Coolant For Old Turret Lathe?

E

ecdez

Forum Guest
Register Today
So I'm finally about ready to run my old turret lathe (more info here http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/bardons-oliver-5.16120/).

Given it's age and the oddball brand there's not much documentation on it but I was able to fine a little on the Bardons and Oliver site. I did find a manual for a very similar model from the same manf and it said you could use high grade water soluble oil coolants or cutting oils. The document references this on page 3 of this file http://www.bardonsoliver.com/pdf/Sa...22UTLInstallationOperationMaintenance2-49.pdf

I'd actually prefer cutting oil but it's got a 10 gallon reservoir and that cutting oil ain't cheap. I'm not a production shop either so it's not like I'm gonna see an instant return on my coolant investment. Given this, I'd like to dilute something down if possible (water soluble).

Several other posts I've read on other sites say not to use soluble oils on the old machines.


Here's my questions.
Anyone here have real world experience with water soluble in an old machine like this?
What cutting fluid would be best for non-stinkin, non-skin irritating and not killing me if I breathe in a few fumes?
 
I don't know about the newer solubles. But I can tell that the older ones would smell like a sewer if left sitting for a while. Maybe put some bricks or rocks in the tank to take up space and just use 5 gallons of cutting oil ?
 
Billh50 said:
Maybe put some bricks or rocks in the tank to take up space and just use 5 gallons of cutting oil ?
Click to expand...

That's a good idea right there; didn't even think of it. I've got a 5g pail of mobil 526 but didn't want to buy another one.
 
Any #19 soluble oil will work fine, the more popular and therefore expensive oils have more antimocrobial additives that will make it last longer before it goes rancid from unuse. At the shop where I work we have a Warner & Swasey #5 turret that is rarely used and the coolant turns nasty after a few months of disuse. Mix the coolant at 10-15% oil, one gallon will give you 80-90 gallons, be aware that the water evaporates quickly making the mix thicker each day.

You do not need to fill the sump, the liquid level just needs to be above the pump pickup, running an open machine with cutting oil is a nasty endeavour at best, soluble oil coolant will be just fine in your application unless you plan on doing a good deal of threading.
 
Being ignorant to all the terminologies of oils and such, #19 would be the name or at least somewhere in the designation right? I sure don't want it to go rancid so I guess the additives are a must.

The sump is two part with an overflow. Apparently any large chunks that make it down there are supposed to settle in the first part and only coolant will overflow to the second part.
 
You can add anti-microbial/fungal to a water base coolent by adding an azole at usually 0.1-0.5%.

These can be purchased through chemical supply houses. Former coolent/lubricant chemist.
 
Unless you're a machine shop, using your lathe 4 hrs a day for heavy threading, etc., use WD40 or LPS#2, or just plain kerosene, applied with a brush.there won't be much accumulation and you'll have the same tool lubrication.
 
ecdez said:
Being ignorant to all the terminologies of oils and such, #19 would be the name or at least somewhere in the designation right? I sure don't want it to go rancid so I guess the additives are a must.

The sump is two part with an overflow. Apparently any large chunks that make it down there are supposed to settle in the first part and only coolant will overflow to the second part.
Click to expand...
I am sure that the #19 has signifigance from somewhwere or somewhen , I do not know where it came from.
In the years that I have been in this game I have found that many manufacturers use this designation for general purpose water soluble coolant. Whatever the number a reputable manufacturer uses for it will work fine in your application barring heavy tap or die threading.
 
T Bredehoft said:
Unless you're a machine shop, using your lathe 4 hrs a day for heavy threading, etc., use WD40 or LPS#2, or just plain kerosene, applied with a brush.there won't be much accumulation and you'll have the same tool lubrication.
Click to expand...

Not in my shop!!!
Non of them provide any kind of cooling capability or promotion of cutting tool life. And WD-40 promotes rust. LPS is too expensive to be using it. Kerosene is too flammable to use in a shop IMO.

Here's a coolant I use in my small shop in my misters and for flood coolant systems. It will not cause rust on bare metal surfaces or have that nasty water soluble coolant rancid smell when left for a long time.

http://www.masterchemical.com/na_en/trim/show_product.php?productid=C210

This one is a synthetic blend and will not go bad in your coolant tank. When I use it on my K O Lee T & C grinder, it improves surface finish by almost double!

Master chemical have other coolants available including water soluble one's too. These coolants are available from most industrial supply houses. I buy mine off of Amazon. A gallon runs about $25-30.
 
Thanks for the responses thus far. As of yet, I've mainly been using the lathe for cut-off operations and small forming tools. I have plans though to use larger forming tools which take quite a hefty cut and generate a lot of heat. This being the plan I think flood is the only way to effectively cool the part and tools.

That C210 looks interesting.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top