldn't be upside down or the reverse pedal would just fall. So if the reverse pedal "works" to move the drive pedal, (even if the function is wrong), the reverse pedal shaft and drive pedal shaft would both have to be installed correctly, and there's only one hole for the transmission linkage to pin into. I think I'd rule out the pedal assembly for now. What else did you have apart back by the transmission. I can't see it at that site, this computer (Linux and Firefox and locked down and I'm not qualified for that (crap). I can open your link, but I can't navigate that site. But, it's a lawn tractor..... That main control rod, pedals to transmission, that and everything "behind it" that is where somethihg could "globallly affect both pedals . I don't see a damper with the pedals, so it's probably in the back? so there's at LEAST a lever back there at the transaxle, and some connection points for the damper. Possibly a bell crank? Did you have any of that "rear part" of the linkage apart when you were doing whatever you were doing? Bell cranks can often be put in the wrong orientation, and levers can get pinned on 180 degrees out of position, both of those options reverse the "direction" of a control rod easily and thereby "reverse" both of the pedals, even though only one pedal technically runs the transmission. I also don't see a returne to neutral mechanism amongst the pedals. If that's inside the transmission, then I doubt that's an issue, but if it's external, that's more pins and links to (possibly) be swapped or switched without having any leftover parts. Whatever it is though, I'm thinking it has to be at the transmission end.
 
I believe JD parts diagrams go in order. Can you look at the parts diagram before or after this one? Other than that, I believe the problems lie in the paint colors of the tractor....
Martin
 
I figured it out and took my first ride up the street today . Rides great . I'll look at the lower cowl tomorrow and figure out how to tie it all together . It's cracked but not to the point of getting a new one for $275 . The deck will only need minor rust removal and painting . I'll undercoat the bottom as always . $393 so far total . :encourage:
 
I figured it out and took my first ride up the street today . Rides great . I'll look at the lower cowl tomorrow and figure out how to tie it all together . It's cracked but not to the point of getting a new one for $275 . The deck will only need minor rust removal and painting . I'll undercoat the bottom as always . $393 so far total . :encourage:

Time to practice your fiberglass boat building skills? Or if plastic, get a hot-wire stitcher or hot air plastic stick welder?

Then again, clean up the back side, use Gorilla tape and call it done.
 
Time to practice your fiberglass boat building skills? Or if plastic, get a hot-wire stitcher or hot air plastic stick welder?

Then again, clean up the back side, use Gorilla tape and call it done.
Most likely I'll buy that hot wire tool Chazz and get it together . I just want it to look somewhat nice and not a taped up POS for selling out back . I'll alter some of the lower cowl and hinge it somehow other than the cheap original way that breaks the plastic . 91 degrees expected today . It'll be hot out on the driveway for sure , maybe I'll melt them together . :grin:
 
Most likely I'll buy that hot wire tool Chazz and get it together . I just want it to look somewhat nice and not a taped up POS for selling out back . I'll alter some of the lower cowl and hinge it somehow other than the cheap original way that breaks the plastic . 91 degrees expected today . It'll be hot out on the driveway for sure , maybe I'll melt them together . :grin:
You could rework the lower cowl the way I reworked my exercise bike so I don't have to take the pedal assembly off to access the guts:

Reassembled Bike.jpeg
 
Something like that would be great ! I removed the lock mechanisms on top as before to lift the lid easily . I have to study the bottom end and figure out a nice pivot point and go from there . This " new found " extra space in the garage might get filled up today with this tractor , but at least I can wheel it around . :rolleyes: As far as that linkage issue , the PO or someone before him had the arm reversed . It messed me up thinking it was the way I removed it . I finally saw a good YT video that showed it close up . That little arm held me up for a complete day although it was fun having a few beverages while cussing . :big grin:
 
Something like that would be great ! I removed the lock mechanisms on top as before to lift the lid easily . I have to study the bottom end and figure out a nice pivot point and go from there . This " new found " extra space in the garage might get filled up today with this tractor , but at least I can wheel it around . :rolleyes: As far as that linkage issue , the PO or someone before him had the arm reversed . It messed me up thinking it was the way I removed it . I finally saw a good YT video that showed it close up . That little arm held me up for a complete day although it was fun having a few beverages while cussing . :big grin:

I guess it would look better if I had used FROG TAPE instead of 3M - would match the color of the logo.
 
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